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can you clean a audi oil separator

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Thread Tools Show Printable Version 11-16-2017 09:17 AM #1 WhiteWhiteS7 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Dec 05 2016AZ Member # 387567 Location Westminster, CO My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 HOW TO: Oil Separator R&R Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now! I wrote this guide on how to replace your oil separator as this appears to be a persistent issue on 2013 S6/S7 cars, particularly ones that are just outside warranty, like mine (53k miles). The symptoms are described in TSB 2040644/8, detailed below from the erWin website:Instructions for use Please note:This TSH article may be used only if the equipmentcombinations, on-board control units and event memoryentries specified below apply to the vehicle.Diagnostic trouble codesDiagnostic address Diagnostic trouble code Fault symptom Storage state0001 - Engine Control Module 1 P227900: Intake Air System Leak Intermittent0001 - Engine Control Module 1 P050700: Idle Control System RPM Higher than Expected Intermittent________________________________________Technical Service Bulletin Transaction No.: 2040644/817 MIL on; whistling noises from engine compartment (DTC P2279 and/or P0507) Release date: May 25, 2017ConditionREVISION HISTORYRevision Date Purpose8 - Revised header data (Added engine code)7 02/14/2017 Revised Required Parts and Tools (Updated part number)6 01/19/2017 Revised Warranty (Updated time units and Claim Type)• A metallic whistling or grinding sound is heard from the engine compartment when the vehicle is at idle speed.• The sound usually only occurs when the engine is warm.• The MIL is sporadically on.The following DTCs are stored in the engine control module (ECM), J623 (address word 0001):• DTC P2279 (Intake air system leak)• DTC P0507 (Idle control system rpm higher than expected) Technical BackgroundA leak in the crankcase breather module (pressure regulating valve) can cause this condition.Production SolutionFabric reinforced internal membrane of crankcase breather module.Service1. Perform both of the following checks before proceeding:• Compare the sound of the vehicle to the sound in the video located at: https://audi-external.kzoplatform.co...swf/player/311 (Figure 1).• Open the filler cap to check whether the sound is affected when the filler cap is open. Figure 1. QR code for viewing the video with a QR code reader on phones and tablets. Alternatively, the video can be accessed through computer internet browsers at the link provided in this bulletin. 2. If the sound of the vehicle matches the sound in the video and the sound is affected when the filler cap is opened, replace the oil separator breather module.WarrantyClaim Type: • 110 up to 48 Months/50,000 Miles.• G10 for CPO Covered Vehicles – Verify Owner.• If vehicle is outside any warranty, this Technical Service Bulletin is informational only.Service Number: 1726Damage Code: 0050Labor Operations: For A8 and S8: Oil separator breather remove reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU Air intake distributor remove reinstall 2446 1921 470 TU For S6 and S7: Oil separator breather remove reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU Air intake distributor remove reinstall 2446 1921 600 TU Additional labor for adjustment of ACC, top view camera, and night vision, if necessary based on vehicle equipment See Elsa See Elsa For RS7: Oil separator breather remove reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU Refrigerant drain fill 8703 1750 40 TU Air intake distributor remove reinstall 2446 1923 690 TU Additional labor for adjustment of ACC, top view camera, and night vision, if necessary based on vehicle equipment See Elsa See ElsaDiagnostic Time: GFF – Checking and clearing fault codes included in existing labor operations 0150 0000 10 TU Road test prior to service procedure 0121 0002 10 TU Road test after service procedure 0121 0004 10 TU Technical diagnosis at dealer's discretion(Refer to Section 2.2.1.2 and Audi Warranty Online for DADP allowance details)Claim Comment: As per TSB #2040644/8All warranty claims submitted for payment must be in accordance with the Audi Warranty Policies and Procedures Manual. Claims are subject to review or audit by Audi Warranty.Required Parts and ToolsPart Number Part Description Quantity079103542E Oil separator 1079129717J Gasket intercooler left 1079129717K Gasket intercooler right 1N 90442501 Retaining clip 2N 90489801 Retaining clip 2N 90409501 Retaining clip 2079145818 Gasket throttle body 1079145417B Gasket recirculation valve 2WHT 001011 O-ring 1G 013A8J1G Coolant additive 1Outside material Distilled water (obtain locally) As needed(Max $10.00)Additional InformationAll parts and service references provided in this TSB (2040644) are subject to change and/or removal. Always check with your Parts Department and service manuals for the latest information. ©2017 Audi of America, Inc. All rights reserved. Information contained in this document is based on the latest information available at the time of printing and is subject to the copyright and other intellectual property rights of Audi of America, Inc., its affiliated companies and its licensors. All rights are reserved to make changes at any time without notice. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, nor may these materials be modified or reposted to other sites without the prior expressed written permission of the publisher.Based on the TSB and other threads about the parts required to perform this job, expect to spend around $500 for the parts listed below:- 1x 079103542E – SEPARATOR- 1x 079145818 – THROTTLE BODY SEAL- 1x 079129717K – PASSENGER SIDE GASKET- 1x 079129717J – DRIVER'S SIDE GASKET- 2x 079145417B – BYPASS VALVE SEAL- 2x N90489801 – CLIP- 1x N90409501 – CLIP- 3x G13 Coolant (1 GALLON)Tools: I ended up using the following tools for the project. Not too many considering all that you are removing to gain access to the culprit, but a couple were new to me.- 7mm nut driver- Torx bits (T20, T30)- ¼" drive extensions- Hose removal tools- Body clip removal tools- Pliers for removing clamps- Hose clamp pliers (for crimping one-time use clamps)- Coolant filling system (I used the Schwaben one from ECS)- Triple square bit for removing undertray- Mirror- RampsStep 1: Get your car on the ramps and remove the engine cover, airbox, and airbox-to-turbo inlet accordion hoses. Insert shop towels into turbo inlets to ensure no dirt/debris gets into them:Step 2: Use compressed air to blow off the throttle body area of debris. Using a T30 Torx, remove the three bolts from the driver's side bypass valve-to-throttle body connection (The longer bolt goes on the outside):Step 3: Do the same for the passenger side. Insert shop towel to ensure no debris goes into the holes:Step 4: Using a 7mm nut driver, loosen the clamps on the turbo-to-throttle body tubes.Step 5: Disconnect the black and brown connectors from the bypass valve assembly on each side:Step 6: Using a screwdriver and some anger, remove the clamp from the turbo inlet-to-bypass valve on the driver's side. Then, remove the bypass valve assembly from the driver's side:Step 7: Remove the clamp holding the passenger side wastegate hose to the intercooler. Remove the hose and push it off to the side:Step 8: Using a T30 Torx bit and extension, remove the 6 screws holding the throttle body to the intercooler:Step 9: Using a hose tool to wedge under the hose, loosen the turbo-to-throttle body hoses. Push the throttle body aft a bit, then lift up over the little lip on the intercooler, then forward to remove the throttle body. Before you can remove the throttle body, there are two sensors on the underside. Pull the grey tabs up, then push in to release both connections. The one with the green wire goes on the passenger side, brown wire on the driver's side):Step 10: Remove the two 5mm bolts holding the driver's side turbo inlet to the turbo.Step 11: Using a screwdriver and a bit more anger, loosen the tube connecting the driver's side turbo inlet to the oil separator. Remove the tube and the entire bypass valve/turbo inlet assembly should be free: Step 12: UNDERSIDE – Using a triple-square bit, Philips screwdriver, and T20 Torx, start removing the undertray directly below the engine.Step 13: Using a T20 Torx and plastic rivet removal tool, remove the two plastic rivets and 8-ish screws that hold the front wheel liner to the bumper and fender. Do this on both sides.Step 14: Using a T30 Torx, remove the four screws holding the bumper undertray to the radiator support.Step 15: Remove the bolts that hold the bumper to the lock carrier between the grill and headlight. One on each side:Step 16: Gently pull on the rear edge of the bumper where it meets the fender outwards, until it becomes dislodged. Do this on both sides.Step 17: Using a body removal tool, lift up on the two plastic rivets near the center hood latch. Remove the cover to expose the area behind the grill.Step 18: Disconnect the front camera, night vision, and some electronics box from behind the Audi emblem. Slowly lift and pull forward the bumper. Exposing a gap between the bumper and headlights, reach down and disconnect the ACC sensors on each side, as well as a connector below where the passenger headlight was. Finally, with the help of a friend, remove the blue clip from the headlight and night vision washers, then unplug the hose, attempting poorly to cap off the torrent of washer fluid going onto your shoe. Remove the bumper:Step 19: Disconnect the A/C pressure sensor, ambient air temp sensor, and both horns (one per side). Dislodge the retaining clips from the crash beam and ensure that the front wiring harness is free from the crash beam. Loop it up the driver's side fender and out of the way:Step 20: Using a T30 Torx, loosen the 4 bolts holding the driver's side headlight to the chassis, removing the 5th screw completely in the middle. The headlight retainers have level adjusters built into them, so minimizing the bolt turning will ensure you don't need to have your headlights realigned. Finally, unclip the headlights and remove them.Step 21: Using a 13mm socket and wrench, loosen the four bolts holding the crash beam to the frame rails. Use a dead blow hammer to punch out the beam.Step 22: Drain the coolant. Look for the drain plug in-line with one of the coolant hoses in front of the driver's side wheel. About 2 gallons will come out. Be sure to completely remove the plug for faster draining and open the expansion tank lid for venting:Step 23: Loosen the outer brackets from the lock carrier to the fender support thing on each side:Step 24: Unplug this near the driver's side headlight. Might be for the fans, not sure:Step 25: Use a small flatblade screwdriver and pop off the two clips that hold the hood release cable to the lock carrier:Part 2 coming…… Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 05:23 AM. 11-16-2017 09:40 AM #2 WhiteWhiteS7 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Dec 05 2016AZ Member # 387567 Location Westminster, CO My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Step 26: Using a T30 Torx, remove the bolt that attaches the upper lock carrier to the fender support on each side:Step 27: Using a 16mm socket with extension bar, remove the 3 bolts on each side that attach the lock carrier to the frame rails. While the lock carrier won't fall forward due to the radiator hoses still being attached, I wanted to make sure it was supported and not dangling from any hoses/wires. Use a jack stand or two to support it and slide it forward:Step 28: Take a break, open a beer.Step 29: Using a T20 Torx, remove the air intake scoop. One screw is hidden behind the radiator deflector:Step 30: Remove the coolant hose clamps on the intercooler. Disconnect the hoses and push them off to the side:Step 31: Disconnect the three hoses going to the coolant expansion tank and remove the tank. I mainly did this to gain access to the spark plugs (highly recommended during this repair).Step 32: Remove the clamps holding the second air injection system actuators hoses and remove the hose. The piece that connects to the air pump is disconnected by squeezing the top and bottom of the plastic coupler:Step 33: Using a T30 Torx and extension, remove the bolt holding the coolant crossover tube on the driver's side head. Remove the clamp on the passenger side and remove the pipe altogether:Step 34: Disconnect the vacuum hose on the passenger side running along the coolant crossover pipe and push it out of the way on the driver's side:Step 35: Dislodge some vacuum lines off of the intake runners right in front of the intercooler:Step 36: Disconnect the post-intercooler intake air temp sensor from the passenger side of the intercooler:Step 37: Using a T30 Torx, remove the 6 bolts (3 per side) that connect the intercooler runners to the intake manifolds. One is on the top, another is on the outside bottom, and one is about 3 inches inward from the second bolt. A carrier will come out with the bolt, don't worry about it:Step 38: Using a 5mm Allen with extension, remove the three bolts that hold the intercooler to the block on either side. It looked like there should be a 4th bolt on the driver's front, but there wasn't:Step 39: Time to get this sucker out. First, pull on the intercooler assembly to dislodge it from the intake manifolds and the oil separator ports. I gently used a pry bar against the passenger turbo housing, very little effort needed. Next, slide it forward until it starts to touch the radiator. Then, lift up and out, as the tabs that held it to the block are now aligned with the exhaust manifold reliefs to lift the assembly out. Coolant may pour out.Step 40: To replace the oil separator, first remove the two screws that hold it to the intercooler. Next, use a screwdriver to pry the tabs that keep it from sliding off the intercooler connection. Then, just remove and replace it. I cleaned up the oil ports on the block, and lubricated all of the new seals with new motor oil to ease installation.Step 41: Remove and replace the intercooler runner to intake manifold gaskets. Install the intercooler. Remove and replace the throttle body gasket, bypass valve gaskets, and the two clamps you destroyed on the inlet tube and separator. The one o-ring is for the hard coolant crossover pipe removed in Step 33.The Rest of the Story: Installation is the reverse of the above. Torque specs are below:- Intercooler runners to intake manifolds - 9 Nm- Intercooler to block - 9 Nm- Hard coolant crossover pipe - 9 Nm- Lock carrier frame to chassis - 55 Nm- Lock carrier top to fender - 10 Nm- Impact beam - 20 Nm (Tighten in this order, facing the beam from the front: 1-2-4-3)- Throttle body to intercooler - 5 Nm- Bypass valve bolts - 9 NmOnce filled up with coolant, use the coolant vacuum tool to pull a vacuum on the system and charge it with fresh coolant. Afterwards, you are supposed to remove the firewall cover and remove the passenger side heater core hose to purge the air from the heater core. Then follow this to ensure adequate coolant circulation:Duration Engine RPM ConditionsFour minutes 3500/RPM • A/C system "OFF", the LED in the AC button doesnot turn on• Heater on "HI", blower speed as low as possible (=0)Until temperature indicatordisplays 90 °C(194 °F) and both hosesto the heater corefor the heater are warmIdle • A/C system "OFF"• Heater "HI"2 Minutes 2000 RPM • A/C system "OFF"• Heater "HI" Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 05:56 AM. 11-16-2017 11:37 AM #3 kpriv View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Jan 10 2017AZ Member # 390391 Location CA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Agreed -- thank you very much. Saving this so I can tackle the project in another 2-3 years when mine craps out!Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Last edited by kpriv; 11-18-2017 at 10:33 AM. 2016 Daytona Gray S7. Black optics sport pkg. Stage 3, eurocode stuff, cosmetic stuff. 11-16-2017 11:53 AM #4 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Subscribed! I'm sure I will have to do this at some point in the future. I hit 75k on Monday, so it could be soon. 2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 11-16-2017 12:16 PM #5 flyfishing View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Sep 28 2009AZ Member # 48463 Location suburb My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by RedheadNV Subscribed! I'm sure I will have to do this at some point in the future. I hit 75k on Monday, so it could be soon. 2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic mine just failed at 65k ish miles. Audi S7 stage 2Audi allroad stage 3Audi q5 stage 1 11-16-2017 04:50 PM #6 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by flyfishing mine just failed at 65k ish miles. My turbos were replaced at 62k under warranty, they may have done the PCV then. I have misplaced the folder of records that I got from the original owner. They did over $14k of work, but didn't do the ECU recall though. So who really knows what they did till I find the folder.2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 11-16-2017 06:17 PM #7 ehofmann View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Dec 22 2014AZ Member # 305101 Location Colorado My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Mad props for posting this! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 11-17-2017 08:47 AM #8 WhiteWhiteS7 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Dec 05 2016AZ Member # 387567 Location Westminster, CO My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by Lone Wolf Holy cow, what an awesome post and writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Since this is such a common failure on early 4.0Ts (2013), the admins should make this a sticky.How much oil did you see in your turbos, TB hoses, etc? It's hard to tell from the photos. My driver's side turbo had a lot of oil in it, as this is the turbo that connects to the oil separator. Passenger side was squeaky clean.Hoses had a slight residue in them, but nothing I haven't seen before in a turbocharged car.I was pleasantly surprised at how little oil and grime there was in the intake manifold. I figured being a direct-inject car with air injection, there would be a fair amount of carbon build up and grime, but it was very clean on both sides. Perhaps the build-up would occur further down the tract near the valves, but I didn't put a borescope down there to check it out.On a related note, I changed my spark plugs too. At 53k miles, they needed it. Very dark, but with good tips still. Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 09:47 AM. 11-20-2017 05:52 AM #9 JimmyBones View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Apr 03 2010AZ Member # 57098 Location Northern Virginia My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Typical Audi. They have never made a good PCV system and I wonder if you guys can do the normal test that most people do for the 2.0T. They test it by having the engine run at idle and then trying to open the oil filler cap. If the cap is being sucked on and is difficult to get off or the engine stalls/runs really bad without smoothing out after like 10 seconds when the cap is removed then the PCV is bad. 11-22-2017 07:51 PM #10 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 HOW TO: Oil Separator R&R So....mine failed tonight. I guess I jinxed myself. I work 7 days a week right now, but I have the next 2 day off. I don't have a coolant vacuum tool that fits a VAG car. Hopefully the dealer has the parts on Friday and I can find a refill tool in town.2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 11-22-2017 08:28 PM #11 kpriv View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Jan 10 2017AZ Member # 390391 Location CA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Depending on your timeframe - I ordered one of the airlift vacuum tools from amazon. Might not fit your schedule if you're trying to do it this weekend though. I went to a couple local auto parts stores plus big box and none of them had it, so amazon was my quickest option. Pretty nice tool to have now that it's in my garage though. Sent from my iPhone using Audizine 2016 Daytona Gray S7. Black optics sport pkg. Stage 3, eurocode stuff, cosmetic stuff. 11-22-2017 09:33 PM #12 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 I went ahead and ordered a complete new Astro kit from Amazon. It will be here Saturday. I'll have it apart tomorrow, and hopefully the dealer will have everything in stock Friday. 2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 11-23-2017 02:39 AM #13 A6sport View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Mar 11 2007AZ Member # 16309My Garage A8L, A7plus stage II A6 PES SC, A5 APR stage III, TT APR stage I Location Twin Cities, MN My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Wow, great, detailed write up. I'm sure many 4.0t folks will be thankful. 2012 A7Plus Stage II 2013 A8L2010 A5 2.0T k04 Stage III2002 TT 225 Roadster APR Stage I1998 A6 2.8 PES SC 11-27-2017 12:19 PM #14 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Well, the dealer was closed for the 4-day weekend. I finally got the car apart last night. We have had a few big storms here, and I lost basically my entire fence from the wind. Dealer won't have the parts till tomorrow or Wednesday. I guess I'll just have to start rebuilding my fence if the weather allows.2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 01-11-2018 05:53 PM #15 Prh View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Two Rings Join Date Mar 28 2015AZ Member # 323364My Garage John Deere Location Northern VA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Darn it. This just happened to me after getting 55k service! Stay tuned. 2014 S6 Black - APR Stage 2 ECU TCU, AWE Exhaust, HRE-FF01, Black Optics, P3, ALP, Uniden R3, Blackvue, 034, carbon diffuser, carbon mirror covers, Roc-Euro intake, ECS Tuning sways 01-11-2018 10:16 PM #16 elptxjc View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Three Rings Join Date Jan 02 2018AZ Member # 411920 Location Deleted My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Holy crap! What the hell was Audi thinking of not making it easier to replace a PCV valve? Geez. Hope I don't have to deal with this on my 2018, but doubt I'll keep it that long anyway. He he. Hey, how do you know the PCV crapped out? Usually they just let a lot of oil into the intake, but there's no way to know except by checking. Does this car throw a CEL? Thx. 01-12-2018 08:47 PM #17 Hofahome View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Jan 26 2015AZ Member # 311551My Garage 2010 MDX Advance pkg, a workbench Location CO My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by elptxjc Holy crap! What the hell was Audi thinking of not making it easier to replace a PCV valve? Geez. Hope I don't have to deal with this on my 2018, but doubt I'll keep it that long anyway. He he. Hey, how do you know the PCV crapped out? Usually they just let a lot of oil into the intake, but there's no way to know except by checking. Does this car throw a CEL? Thx. See the top part of his writeup. Usually people notice it is failing by the sound it makes. Something akin to a belt slipping combined with a train running over cats. kinda hard to miss to anyone in a 1sq mi area. This usually happens before you throw a CEL, at least a hard code. -------2014 S6 - Stage 3, AMS downpipes with custom exhaust2013 S4 - Dual Pulley e85 - sold 01-13-2018 09:47 AM #18 elptxjc View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Three Rings Join Date Jan 02 2018AZ Member # 411920 Location Deleted My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Yeah, missed that. Thanks brother. Wonder what causes the noise if there're no moving parts. Hmmm. A PCV valve is supposed to be just a simple part that only allows oil vapor to recycle back to the intake while keeping condensed oil inside the pan. Guess Audi wanted to do that differently too. Germans. Ha ha. Hope they improved it with my car. Thanks again for the explanation. 01-13-2018 10:30 PM #19 OlyS6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Four Rings Join Date Nov 22 2016AZ Member # 386370 Location Olympia, WA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Luckily for newer owners (MY1017 and newer) Audi went with the 'E' version that is on the RS7, which hasn't reported any problems (yet) MY2016 cars have the 'D' version. I'm unaware of the 'D' version causing problems, but for anyone in there anyway )swapping turbos for instance), its likely a good idea to swap it out for the E version as long as you're in there.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE touring exhaust| APR downpipes| Eventuri intake| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2. 01-13-2018 10:31 PM #20 OlyS6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Four Rings Join Date Nov 22 2016AZ Member # 386370 Location Olympia, WA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Many thanks to WhiteWhiteS7 for this thread. It helped immensely in doing my turbo swap, since you have to do all of this to get decent access to the turbos anyway.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE touring exhaust| APR downpipes| Eventuri intake| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2. 05-31-2018 02:01 PM #21 smcarlisle View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Active Member One Ring Join Date Aug 28 2017AZ Member # 405902 Location Harvard MA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Mine just went bad at 45K, I put a small pc of cloth under one area of the oil cap to let a small amount of air in, noise goes away. Waiting for an appointment at the dealer to fix this. 05-31-2018 02:08 PM #22 smcarlisle View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Active Member One Ring Join Date Aug 28 2017AZ Member # 405902 Location Harvard MA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 How much does the RS7 turbo swap cost? Is this a good option if my 2016 S6 turbos go bad? I have a 100K CPO car, so hope they are covered....dealer probably wont upgrade if you pay the difference I am guessing. 05-31-2018 03:08 PM #23 OlyS6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Four Rings Join Date Nov 22 2016AZ Member # 386370 Location Olympia, WA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Parts are between $5-$6k total for RS7 turbos, hardware, and gaskets, although you'd also need to make sure you have upgraded downpipes and intercooler (another $3K-$5k depending on what you go with), and tune (APR TCU for RS and Stage 3 ECU is about $3400 retail).If you are under warranty, dealer would only swap in new S6 turbos- they wouldn't do anything that would then invalidate any further warranty claims, which this would.So minimum $12k to go from stock to Stage 3, not including labor. 2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE touring exhaust| APR downpipes| Eventuri intake| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2. 06-01-2018 06:54 AM #24 dab View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Jul 27 2013AZ Member # 119744 Location indianapolis/indiana My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 my car is in the dealership now with this being replaced. They called me yesterday to tell me this is not covered by CPO, what the hell???? The dealership is talking with Audi to get it covered. 2003 RS6 apr stage 1 and tiptronic, apr divertors, clear bra, yellow konis SOLD2014 S7 audi exclusive edition 1 havana black metallic exterior/havana brown interior APR stage 1 ECU/TCU Total Loss Wreck2016 RS7 Mythos Black Metallic, Carbon Optic, Drivers Assist, Sports Exhaust, Apr Stage 1 06-07-2018 11:20 AM #25 Bassler View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Apr 17 2016AZ Member # 371937My Garage '14 S6, '12 STi, '16 XC90 Location North Shore, MA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by dab my car is in the dealership now with this being replaced. They called me yesterday to tell me this is not covered by CPO, what the hell???? The dealership is talking with Audi to get it covered. where did you end up at with having it covered? My car is at the dealer now having the coolant lines done and i had to pull strings to get that done because my VIN was out of the range for replacement. I'm having them do the PCV and oil line screen while they're there but was told neither would ever be covered by CPO as they are excluded as wear items. I'm having it done regardless but wonder if you ended up getting it covered? 2014 S6 Prestige DD/Kid Hauler | Glacier White, Lunar Silver & Aluminum/Black Wood | Black Optic | DA / Innovation / B&O APR DPs | Milltek resonated Valvesonic | EPL Stage 2 ECU/TCU | RocEuro | Forgeline 21s | Eurocode sways/links/AK/inserts | RS6 grill | Deval diffuser | XPEL/Opti/35% Llumar 06-12-2018 07:10 AM #26 dab View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Jul 27 2013AZ Member # 119744 Location indianapolis/indiana My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by Bassler where did you end up at with having it covered? My car is at the dealer now having the coolant lines done and i had to pull strings to get that done because my VIN was out of the range for replacement. I'm having them do the PCV and oil line screen while they're there but was told neither would ever be covered by CPO as they are excluded as wear items. I'm having it done regardless but wonder if you ended up getting it covered? It was covered and I noticed looking at the paperwork that there is a tsb 2040644/10 for replacement of the oil separator so try that with the dealer and see what they say. It is bullshit that this isn't covered with this tsb out there. BTW Audi of Indianapolis did the work. 2003 RS6 apr stage 1 and tiptronic, apr divertors, clear bra, yellow konis SOLD2014 S7 audi exclusive edition 1 havana black metallic exterior/havana brown interior APR stage 1 ECU/TCU Total Loss Wreck2016 RS7 Mythos Black Metallic, Carbon Optic, Drivers Assist, Sports Exhaust, Apr Stage 1 07-30-2018 07:35 AM #27 benvickers38 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Active Member One Ring Join Date Jul 29 2018AZ Member # 423296 Location Palmdale, CA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Why take the front end of the car off? Hi, amazing post, thank you. Why do you have to remove the whole front bumper for this? Is it because the radiator fans & grill are in the way? Thanks again!--Ben 07-30-2018 08:24 AM #28 ichi d View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date May 10 2013AZ Member # 114947 Location T.O. My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 This seems like an expensive job if you were to take it to the dealer to have it done. Anyone know the cost if it done at the dealer? C7S1 07-30-2018 02:13 PM #29 dudley123 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Dec 26 2013AZ Member # 137195 Location Newcastle, WA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 I've seen quote from 1800 all the way up to 3k..^^ 08-01-2018 09:54 PM #30 benvickers38 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Active Member One Ring Join Date Jul 29 2018AZ Member # 423296 Location Palmdale, CA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 I was quoted 9.5 hours of labor and about $250 in parts - $1350 total. That was at a private mechanic. I'm just doing it myself - if I can figure out how to DIY the coolant bleed. 08-02-2018 10:37 AM #31 wwhan View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Mar 26 2010AZ Member # 56662 Location US My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by benvickers38 I was quoted 9.5 hours of labor and about $250 in parts - $1350 total. That was at a private mechanic. I'm just doing it myself - if I can figure out how to DIY the coolant bleed. Wow, that is a cheap hourly rate. 2016 S6 Sport 08-02-2018 12:38 PM #32 kpriv View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Three Rings Join Date Jan 10 2017AZ Member # 390391 Location CA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by benvickers38 I was quoted 9.5 hours of labor and about $250 in parts - $1350 total. That was at a private mechanic. I'm just doing it myself - if I can figure out how to DIY the coolant bleed. Get an airlift bleeder. I tried to do it manually when I put in my AMS hx. Huge pain in the butt. Re-did it later with the right tool (the airlift) and it worked great — best $100 I've spent on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Audizine 2016 Daytona Gray S7. Black optics sport pkg. Stage 3, eurocode stuff, cosmetic stuff. 08-04-2018 08:35 AM #33 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Well, my separator failed again. As I have stated, when I purchased the "E" version back in November, Audi kept sending me the "D" version in the box. I went around with them for several days. I think I went through around 5-6 separators, and every one was a "D" version. Now this week it actually cracked on a seam. You can hear the "sucking" from inside the car. I guess I'm changing it out again...2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 08-04-2018 02:12 PM #34 Street Nasty View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Jan 20 2009AZ Member # 37672My Garage B5_S4_Avant_KO4s Location NYC My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by RedheadNV Well, my separator failed again. As I have stated, when I purchased the "E" version back in November, Audi kept sending me the "D" version in the box. I went around with them for several days. I think I went through around 5-6 separators, and every one was a "D" version. Now this week it actually cracked on a seam. You can hear the "sucking" from inside the car. I guess I'm changing it out again...2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic Order it from here: https://www.audiusaparts.com/That is where I bought mine.Sent from my iPhone using Audizine 08-05-2018 07:35 AM #35 OlyS6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Senior Member Four Rings Join Date Nov 22 2016AZ Member # 386370 Location Olympia, WA My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by benvickers38 Hi, amazing post, thank you. Why do you have to remove the whole front bumper for this? Is it because the radiator fans & grill are in the way? Thanks again!--Ben Yes, the radiator assembly is in the way of the bolts you need to get to in order to remove the charge air cooler housing. This housing needs to be removed because the oil separator is bolted directly underneath it.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE touring exhaust| APR downpipes| Eventuri intake| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2. 08-06-2018 06:24 PM #36 RedheadNV View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Apr 05 2017AZ Member # 397133 Location Reno, Nv My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by Street Nasty Order it from here: https://www.audiusaparts.com/That is where I bought mine.Sent from my iPhone using Audizine I went ahead and ordered the parts from there. The Audi dealer wouldn't warranty any. They said that I'm "not an authorized installer". That's funny, I've been installing their parts for 12 years at the shop and never had an issue with warranty. It might be because they kept giving me the relabeled boxes.... Who knows. Parts should be here in a couple of days. They didn't have everything in stock.2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic 08-07-2018 09:34 AM #37 ArizonaA6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Jul 31 2016AZ Member # 377508 Location NC My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 I just bought everything to do the repair on my 2013 S6 (63k miles). I ordered from www.genuineaudiparts.com They have a pretty good price on all parts. All said I had about $400 in parts (oil seperator came in at $271.56) pretty fair pricing. 08-08-2018 01:16 PM #38 ArizonaA6 View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Established Member Two Rings Join Date Jul 31 2016AZ Member # 377508 Location NC My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 little timelapse video of the install of the oil separator.Huge Thanks to the WhiteWhiteS7 for this post! It made this process much easier than expected. I'm going to dissect the screaming oil separator tomorrow and I'll post up my findings if anyone is interested. Also, the coolant vacuum tool is freakin' fantastic. Sucked up two gallons of Pentofrost E in short order. Only had to top off a little after a drive.Get yourself a cheap borescope for when you drop a screw down into the bowels of hell and need to see where it went to get it back. :) Last edited by ArizonaA6; 08-08-2018 at 06:19 PM. 08-17-2018 07:00 AM #39 TommyGun View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Active Member Two Rings Join Date Oct 14 2013AZ Member # 124912 My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Hey all, just purchased a '13 s6 with 48k miles and of course after 500 miles the PCV bit the dust. Going to get all the parts required and tackle this myself. Question for you all - what else should I do 'while I'm in there'? I'll do spark plugs for sure, and was thinking that I'll do the latest rev of the oil strainer screen for the turbos (and check the turbo's health). Also thinking of replacing coolant lines for turbos, since they are cheap and it will never be easier than when I have everything apart. Any thoughts are appreciated! 08-17-2018 09:52 AM #40 wwhan View Profile View Forum Posts View Blog Entries View Articles Veteran Member Four Rings Join Date Mar 26 2010AZ Member # 56662 Location US My Photo Gallery: 0My Classifieds: 0 Originally Posted by TommyGun Hey all, just purchased a '13 s6 with 48k miles and of course after 500 miles the PCV bit the dust. Going to get all the parts required and tackle this myself. Question for you all - what else should I do 'while I'm in there'? I'll do spark plugs for sure, and was thinking that I'll do the latest rev of the oil strainer screen for the turbos (and check the turbo's health). Also thinking of replacing coolant lines for turbos, since they are cheap and it will never be easier than when I have everything apart. Any thoughts are appreciated! Maybe replace the check valve in addition to the oil strainer screen, since you are down that far already.Also note from Turbo TSB:'Check the oil filter for correct installation and correct filter part number 079115561J. If the oil filter is not centrally fitted, the engine oil may not be filtered, entering the oil supply of the turbocharger due to the crooked position of the oil filter element.- Check the installation of the oil filter bypass valve according to service measure 17F2.- Check the oil supply line for through flow and oil deposits.- Check the oil drain hoses for through flow and oil deposits.'Here is a parts list from the Turbo fail TSB # 2044640/2 November 21, 2017Required Parts and Tools Part Number Part Description Quantity 079103175C Check valve 1 079115175G Oil strainer 1 079103161Q Cover Gasket 1 N 90303801 Lower oil supply o-rings 9x1.5 black 2 N 91056801 Upper oil supply o-rings 12x2 black 2 WHT006901A Oil return o-rings 14.5x2 2 N 90465003 Water tube o-rings 23x2.6 3 N 90409501 Clamp breather hoses 4 079129717K Intercooler housing gasket right side 1 079129717J Intercooler housing gasket left side 1 079145818 Throttle body gasket 1 079103583 Breather seals 3 N 90686902 Spring clips 23x12 breather hoses 4 WHT006335A Turbo coolant pipe o-rings lines (blue 2.0mm) Note: Installed seals are based on which pipes are installed (see TSB 2036167). 4 WHT006537 Turbo coolant pipe o-rings lines (black 2.8mm) Note: Installed seals are based on which pipes are installed (see TSB 2036167). 4 WHT001011A Coolant supply pipe lower o-rings yellow 12.2x1.65 2 Order by VIN Left turbocharger 1 Order by VIN Right turbocharger 1 WHT005529 Inlet pipe o-rings 2 079253039M Exhaust manifold gaskets 2 N 90894601 Manifold nuts M8 16 G 052112A3 Hot bolt paste 170G 1 4G0253115D Turbocharger outlet gaskets 2 N 91153902 Turbocharger studs 10 N 91130802 Manifold nuts 10 N 0138495 Drain plug gasket 1 079198405D Oil filter kit 1 G 013A8J1G Coolant additive 1 Outside material Distilled water (obtained locally) Shop supply Tool Number Tool Description 3371 Gauge – Gap adjustment tool V.A.G 1342 Oil pressure gauge kit V.A.G 1274/8 Adapter V.A.G 1274/10 Adapter VAS 6096 Cooling system charge unit T10007 A Refractometer Approved battery charger 2016 S6 Sport Page 1 of 3 123 Last Jump to page: Quick Navigation C7 A6/S6/RS6 A7/S7/RS7Return Top Site Areas Settings Private Messages Subscriptions Who's Online Search Forums Forums Home Forums Array Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del.icio.us StumbleUpon Google Posting Permissions You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts   BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off Forum Rules Contact Us Forum Home Archive Top All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:47 PM.     © 2001-2019 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.Wayne R. Dempsey Time: 2 hrs Tab: $110 Talent: *** Applicable Models: Porsche 981 Boxster (2013-16)Porsche 981 Boxster Black Edition (2016)Porsche 981 Boxster GTS (2015-16)Porsche 981 Boxster S (2013-16)Porsche 986 Boxster (1997-04)Porsche 986 Boxster S (2000-04)Porsche 987 Boxster (2005-12)Porsche 987 Boxster S (2005-12)more... Parts Required: New air-oil separator Hot Tip: Check the oil cap for an unusual amount of crankcase vacuum Performance Gain: No more oil screen behind you Complementary Modification: Change the oil This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster. The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 950 full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.   Need to buy parts for this project?Click here to order! The engine air-oil separator is an emissions device located on the top right rear corner of the engine. The separator is responsible for collecting residual gases and vapors contained inside the crankcase and funneling them back into the intake manifold where they can be burned in the combustion chamber. This reduces the overall emissions of the engine.When the separator fails, you will begin to see a large increase in the overall vacuum in the engine crankcase. In the most extreme cases, the air-oil separator fails to separate the oil from the air, and oil is then sucked into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake system is not healthy for the engine and it can foul spark plugs and destroy catalytic converters at the very least. The failure of the air-oil separator is often (but not always) accompanied by huge amounts of white smoke exiting the vehicle's exhaust and a generally poor running engine. You may experience a check engine light (CEL) as the oil being drawn into the intake can affect the mixture level. The oil cap may be very difficult to remove when the engine is running due to high vacuum levels. In addition, you may hear a high-pitched squeal from the engine when it's running: this is caused by air being sucked in past the crankcase seal due to the extreme vacuum inside the case.The proper method to test for the failure of the unit is to measure the engine crankcase vacuum with a slack tube manometer. Normal crankcase pressure, measured at the oil filler cap ranges from about 4-7 inches of water (drill a hole in the top of an old oil filler cap and attach the gauge there). When the air-oil separator fails, the intake manifold vacuum will draw into the crankcase and the levels will reach 9-12 inches or more. If you don't have a slack tub manometer (most of us don't), then you can use a standard vacuum gauge and/or get a rough feel for the level of vacuum pulled by comparing it to a normal running car.If you're still not sure, you can take a closer look at the hose that connects the air-oil separator to the intake manifold (yellow arrow, Figure 2). If the unit is failing, then there will be a significant amount of oil or residue in this tube. If the car is running rough, then removing this tube and blocking off both ends should disable the system and restore previous performance. This is not a long-term fix, but instead a short-term diagnosis step to use before you replace the air-oil separator.There is also a motorsports air-oil separator available that you can use on dedicated track cars (2003 and later). This special separator is designed to work with the higher g-forces that are exhibited with high speed track driving. If your engine has a lot of blue smoke exiting the tailpipe after driving on the track, you may need this upgrade. See the 101Projects.com website for a copy of the Porsche bulletin explaining this upgrade. Figure 1 Shown here is a new air-oil separator unit for an early Boxster. The purpose of the separator is to separate fuel vapors from the crankcase and funnel them back into the intake. The air-oil separator is an emissions device, and although its presence doesn't hurt performance, if it fails or if one or more of the vacuum line connections develop a leak, it can negatively affect engine performance. There have been many updates to the unit over the years. The later-style units are a direct bolt-on replacement, but the hose that connects the air-oil separator to the throttle body has been updated as well (the old one is a little too short). If you are replacing your air-oil separator with a new one, be sure to install the updated connecting hose as well. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 2 With the engine compartment lid open, it's fairly easy to gain access to the air-oil separator connections. The green arrow points to the separator. The yellow arrow points to the connection that leads to the intake. This is where vacuum is pulled from the intake manifold. Simply squeeze this connector and pull it off to disconnect it. The purple arrow points to the somewhat hidden flexible hose at the bottom of the separator. I found this connection easiest to disconnect from below (see Figure 3). Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 3 With the car on jack stands, you can poke your head up into the chassis and get a better view of the separator. The green arrow points to the separator itself. The purple arrow points to the quick-disconnect vacuum line that leads to the opposite camshaft housing. The red arrow shows the right side of the transmission. The light blue arrow shows the flexible hose that connects the separator to the right side camshaft housing. I recommend replacing this hose along with the separator. Removing the little spring clamps that attach this hose is probably the most difficult part of the entire task: use a set of special pliers specifically designed for the task. Finally, the whole unit is attached to the engine case using two bolts shown by the yellow arrows. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Looking for more photos? Click to see bonus pictures for this project.   Need to buy parts for this project?Click here to order! Comments and Suggestions: RinSF Comments: Could you please clarify what is the difference between the Oil Separator part 996-107-023-04 and the Oil Separator Internal 996-107-080-54? April 10, 2019 Doug Comments: Does the high performance version of the air/oil separator part 996-107-926-00-OEM work on a 2003 Boxster? Which line is required or will it work with the stock line?Thanks! February 7, 2019   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe they are different. With your vehicle info handy, give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   nick Comments: Thanks for your input, just a thought, and I think I'm trying to talk myself into a position, but ,if it was engine wear, which obviously it must have some, why would it not emit some smoke at every start up? instead of every 3wks or so. Checked my notes, A.O.S. was replaced 24,000mls ago. Thanks for helping me with your input. October 30, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, it would depend if enough passed into the combustion chamber. All depend son how worn. You can simply perform a leak down test to prove the theory right or wrong. https://us.autologic.com/news/how-to-perform-a-cylinder-leak-down-leakage-test - Nick at Pelican Parts   Nick Comments: Thanks for your response, even though it's high mileage I rather doubt the suggestion that the smoke I see occasionally is due to engine wear, engine still runs strong and there is zero oil consumption between 5,000 ml changes. The only smoke visible is as I say about every 3 wks on start up and dissipates after ignition 30sec's. I think my question is, would replacing the A.O.S. eliminate this remote instance? or do all Boxsters just naturally create a little oil that gets expelled through the exhaust occasionally. THANK'S FOR YOUR HELP ESPECIALLY SINCE YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN THE CAR... October 27, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't guarantee anything. Smoke at start up can be the AOS or valve seals / rings. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Nick. Comments: I have a boxster s 2004 and have read all of the 'Info' regarding the A.O.S. replacement and rationale, very helpful, just checked my oil cap for unusual pressure ,none, normal.My question is,car has 150.000 mls,always cared for, I do get some smoke at startup about once every 2/3 weeks, I've been told this is normal, would replacing the A.O.S. eliminate this completely or is this merely part of the Flat Six design . THANKS...Norm.. October 26, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say. With the mileage, the smoke could be from engine wear as well. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Comments: September 6, 2018 CC Comments: 2000 Boxster S. I have to add oil every few hundred miles despite no leaks or puddles of oil on the ground. Some white smoke but not much. Is this a common problem for the air oil separator to be replaced? August 17, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, it is. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jasper Comments: It's the dipstick guide tube. Can I repair it or does it need replacement? July 15, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It will need to be replaced. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jasper Comments: Hi,I am replacing the AOS on my 2000 Boxster. Armed with this tech article, it was really easy to get the old one out. I did, though, accidentally break a hard plastic line that runs underneath the upper AOS vent line that connects to the intake. The hard plastic line has '15.04.99 E-003' and 'Siebe fluid system tecalan' and 'Porsche DIN 73378' printed on it. I do have pics on my phone, but those can't be uploaded to this comment field. Being a sad case of a YouTube mechanic, what did I just break? Does it need replacement or a fix?Thanks in advance! July 15, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Dipstick tube., You will have to replace it, can't be repaired. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Norm Comments: Had my AOS changed last year. This thread helped me help my pro diagnose problem.i just started having a clear puddle by my right rear tire. Had to add coolant. Could this be related, or just require a coolant tank replacement? May 5, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: probably not related if it went a year. I would pressure test the cooling system. It could be a hose or the reservoir. - Nick at Pelican Parts   David Preston Comments: Hi - I am a little spooked by this project of replacing the AOS. I have an 02 Base. Waynes instructions do not mention any other components that need to be removed before you can get access to the AOS from your engine compartment. Is there anything that must be removed to open access to the AOS, or is it sitting there just like in Wayne's Figure 2 picture, when you open the engine cover? Thank you February 28, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: On the model shown, it is accessible immediately. Confirm yours matches the photos. - Nick at Pelican Parts   David Preston Comments: Hi - I am a little spooked by this project of replacing the AOS. I have an 02 Base. Waynes instructions do not mention any other components that need to be removed before you can get access to the AOS from your engine compartment. Is there anything that must be removed to open access to the AOS, or is it sitting there just like in Wayne's Figure 2 picture, when you open the engine cover? Thank you. February 16, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: On the model shown, it is accessible immediately. Confirm yours matches the photos. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Joe Comments: I have a 2002 boxster s tip. I smelled oil burning and looked under the car. Oil was dripping onto cat on passenger side. Looked up inside and can see oil around tube on bottom side of AOS. Had AOS replaced a year ago. Replace AOS again? Also looks like some oil on large tube near top of AOS. January 17, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say without seeing it myself. I would inspect the top of AOS with a mirror. Check if the oil begins below or above it. Then follow the clean-oil streak area toward the source. - Nick at Pelican Parts   AndyJ Comments: Hello Help help help.I have 986 boxster s 110,000 and has been regulaly serviced.It started useing a little water i topped it up a pint a week ish driving 100 or so miles.there was a little water leek on the driveIt then needed a couple of litres to top up. I drove it 5 miles and the temp went to 110deg CI pulled over and let it cool a 3 times but figure i should not go any further.When i next started it up there was smoke on the left exhaust.There was a little oil leak as well.I got towed to a garage. waiting for them to look at itAny ideas what the problem is? September 15, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: did you notice an external leak or puddle on the ground? - Nick at Pelican Parts   Theo Comments: I have a '05 987 and I replaced the plugs and oil. Shortly after that my cel came on and my AOS failed. I replaced the AOS. My cel still comes on and I'm getting codes P0300 and alternating P0301, P0305 and P0306 and car will shut down. Should I change the coils too? Any suggestions on other things to check September 11, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You'll need to determine why the engine is misfiring. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts   PB Comments: I am in the process of replacing the air/oil separator on my 1997 986 Boxster. Project 9 reccomends replacing the hose that connects from the separator to the throttle body. Which hose is this based on your parts listing. August 18, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not the best with part numbers, I am the technical question person.Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Mc Comments: I have an 05 porsche boxster, and my merchanic is suggesting to replace this part, crank pressure oil vaporizor, which ive never really heard of before.I do get a little bit of white smoke on startup, he thinks this shows some leaking which could damage spark plugs and engine over long term. Not expensive but also not a fan of throwing money at non-problems. Any suggestions? July 3, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is the oil separator, as noted in the article - same part. - Nick at Pelican Parts   John Comments: Plan on replacing the aos on my 2001 986 2.7, although after jacking up car and looking at the aos from under car this does not seem like an easy job as you explanation makes it seem. Got the top hose off easily but the side hose is tough. You mentioned 'special pliers specifically for the job'. What are those pliers? June 26, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hose clamp pliers. Check this page for the cable actuated models. http://www.pelicanparts.com/saab/catalog/ShopCart/tool/POR_TOOL_MT0364-detail.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts   Kal Comments: Hi all, I'd like to know where the coolant lines line 13 & 14 in attached picture in my air oil separator are supposed to connect to on my 2008 3.8L 997. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! June 11, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Radiator hose and reservoir, going by memory. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Joe Comments: I have an oil leak on the right side by the wheel and have noticed some smoke out the exhaust on startup. I took a look and noticed that there was wet oil around the lower hose of the AOS. I had the AOS replaced a year ago. Could it have gone bad already? Is there an upgraded AOS? May 18, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on? Right side as in passenger side? - Nick at Pelican Parts   Spiro Comments: Have never changed my AOS on 07 Cayman S. Spoke with Vertex about their modification that routes the dirty air to the other side of the throttle body, preventing the possibility of oil being ingested into intake manifold which happened to my friends Boxster S, which hydrolocked and broke the engine. What is your opinion of such an approach? May 8, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have any experience with that modification. I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Mike Comments: I have a 2009 Cayman S that is showing excessive crankcase vacuum of 12inwc. My mechanic replaced the oil separator with a new one twice, thinking the first replacement may have been faulty. He says this has not fixed the excessive vacuum. Any idea what else may be causing this? April 25, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do you have the spec for crankcase vacuum on your specific engine to share? Not much else could cause high vacuum except for a leak from the intake side to the crankcase.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Richard Comments: Porsche Boxster 986 3.2 s Has anyone else done this. I have added a oil catch tank, I have blanked off the pipe coming from the pipe just after throttle body, and left the smaller pipe attached not sure what this does, seems to disappear to front of car, assume its vacuum pipe for brakes, And pipe that comes out of aos I put to a catch tank in engine bay, bit tight but fits, and put a filter on 2nd pipe coming out of catch tank,Is this likely to make any difference to performance as in no fumes going into air intake pipe, any info would be great, Only reason I have done this is to stop smoke on heavy cornering and braking, as it's a race car, I have not tried it out on track yet, just run up in workshop, Fingers crossed this will be ok, I also run lower oil level on dip stick, just over the quarter mark, to olso prevent this serge of oil, March 29, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: That sounds like a great idea! I have done this to diagnose a bad AOS, but never left one that way. I believe you will be fine as long as it is legal in your class! - Casey at Pelican Parts   Richard Comments: Hi no lights up on dash and no fault codes, If I pick revs up to 3000 then it doesn't hunt, it is a race Boxster, But no real mods, In a race it's fine as revs are always up high, Just annoying on tick over, How do I check crank case vacuum, ?I've checked all vacuum pipes etc, Is there any thing else to check, Many thanks for helping me with this, I did book into Porsche garage, but they wouldn't look at as it's a race car March 29, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you got this handled in your other post? - Casey at Pelican Parts   Richard Comments: Hi I have a 2001 986 3.2sWhen car is idling it's fine, as soon as I pick revs up to around 2000 then it hunts revs jump up and down Looked all over it for air vacuum leaks. But can't find any, Any ideas please, did I see something saying crank sensor, March 28, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do you have a check engine light? I would check for faults before anything. Check fuel trims, see if car is rich or lean or perfect. Check the crankcase vacuum should be less than (numerically lower) 5' of water. As for the crank sensor I don't believe that would cause that issue, but ANYTHING is possible! - Casey at Pelican Parts   Jimmy Comments: I have a 99 Boxster that has been having some problems. It started revving higher when I would press the clutch and go down the gears when coming to a junction, eventually going back to normal. Now it has also started stalling when I clutch and down gear coming to a junction. On occasion when it idles you can see the rev counter dropping and going back up. Engine codes P1124 and P1126 are present. March 12, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Check the intake air ducts after the mass air flow sensor for leaks. Also check the oil separator for damaged hoses. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Pat Comments: 05 Boxster tip, squealed while warm, checked the AOS line to intake based on this article and found oil and crack in line. Disconnected line from AOS to intake and plugged the intake side tight. Started driving to get to shop and was getting a lot of smoke out the side. Pulled over and there was oil everywhere on back passenger of engine. Oil all gone. IMS Failure? engine didn't die though March 10, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The plug you placed in the system may have caused pressure to rise in the engine, causing a leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Al Comments: Forgot to mention the ticking is gone post tank replacement. Looks like it was leaking for some time and just got worse and worse that one night very fast until the tank fully cracked. March 8, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Al Comments: Thank you. As follow up, if the air separator is failing and oil is being pulled in, could/would that cause the engine to run at an erratic idle, jumping up and down? Almost sounding like it's choking? I had the white puff of smoke one time and then notice the idle jumping. Since the water tank was replaced and the pressure was tested properly, the idle is resolved. Related you think? March 8, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the separator can cause that issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Al Comments: 1998 boxster recently brought car in for routine fluid changes etc and tires. When left shop first her ticking below passenger seat maybe slightly behind it. Drove above 5 miles highway speed. Editing parkway idle was jumping from almost stall up to 1200 or so. Car has always idled at 800 clean. Within two blocks clanking noise. At stop sign car shutdown and then there was a lack of power to the dash for a minute or two before the power came back and I started the car. Pulled over and appears to be water antifreeze everywhere on the street mechanic later confirmed tank cracked or burst. Trying to see if they are all related or unrelated. Tank has. Even changed and car ran idle for 2-3 hours and some street driving. Idle issue hasn't resurfaced but I'm concerned. Any idea? March 5, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The ticking may not be related, unless what you heard was air in the coolant lines, however that is unlikely. I would pressure test the cooling system and confirm all leaks are fixed. Then try to pinpoint source of tick. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Mike L Comments: Update on the 97 Boxster cutting out while idling. Only does it when hot. Starting cold it will run without stalling for 10 minutes till temp hits 180. Would this still leave the AOS as the suspect? December 29, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. That sounds more like a faulty sensor, possible crankshaft. - Nick at Pelican Parts   MikeL Comments: My 97 Boxster, 52K, idles smooth 800 rpm. Starts, accelerates and runs perfect, no smoke or oil consumption, temperature under 200, voltage 13 . Two years ago occasionally stalled after idling a minute or so at a traffic lite. Then stalled more often and got CEL with Codes P1123, P1125. Last year installed Pelican OEM MAF & ICV. Lately same symptoms and CEL returns. Disconnected the battery hoping for a relearn. CEL gone but I suspect will be back. Slight vacuum at oil cap. With cap off idles smooth 900 rpm. Don't have a diagnostic tool and nearest mechanic 100 miles away, but before I go do you have any insights? December 26, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty oil separator. I would assume so with the fault codes and symptoms you provided. - Nick at Pelican Parts   DonG Comments: This is a great forum - gained much valuable info replacing my water pump and alternator on my 2001 Boxster with 92k on the clock. Now trying to replace my AOS and getting no where with access through the fender well and from above. So 'should I stay or should I go' to repair shop. Read and re read the article:1 what is size of the AOS mounting bolds - looks like 10 mm to me but can't get a firm grip with socket all made more difficult by the one hand access though the fender well, 2 two wiring bundles make getting the connection on the passenger side 'impossible' - any suggestions. Finally, what is a resonable price from repair shop Google estimates from 500 to $1000 ex parts 2-5 hours for the Wash DC area. 'Should I stay or should I go?' November 3, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can try to remove some of the intake manifold plenum to gain better access. other than that, if you are struggling, best to pay a pro. - Nick at Pelican Parts   etcwhitlock Comments: I think I may have the AOS problem on my 1999 Boxster. I have no obvious oil leak looking at the street under my parked car, but there is oil crud on the hoses attached to the AOS. I have also noticed that my oiil pressure starts out at 4-5 on the gage, but steadily lowers until it is less than 1 at idle, and around 2-3 when driving. Can the AOS cause this pressure problem? I also see oil drops coming down from the area of the AOS that I saw when I changed the oil today. October 17, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: AOS will not cause an oil pressure problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jose Rodriguez Comments: Hi,My 2007 Cayman S is having some sort of vibration at exactly 1300 rpm , my motor mounts and trans mounts are fine, I know my AOS is bad already ordered it, could it be that the two are related because the oil covered the spark plugs??? Or is it something worse maybe a damaged flywheel, No vibration after those rpms and it happens when in drive and neutral, Also I noticed sometimes when accelerating nomally it surges just a little bit, feels like i pressed the gas even more.Any help would be major for me, Thanks Nick! September 30, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If oil was on the spark plugs, the coil boots may have been damaged. Is the check engine light on or flashing when the problem is present? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Rusty Comments: After replacing the AOS on my 2003 Boxster, it has started leaking oil. I double checked the AOS hose connections and everything is dry. Can the repair and leak somehow be related? September 8, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unless there is a running issue as well, probably unrelated. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JohnnyUK Comments: Thanks for the feedback re my Vacuum question, please see this diagram. I think the last guy under the hood may have taken all 4 'sealing bands' part 10 off the car and not replaced in the same location. I have sealed off the vacuum pipe hole with a blank plug similar to part 20 and reset CEL. lets see if it stays off! There was not a parts number list with the diagram so I am wondering why part 10 is shown twice but the rhs band does not have a hole. also the other bands have a different reference number but look like they are blanked off! Possibly its me being too detailed..... if the light stays off I will let you know... here's hoping! August 25, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: part 10 is shown twice because each side of the plenum needs that sealing ring. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Euan_k Comments: What would you deem to be 'significant' oil residue inside the hose yellow arrow. I found a little oil enough to coat the end of my finger - new AOS required? August 24, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would consider significant oil that runs out or is pooled. Oil inside the hose is quite common. If it looks excessive, it could be a sign of a bad AOS.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Nicholas Comments: 987.1 Cayman S. Tracked.Puffed a big cloud of smoke on a really tight corner.Let the car idle for about 30-40 min . Smoke stopped. drove the car again after 2-3 laps, it happened again. Sounds like I need the Motorsport AOS. Nick@pelicanparts - are there any concrete articles on how to install the 996 version with vent hose and 2 bolts recommended? See some people are cutting the 996 aos to make it fit etc..please email me. need help! August 22, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here is a good thread. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/606549-motorsports-air-oil-separator.html We do not currently have that exact article. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JohnnyUK Comments: Hi again, band and hose moulding shown in picture. Is it possible that there should not be a vent line attached to this? It was the rhside sealing bandlooking from rearon a UK 3.2 boxster S 2001 August 22, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for marking it. very helpful.It does look like a vacuum line should be there. Look for a hard plastic line with a nipple end. Use the emission tag under the hood to identify possible routing scenarios. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Andy Comments: I had a bad AOS on my 996C4 and once replaced cylinder 1 was misfiring so all plugs were also replaced and CEL was cleared. Test drive was good and the car pulled strong but code P0012 popped up. I didn't have this code before and was wondering if I could have accidentally caused this. I'm unable to find any loose wires or hoses. could I have caused this issue or could this be coincidence? Where exactly is bank 1 camshaft solenoid? Thanks in advance August 21, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Most likely unrelated. The solenoid is mounted in the valve cover. Double check the wiring is not misrouted. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JohnnyUK Comments: Well... looked closer at a couple of pics i took and the o ring is clearly fitted at this end..... will have to check the other! Advice on the rubber joint would be appreciated. August 21, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The lines come with the sealing o-rings preinstalled. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JohhnyUK Comments: Pic for my question, the band and 'hole' are in bottom right. August 21, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't tell what in the photo you want me to look at. Can you add an arrow or circle item? - Nick at Pelican Parts   JohhnyUK Comments: Hi, I replaced my AOS recently, on a 2001 bosxster S, all is well..... but! on continuing to look at diagrams etc it shows that there are 18mm o rings located within the vacuum tubes that clip onto the AOS and run to the throttle body.. Mine did not have any and I was not aware they should be fitted when I did the swap. Do you guys run the car with them in?I also cleaned out the connector tubes to the intake manifolds.... I saw that one of the wide connecting 'bands' had a moulding hole that could receive a vacuum line... there was no line attached, I could not see an obviously loose line and moulding hole' looked sealed... I didnt push a screwdriver through to check as I guessed it was blanked off at the factory and didn't want a problem!? Do you know if the 2001 S would have had a vacuum line into the band? The car runs well but the CEL is still on. I guess I will have to go back in to look again but would appreciate suggestions before I do!! August 21, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The lines come with the sealing o-rings preinstalled.If there is a plugged port from the factory, leave it plugged. - Nick at Pelican Parts   irie Comments: can the AOS cause the car to misfire July 23, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Kenny Comments: Hi,I have a 2001 Boxster 86k miles, recently I have noticed that the engine temperature is creeping up from a steady 81 Celsius when idle or in traffic which it has always been since I've bought the car 2 years ago up to mid 90's before the fans kick in and cool it down. When I drive the air cools the temperature down to 81-84 degrees again. It has never done this before and I was wondering what might be causing this now? Coolant is topped up and not leaking visibly. However I have noticed that one of the air intake vents is very hot drivers side compared to the other one if that helps.Any suggestions would be grand! July 19, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The gauge or sensor could be off. The engine may be doing exactly what is always has been, but with someone not measuring or displaying correctly. I would manually check the temp and see if it matches the gauge. You'll need a cap you can insert a thermometer through to test with a sealed system. - Nick at Pelican Parts   socalrob Comments: I have an 08 Cayman S, I can't figure out how to get to the front bolt for the AOS. July 9, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you can't see it, remove the components above it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Andrew Comments: Greetings Pelican Staff...great service thanks.I have a 1999 Boxster about 90K miles and while attempting to change the spark plugs noticed a lot of oil in the tube which holds the plugs bellows?. Is this due to a bad Air/Oil Separator? If not, can you advise?Thanks again,A. Oliver May 11, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: More likely the valve cover is leaking. I would replace the gaskets. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   bobatious Comments: The reference to figure 1 in penultimate paragraph should be to figure 2. There is no yellow arrow - or any other arrow - in figure 1. April 29, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated. - Nick at Pelican Parts   65P912 Comments: Hello Nick, can you tell me if the Air Filter Housing can be removed without removing the intake manifold? I am trying to replace the Vent Line Connector, can you provide some guidance on the best way to access this part?Thanks March 7, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: On most models yes. You should be able to get it out. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Tom Comments: Hi, I just got my 2007 CS manual. I drove it about 4 miles I get a massive cloud of whitish blue smoke followed by a burning oil smell. No check egngine light, no codes, nothing.... Then next day I changed the AOS. I also cleaned all the oil out of the plenum, and throttle body. There was lots in there. Upon test driving everything was fine, and seemed like no more smoking or smelling burnt oil. Then I started driving more spirited, I go into a left turn, and upon exiting POOF, another massive cloud of smoke. It eventually stooped, and I drove a little more, and went again around a turn to the left and POOF another massive cloud of smoke.I come home remove the plenum and look in at everything and a lot of oil laying in there. Any ideas what is going on? Do I need another AOS or maybe a motorsport AOS however I don't always have to be going fast into a turn for the smoke to happen? Could there possibly be another issue? March 6, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: For now, assume it is excess oil from the AOS you replaced. Monitor the oil level to confirm it is or isn't dropping. - Nick at Pelican Parts   65P912 Comments: Hello Nick, I am replacing the Air Oil Separator, upper 996-107-145-06 and lower 996-107-147-55 vent lines on a 1998 Boxter, you mentioned snaking the lower vent line, can you provide details on how that was done? What point did you start passenger, driver or center, don't want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks, Ruben February 18, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Attach a string to the line w=onc eit is off, then pull it through. Use the string to feed it back under the intake. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Andrew Calgary Comments: My 98 Boxster with 90,000 miles started to show white smoke, CEL, etc. Durametric analyzer showed various mixture and misfiring faults but nothing about AOS. Your 101 Projects book pointed to AOS so I replaced that to start. Access is very difficult with the engine in the car. Lower access best from behind rt. rear tire when car on jackstands. When removing AOS from above, inlet bellows from right head ripped. Fortunately replacement AOS from Porsche includes new bellows. Best installation tip Mark, May 1, 2013 is to compress lower spring clip on bellows and hold it open with an electrical zip tie before installation cut/rip off tie after installation. This tie tip should be noted in initial instructions and next edition of 101 Projects. Replacement AOS requires 1' longer pipe to intake manifold. I just cut old pipe and 'lenthened' with a 3' piece of 3/4' ID tubing and hose clamps. Now 1000 miles later & still smoke free. Thanks for the useful article and reader tip. February 6, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts   anees Comments: Hello, I have a 1999 boxster 100k miles. In the past couple weeks I noticed some white smoke and an odd smell from starting it in the morning, it is not nearly as bad as the videos i have seen and after like 5 seconds it goes away. My car also has Code PO446 and is taking up quite a bit of coolant max to min in 7 days. I also have the problem where sometimes when I turn it on the car stalls itself or wont turn on at all. This problem always fixes itself and has never stalled after or during driving. Any suggestions? November 19, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: White smoke is likely coolant. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts   paul Comments: I did the test of removing the tube between the throttle body and AOS, blocking off both ends, when I started the car oil poured outfrom somewhere around the AOS! I am guessing this is not supposed to happen? August 27, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Was it out of the AOS? I would try to pinpoint the source of the oil leak. Check if is the AOS, a line of an engine seal. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Miranda Comments: Okay, well, I was 200 miles from home, nowhere near a garage to fix my car, and did not relish paying for such a long tow. So I disconnected the vacuum line to the intake and blocked it tight, loosely blocked the aos side so nothing could get in yet pressure could get out, and drove it home. I never had the big plume of smoke so I figured maybe not too much oil had gotten past the aos. The car ran better than ever all the way home. I did keep an eye on the oil level and it never changed , nor did any blow out the aos. I guess we'll see if any damage occurred.Got the aos changed out in about an hour, reading all the posts here helped a lot. I found undoing e side fitting last allowed much better access to get that fitting off. Lubing the seal on the bottom of the new aos was mandatory. The zip tie trick on the lower bellows clamp was brilliant and worked perfectly! I found the upper hose was broken and patched that up so I can drive the car until the new one arrives. Probably a good idea to just order one with e new aos. Not much money and definitely good insurance.Car now runs and sounds better than ever! August 16, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Miranda Comments: Can I drive my boxster with the oil separator disconnected and the hoses blocked? August 12, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. - Nick at Pelican Parts   SteveP Comments: Hi Nick - reference my earlier post on tube coming off with AOS:I have refitted the tube and AOS before seeing your reply so sorry no photo. The tube in question was the one below the bellows that fits intothe engine block bellows approx 35mm diameter. In the end I froze themetallic tube for an hour then gently tapped it back in from above. There was no lip inside theengine block hole, so it was a slow careful process to avoid going too far and keeping it 'squaure'. I left 50% of the tube in/ 50% exposed which was just enough to make and secure the bellows onto. Thanks to forum for inspiration to cool part and for tip to use a standard sscrew clamp. Carnow running normally. Vacuum on filler tube in correct range. August 3, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is the tube I assumed you were talking about. Glad you got it worked out and thanks a ton for the follow up. Very helpful info. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Laz Comments: The article says 'There have been many updates to the unit over the years. The later-style units are a direct bolt-on replacement, but the hose that connects the air-oil separator to the throttle body has been updated as well the old one is a little too short. If you are replacing your air-oil separator with a new one, be sure to install the updated connecting hose as well.'So when replacing an AOS on a 2001 Boxster S is it it okay to use the part number listed for the car, or is it better to use the later model part? Do I have to replace the lower hose no matter which part I use? How can I make sure it's not going to fail again? August 3, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Always check for the latest part number. I always replace the lower hose, to be safe. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Laz Comments: I have a 2001 Boxster S with 34K miles on it. It had 6K miles when I bought it in 2002. It has sometimes blown a big puff of smoke on startup since I got it. I took it to the dealer for something else but mentioned this smoke. They told me it was normal for this model. For some time it seemed to do it less but recently it's doing it about every other time I start it and there's more smoke. I checked the oil filler cap and it doesn't seem to be too hard to remove, but the engine runs rough with it off. Is the AOS bad? I'd like to replace it if it is, but don't want to waste $150 and a few hours of work if it's not. How can I verify if it's the problem? Also, I read somewhere that there is a newer, better version of the AOS for my car. Should I replace it with the original part number or is there a better part? August 3, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like an AOS. Only way to know for sure is to check crankcase vacuum. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Greg Comments: I have a '99 Boxster that I had the air/oil separator replaced because it blew white smoke after hanging a left hand turn at about 9/10's, it never cleared up but had no other problems.After replacing it I had no problems until I did another hard left hand turn, white smoke everywhere but eventually cleared up and I have not replaced it, that was about 1,000 miles ago.Is there any way to prevent this? Can I always expect this when I hang a hard turn at least a left hand hard turn or is it something that may or may not happen again?Frustrating! I like to drive my car hard when the opportunity presents itself. Thank you,Greg Caldwell July 28, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is a common issue. You may want to try motorsport aos parts.Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   SteveP Comments: Hi, on removing the AOS from my 2000 Boxster S the lower bellows pulled away with a short metal tube still attached. After 2 hours of struggling with the clamps a bit of over-zealous tugging got it out of the car. Do you know if this metal tube is a push fit into the engine case - I don't want to damage it and worried it could leak if not installed correctly.Steve July 28, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo? It may be the tube that presses into the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts   poorsche house Comments: I'm having problems seating that final 'O' ring. Any tips? The engine is warm, not sure a hair dryer is going to make any difference. June 11, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: What lube are you using on the o-ring? A small amount of 3M silicone paste usually works best. - Casey at Pelican Parts   Smec Comments: Hi,I changed AOS but unfortunately still oil in intake. You advise me please what I continue, thank you very much. Martin June 2, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you clean the oil out after the replacement? If not, start there. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Justin Comments: Here's some notes for a Boxster 987 as the process is completely different and a lot easier! No need to access the underside of the car, all work is carried out from the top. Here's some notes from my manual:Fig. 188: Oil mist separatorCourtesy of PORSCHE OF NORTH AMERICA, INC.24. Remove oil mist separator -3- by unscrewing two Torx screws M6 x 20 -1- and loosening the spring bandclamp -2- . Pull oil mist separator -3- from the cylinder head and pull off the hose. Replace O-ring duringinstallation. See Fig. 188.I've also attached a photo from my manual, if this is not allowed then please remove it. The notes above should help someone anyway. Thanks. May 4, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Duker Comments: I've been trying to replace the AOS on my 2000 Boxster S. The current model has a different style of 0-ring on the bottom fitting that goes into the right side of the crankcase. It is wider than the original and when I try to seat it the ring folds up rather than sliding into the hole. Have tried silicone and dish soap and thoroughly cleaned the hole. I note above that 'Dave' on june 29, 2014 had same problem. Any other suggestions? Seems like 80% of the ring is seated; is that enough? May 2, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've found that heating the crankcase with a blow dryer can help get the o-ring in. It is necessary to install the AOS all the way in because if you don't it may crack when you bolt it down... Don't ask me how I know that!! You're definitely on the right track with the silicone, also pay close attention to the angles, you need to get the nipple with the o-ring at the perfect angle to get it all the way in. If you still have issues you can put the AOS in the freezer for 20-40 minutes to make the o-ring more rigid, but be careful not to tear it when installing. - Casey at Pelican Parts   Peter G Comments: Hello,I just installed a 'raptor v' centrifugal supercharger only a conservative 4 psi on a 986 2.7. My ECU will be flashed soon new mapping, but I drove approximately 50 miles and did not past 3500rpm. The next day I had a white smoked cold start bad running at idle and find out there is oil in my in IPD intake plenum. Normally I would say it’s a broken AOS… but because of installation SC blower, I am doubting. Is the AOS broken due to the SC? Is the AOS ok, but is this due the pressure gain? Or is this just coincidence? April 23, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: A quick check of the crankcase vacuum on cold start will tell you. The vacuum reading measured at the oil cap on cold start should be 4-7 Inches of water, and once the idle settles it should sit at 5 inches of water precisely. It should never read above the 7 inches even for a second when the engine first starts. If the vacuum reading is in spec, the AOS is good. Also check the engine oil level. Too much oil could cause these problems as well. Adding pressure to the intake can not be too good for the AOS, but a new one will probably last longer than the old one did! - Casey at Pelican Parts   adamro001 Comments: I just replaced the Oil Air Separator on 2001 Boxster S 986. Purchased all my parts here and once again received top notch service. This article was extremely helpful but I have to tell you this project is not for the faint of heart or impatient type. Took me six hours to complete. Word of advice: buy a clamp pilers. April 22, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   cuco996 Comments: I solved the problem. A scavenger oil pump was fited in the wrong position! April 20, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: WHOA! Good catch.Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   cuco996 Comments: Definetively there is oil going from the AOS to the intake. I clean it and the oil apears again. I replaced the AOS but the same problem. Smoke sometimes at startups and at high rpm. Can any other component of the car cause the oil going to the intake? What must I check?The Oil is between max and min, Even if a drive slowly then oil goes to the intake.Thanks April 14, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Other than oil lever and breather issues no. How long as it been since you replaced the part? - Nick at Pelican Parts   Duker Comments: I have a 2000 S Boxster with 45 K miles I bought last year. Lately I get a big puff of gray smoke on startup ONLY the day after I've driven it for 30 miles or more. This was not happening when I first had the car. I do not drive the car aggressively on the 30 mild trips. Lasts just few seconds. It's my daily driver, about 5 miles twice a day and this never happens after these short drives. Car runs great, no smoking during driving ever, oil and coolant levels stable, no excessive vacuum at oil filler cap, no whining. Is this likely normal or the AOS starting to fail or what? April 11, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be the start of an AOS. Keep an eye on oil level, if it drops, I would have crankcase pressure checked. - Nick at Pelican Parts   cuco996 Comments: I had some smoke huge clouds driving hard and at start ups on a boxster 986 S. I decided to change the AOS, because when I disconect the hose that conect the AOS whit the admision there was oil in there. After that, I drove for about 1000Km 600 miles and no more smoke clouds. This weekend on a hard left turn a huge smoke cloud apers. I have removed again the hose and there´s oil in there and on the intake. I´m guessing if the two oil separators inside the engine are broken. Any sugestion? March 28, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some cars require the use of a motorsport AOS when driven in extreme driving conditions. Double check to make sure the oil level is between minimum and maximum not a hair above MAX. I have also seen where some oil pools in the intake manifold tuning flap and comes out after driving the car hard. Could just be a matter of getting the remaining oil out of the intake and exhaust system over time and with extreme exhaust temperatures. - Casey at Pelican Parts   Ronnie Comments: Hi we got some 02 sensors for a Porsche 07 987 from you guys put them in and went for a drive and we still have no go and black smoke coming out the back we did all 4 o2 sensors as there where fault codes for all I am thinking maf sensor or may be air-oil separator as when you remove oil cap it starts two idle high and load sucking noise from intake when you put cap back on no noise I might be wrong all so the eng light come back on and said bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 I cant remember the code but I can go for a drive and get them again any help would be nice thanks March 10, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Why did you rep[lace the sensors in the first place? What were the fault codes and symptoms? - Nick at Pelican Parts   Herb Comments: forget to state its a 2001 Porsche Boxster having the evaporation problem every time the check engine comes on, and it is being placed on the computer to be cleares it gives a evap code , and have to be cleared by the computer, it is really beginning to be an issue for my brains now can you say and or suggest what might be the issue here . January 26, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The evap code will direct you to the part of the evap system with the fault. Start there. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Herb Comments: I am having an evap problem every time this happens i have to have it cleared by the machine the computer to have the check engine light to be cleared can you say what it likely to be the issue here January 26, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: A fault in the evaporative emission system. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Edster Comments: I guess everyone has their little trick on getting that dang AOS out. I really struggled with that middle connector. I just couldn't get a grip on it. The bottom clamp was fairly easy with a set of baby Vice Grips. I went thru the wheel well for that one. Once the AOS was free and pulled up, then I could get a grip on that middle connector. I almost gave up twice!, but whew! It's out! : Just waiting for the mailman to deliver the new clamp.There was a bit of oil in the top tube. Not good. Also, the lower tube not the bellows was full of crap. I tried my best to clean that out with my pinkie.I usually didn't see a lot of smoke, but one day...it was a smogger. The second time it did it, I decided to change the AOS out. Thanks for your advice! January 23, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Raed Comments: Hi, Iam new user for Boxster 1999, I have aproblem the idle of the car, the Rpm is jumping to 2 and down to 1 , without any pressing in the fuel pedal, I replaced the Air Mess sensor, and cleaned the throttle, but the problem is still, the mechanic man cleaned the injectors, after that all the car has changed, became very bad, and very slow, it is dead car, I dont know what can do more, please need your helpthanksRaed January 13, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking fuel trim. This will help you identify if there is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak could make it hard for the DME to control engine speed. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Francois Comments: Hi Nick, Now I really need help. My Boxster 2.5 …at operating temperature depressing the clutch idle speed will drop as low , at which point the engine starts to stumble and die before recovering and overshooting to 1000 RPM and then drop low again .When coming to standstill and activate the air conditioner or turn the steering wheel to max car will die. The following has been replace, all plugs and filters fresh oil, New AOS, MAF and battery….done vacuum test .What now? November 28, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: What year is your vehicle? I assume it has cable throttle, which would lead me to believe the issue is with the idle air control motor. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Steven Comments: I have a 06 Boxster S. I developed a squealing bearing noise the other night while driving. It varied in loudness when accelerating. I also had a check engine lamp come on before I got home. There were 2 codes; P2189 and P2187 system too lean at idle, both banks It got quite loud. Mine seem to get quieter when accelerating from a stop. After listening around the pulleys and hearing hit loader from around where the engine and trans meet, I just knew it was a IMS bearing failure. I was starting to freak out a little. An extremely helpful, Jake Raby of Flat 6 Innovations talked to me about my situation. He was spot on in his questions. He told me to go ahead and do the AOS first. And he was right!! I am very relieved. November 25, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Jake is great, knows his stuff.Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Will Comments: Hear a high-pitched squeal once the engine got warm, no white smoke. I notice a dropped off in engine performance. I got the AOC replace & now my PORSCHE runs fine. Thanks Pelican. Great Information. November 18, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   George cpg Comments: Hello Nick! I have replace air-oil separator before 1 month and the car is running good, But now i have again oil in intake manifold and the oil it's coming from the separator. Sometimes the rpm its jumping 550-1200 and the engine is not running good... November 9, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the O-ring on the base of the separator is damaged. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Sundar Comments: Hi, I have a 2007 Boxter that I drive very sparingly, it only has 13k miles in 7 years! Lately I noticed there is a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine when driving or idling. The noise goes up and down with the engine speed. Sounds like metal-on-metal, like a bearing is going bad. But the car runs good otherwise, no lights on, no overheating etc. I wanted some expert opinions before I go see the dealer and he charges me 5k! November 8, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove the drive belt and inspect the pulleys and components. You could have a bad bearing or component driven by the belt. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Xavier68 Comments: It's definite oil coming out the tail pipe i didn't mean to say white smoke but it is blue oil smoke October 28, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Might be left over oi. Could be in the exhaust. That is if the breather parts are all OK. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Xavier68 Comments: So I replace the AOS, plugs, O-Rings & tubes with a new one, took it for a drive SAME SMOKE, so again i took apart manifolds, Intake, Crankcase Vent Valve & AOS Vent tubes, clean everything out.Crankcase Vent Valve was clog as seen in pic, I clean it out put it back together, once again took it for another test drive with the SAME SMOKE REULTS. I just order new AOS again & a new Crankcase Vent Valve. Would the IMS make it smoke?My next step will be to drop the 3.2 inspect & fix whatever needs within time, I dont drive it everyday October 27, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: WOW, that is plugged. The IMS would not cause smoking, as far as I have seen.You may be pulling old cuck into the new parts each time. It may take a few attempts at flushing it all out. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Xavier68 Comments: I have a 6Speed 2000 Boxster S I do not drive everyday with 60K miles had it for 3 years. No signs of any smoke etc... runs perfectly.I took the car out for a proper run and hit about 5k rpm in second gear I didn't run hard it blew the hugest cloud of white smoke out the back. engine light came on for 30 secs, and then everything was perfect again, and no signs of over heating. Drove home and goggled to find various threads about the AOS. So, I replaced the AOS, Spark-plugs W/Bosch, all O-rings & Tubes, clean all oil residue from manifold & throttle body intake and the car did not smoked at START UP I let it idle 30min. I rode around the neighbour hood for a few trips, everything perfect again until I hit 5k RPM in second gear and a massive dump of white smoke happened again with a misfire on cylinder 4 & something about the catalytic also the oil filler was sucking like a vacuum when I open oil filler, then car shut-off, again no signs of over heating.Why the smoking?Why Misfire?Any ideas what this could be, I'm not convinced it is the AOS but maybe something else in the system that doesn't like the high rpm's and 'pops' allowing oil to get where it shouldn't be. Any advice much appreciated! : My next step is to pinpoint the misfire on coil 4 will be to swap coils 4 with coil 5 and take it from there Thank you October 25, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unless you have a large amount of oil residue causing the smoking, the white smoke is likely coolant. Especially with the misfire. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Vito Comments: I have an 02 Boxster and just in the process of completing an engine out and rebuilt in, and have been looking for a an article that will point me in the right direction so that I don't spend alot of time looking for a couple of connection questions. first the line coming off the oil cooler, where on the coolant system does that connect to, and the a/c clutch elect. connection location? doing a few items including those tomorrow. October 12, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: A/C clutch should be located in the right side rear fender, there is a group of electrical connectors there. The oil cooler, heat exchanger line should connect to a small hose that Ts off a larger hose. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Redeye280z Comments: I just changed my AOS and cleaned the throttle body on a 2000 Boxster S. I am having a hell of a time getting the air intake tube back onto the throttle body. Would you have any suggestions on how to get this tube back on. I must of spent at least 1 hour trying with no luck. September 18, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Be sure the clamp is backed off, then coat the inside of the duct with dish soap. It should slide on. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Eric Comments: I own a 1997 boxster that has 54,000 miles...I have owned for 4 years and noticed a little smike at start up since i owned it...I paid the car off last month and had my first real issue....coolantbin trunk...I replaced my coolant overflow bottle a week ago and after I did I had a cel...found my oil cap to be loose...as soon as I tightened all was good...well a few days later cel came back on for a bunch of misfire codes po300,po306, p0304 ,p030 p1130, p1128 p0130, p150...plus p1319,1318,p1316,p1317...I changed all my plugs all that i removed looked great one cracked coil. Then I removed my mass air flow sensor and cleaned it...air hosed my air cleaned that looked great and vacuumed the air cleaned case...removed both battery cables and then re connected...went for a ride went about 1 mile and all of a sudden white smoke everywhere...cel flashing barely running...limped the car home and discovered excessive oil coming out exhaust :- read about aos and removed the tube you described above to see if it was coated in oil...it was loaded with oil...procedures to remove all the plugs I just installed and they were all covered in oil...I removed the aos in about 20 mins thanks to your article andics...plan on replacing tomorrow...with so much oil coming out the exhaust will I have to replace the the cats and o2 sensors? Could I have damaged my rings? :- September 4, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have filled the exhaust. Give it some time to burn off. The engine should be OK. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Francois Comments: Good day Nick,I have replaced the AOS on my Boxter 2.5, 1998. It was fine for about a week. However what I am experiencing now is that suddenly the white smoke is back after driving it for about 15 minutes and also the engine cuts out as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator and I have to restart. I experience a different symptom = if the oil cap is on and I rev the engine, it also cuts out. When I remove the oil cap removed easily, the engine starts running normally and does not cut out, but I hear a lot of rumbling noise coming from the oil intake. I have removed the P-pipe and I can feel a bit of oil very little, but please note that the car has been standing for around 12 hours. Any ideas please?Kind Regards,Francois September 1, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have a faulty crankcase breather. i would check crankcase vacuum to see if it is too high. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JoeRamsey Comments: I have a 2005 Boxster S. When I was driving down the expressway today it was making a high-pitched whine like a belt was about ready to throw esp at low rpms but my gauges showed in the normal range and no check engine and engine seemed maybe a little rough but not bad. When I got to my house I noticed a burning smell and figured it was a belt. When I went to start the car back up again after a bit a ton of darkish white smoke was exiting the tail pipe. At first I thought oh no, a blown head gasket or a cracked head but again, no temperature issues and it seemed to calm down a bit after running at idle but was still running rough. I came here and found this article. I don't have a pressure gauge handy but I did try to remove the oil cap and couldn't. I shut the car off, then removed it and started it back up. It ran like garbage at idle and almost shut off. If I put my hand over the oil filler pipe it was sucking my palm in so hard I still have a pretty good indentation in my palm 15 minutes later and it definitely took a little effort to pull my hand away. Given what I'm reading here it sounds like this is almost definitely the AOS. I can go pick up a gauge tomorrow to test but I'm honestly just thinking about ordering the part and replacing it. Anyone feel like this is a pretty safe bet? July 30, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would agree, it sounds like the AOS is the problem. The gauge is the best way, be prepared to replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jeff Comments: Hi Nick, thanks. In your reply you mention having a spare around in case the lower red o-ring that goes into the engine is damaged from the AOS being seated incorrectly July 21, 2014. Could you let me know which part # this is so that I can order it? Thanks. July 23, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have part numbers handy, our parts specialists can help with that. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 - Nick at Pelican Parts   Manny Comments: Hello, recently out of nowhere, I was driving my '98 986. Came to a parking lot for about 10 minutes and shut the car off. After those 10 minutes, I started the car, and the engine rev's between 1000-2000 rpm every 2 seconds. Even when I'm driving, the car opens the throttle on it's own and speeds up. Would replacing this fix this problem, or should I look into other things. I don't want to mess with my car until I know I can fix it. Thanks. July 23, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: AOS could be your issue. I would start by checking the engine for vacuum leaks. If none are found, the AOS may be it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jeff Comments: Hi, I bought the AOS and have installed. But I now have a loss of power at 4000 RPM . The car is a 2000 Boxster S. In the picture I have attached, you can see that there is a red o-ring visible from the outside of the installed AOS. I don't remember the old part having an outer o-ring. Could this be the issue??All the other hoses appear to be seated correctly. Any direction you can provide would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. July 21, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The O-ring is not seated correctly. I would remove the valve, then lubricate the O-ring with dish soap and reinstall it. Have a new one on hand in the case it is damaged. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Damon Comments: I have a 99 Porsche Boxster that is mixing water and oil. The car is overheating and the mixture is exiting the water tank in the trunk area. I had the air oil separator replaced, but the mechanic was unable to flush the system supposedly because he couldn't get enough suction due to the clogging. I don't know if this is fixable or if I should just sell the car for parts. I really know very little about cars so any help is greatly appreciated. July 11, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Dave Comments: I cannot get the new aos o-rings fully seated in the crankcase of my 986. Tell me that's normal because I have given up after 8 hours. June 29, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: None of the O-rings will go into the crankcase? Try lubricating them with dish soap or liquid hand soap. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Mike Petersen Comments: Hi Wayne, I have a 2001 Boxster S with 60,000 miles that is exhibiting the classical blue smoke AOS challenge. I replaced the AOS last year, and the back pressure on the crankcase is still measuring 5 1/2 inches of water. Everything seems to be functioning normally yet I still get the occasional blue smoke.I have discovered that I can 'provoke' the problem by taking very aggressive left-hand turns under full throttle. As the AOS sits on the right-hand side of the engine, I have come to the hypothesis that crankcase oil is being pushed against the right side of the engine, and during shifts at full throttle the high spikes in vacuum pressure will actually suck the oil up the drain tube and into the intake manifold. To correct the problem I am considering bypassing the AOS and treating it like an old fashion PCV valve. Thus, placing a small air filter on the vacuum port leaving the AOS, and capping the vacuum port on the intake manifold. I could easily return it back to factory design at any point in time.Aside from the obvious slight increase in emissions, are there any other harmful side effects that you can think of? The fix seems to be obvious, yet after much web searching I could not find anybody that has suggested this, or tried this. Maybe I am over simplifying the solution, or oversimplifying the function of the AOS. I know you get about a billion questions on AOS on the boards. Thanks for reading this and offering your thoughts. June 29, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is an issue with track cars and smoking. If the breather is tampered with beyond the factory setting, it could fail an emission test. I would look into the solutions the track guys are using, you may find something helpful in our forums. Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Fred Comments: It acts like the AOS is the issue. The idol fluctuates between about 700 and 1100. After gets up to temperature and you shut it off it will not start until it cools back down. And lately when it gets up to temperature it will actually shut down if the RPMs get too low. The grommet on the part going into the crank case was visible and pushed back before I removed it. Could this be my issue? I included a picture. June 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say without seeing the fuel trim data. If it wasn't sealing, the engine will run poor. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Fred Comments: I have removed my AOS but I'm not 100% it's the problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot once it has been removed? June 12, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Off the engine, there is no test. The valve has to be under pressure from the engine. Then a crankcase pressure reading is measured. - Nick at Pelican Parts   waterwhipper Comments: On any technical 'how-to' article on automotive repair, I have found it VERY helpful when the size and type of fasteners are mentioned. For example, it this AOS article it would have been nice to know the size and type the two 'bolts' securing the AOS to the engine. Saves a lot of trial and error. June 10, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   TheRebl Comments: Having recently purchased a 1999 Boxster I noticed white smoke on start up and proceded to change oil separator and found that one of the spring clamps on the flexible hose was actually a regular hose clamp. I am sure that this is not recommended but would it effect the function of the oil separator in any way and would it contribute to the failure of the separator?? I also replaced the hose clamp with the correct spring clamp. June 7, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: A standard hose clamp should nt cause the separator to fail. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Stevo Comments: Hi chaps, I recently 4 weeks ago bought a 08' cayman S from a used car garage, they only sell sporty/prestige stuff and the service seems to be of a high standard. I'm a ex mechanic myself, so I had a good look over the car myself before purchasing and a very detailed look through all the service history. It has full porsche service history and all previous invoices are present. I am confident it's a well looked after vehicle as far as service history and bodywork are concerned Anyway, getting to the point. It was my 3yr anniversary with the mrs yesterday so I went for a drive out and some pub lunch with her, we headed up to the evo triangle in Wales as I'm a keen driver and have always wanted to go. I was driving the car hard when I suddenly got a huge plume of blueish/white smoke from the exhaust and a brief loss of power. I slowly drove the car to somewhere I could pull in to have a check. It drove fine with no cel light, no untoward noises. The smoke cleared and all seemed ok. I sat with the car idling for a moment and had a good look around, no untoward noises or oil leaks/spills present. So I turned the engine off and checked the oil level, it was full so I started the engine again, big puff of smoke which soon cleared on idle. Still sounding healthy, I pulled out of the car park and nearly immediately if gave a large misfire pop and the engine cut out. I once again had a look around for anything obvious limited by lack of tools and no access to the engine. All looked ok. I tried starting it again and it's just started and cut out immediately, if I started it and kept it revving the engine still sounded healthy and running on all 6 cylinders with no cel light. I called and joined the AA as I was 86 miles from home, the chap arrived within an hour. I described the fault and showed him how to gain access to the engine, we both had a look around but the only thing that looked untoward was the intake pipes seemed to have popped of and where not fully seated home on the underside of them. We put them back in place and it started and ran fine, I drove it home and all seems ok since that. My concern is- A. What was the large plume of smoke? Maybe I over whelmed the air oil separator with high cornering speeds? B. Was the big misfire what caused the intake pipes to pop off and stop it running? If so is there an underlying fault still lurking? Any help would be very helpful as I'm not to knowledgable on these cars. Thanks in advance! April 28, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: . What was the large plume of smoke? Maybe I over whelmed the air oil separator with high cornering speeds? this could be the case, keep an eye on it. Or have crankcase vacuum tested. This is the best way to determine if the AOS is faulty.B. Was the big misfire what caused the intake pipes to pop off and stop it running? If so is there an underlying fault still lurking? the mbackfire may have caused the pipe to pop off, this is not uncommon result of a backfire. It may have been caused by the oil consumption issue.Be sure to check engine oil level. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Blackops357 Comments: I Successfully installed Lower AOS Vent Line: by removing the three bolts securing CAI, and removing the left rear wheel well cover. I did not have to remove CAI, just the botls to allow the CAI a little freedom to be moved around. I also connected the new AOS ventilation connection to vent line before securing to crank case. Not an easy job to say the least, im beaten battered and bruised. Saved a trip to the dealer, PRICELESS!!! April 17, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ian Forbes Comments: @Blackops- Dude you rock, That photo is worth it's weight in gold sir! Any luck finding a good way to access the connection there? I am engineering some rubber tubing couper repairs for this hose in the interim, hope it wont be hard to replace in the future! Any one have experience using rubber tubing to repair these rigid AOS hoses? April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Glad you got it worked out. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ian Forbes Comments: Blackops- Thanks, I will go look in a bit see if I can find it, can I get a photo of how it was routed over there from AOS to connection? Essentiall the belt side of the engine as well? April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: SOunds like you got it worked out. Thanks blackops for the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Blackops357 Comments: Pics of where lower vent line from AOS connects to engine. The locations is a beast to get to. The connection is under left intake manifold. Please any suggestions in regards to making the connection is greatly appreciated. Should I remove air intake box? Can I gain access to make connection through the wheel well? April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Blackops357 Comments: IAN FORBES....We are tackling the same beast. Hang in there, I know what you are talking about. Perfect timing, I will take pics. Its not impossible, we just need the correct solution. Hang in there. Pm me or send email addy. Thanks. April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Blackops357 Comments: Help! Any idea how to intasll the LOWER Vent Lint to AOS.? I replaced AOS, upper vent line, Oil filler tubes x2 from firewall to engine. But i ran into a snag. I was able to snake the lower vent line, hiwever no room to get enough pressure to connect to engine. Intake manifolds are loose, but not disconnected from fuel rail...should i remove fuel rail or air intake behind driver? April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: SOunds like you got it worked out:I Successfully installed Lower AOS Vent Line: by removing the three bolts securing CAI, and removing the left rear wheel well cover. I did not have to remove CAI, just the botls to allow the CAI a little freedom to be moved around. I also connected the new AOS ventilation connection to vent line before securing to crank case. Not an easy job to say the least, im beaten battered and bruised. Saved a trip to the dealer, PRICELESS!!! - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ian Forbes Comments: Can someone upload a photo of where the purple arrow hose connects to the opposite side of the camshaft housing? I am taking over after my mechanic abandoned me, the new AOS is in but I cannot figure out where to connect the engine side of this hose. Thanks to anyone who can help. I have found the catalog image but does not show where this connection is actually located... April 13, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like blackdrops got it worked out for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts   carlos Comments: hi its my 2nd time to replace AOS in less than 20km of running.i drive a 2000 boxter S. what could be the problem? i have replace all recommended parts by the parts department March 25, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check if there is a restriction in the crankcase causing repeated failures. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Randy Comments: Hi, I iwas trying to replace the aos on my boxster 2002 but i broke the lowerr fitting vent tube. How do i replace it cause it looks very hard to replace due to all the things i have to remov? March 20, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have to remove the intake manifold if you cannot get to it. Can share a photo of the broken part? - Nick at Pelican Parts   William D Comments: what are the different symptoms between bad head gasket and faulty AOS? would appreciate it very much if anyone could share your knowledge and experience. William D February 21, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: a Head gasket causes smoking and overheatingAOS causes smoking and oil consumption. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Steve Comments: Hi,I have a Porsche Boxster S 2004. During this month in 3 incidents cooling system rubber hoses busted.When I open water reserve tank cap, lot of gas is released is it normal? I feel cooling system is too pressurized, is it a correct assumption? Appreciate if you could let me know what causing these rubber hose leaks.Thank you,Steve February 18, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the cooling system is leaking, I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket.Hoses wear at the same rate. If you replace one, the others are not far behind. I recommend replacing hoses in sets to prevent consecutive hose failures. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Steve B Comments: I just did this on my 2006 Cayman S. It was actually quite easy - 2 e-torx head bolts removed from above, 3 of the pinch to remove clamps the spring clamp on the rubber hose going to the engine block. I ended up removing the hose from where it went to the engine block and then removed it from the AOS off the car. All the work can be done from the top, at least in my Cayman. I'd imagine it's a bit harder in the Boxster as you have to lean over the fender. I pretended I was cargo and worked on it from the rear cargo area. : All my work was done with the wheels on the ground. February 10, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ray Comments: I have a 2009 Base Cayman with 34000 miles. I've noticed over the past few months random and excessive stinky white smoke at cold start, enough to fill the shop. It clears reasonably quickly, and does not smoke while driving. The oil was changed about 6000 miles ago, and I check it often. I've not seen a measurable drop on the 'electric stick.' Yesterday I did a number of short-trip errands without issue, but it felt like the power was down it goes alright, just not crisp in acceleration. This morning at cold start, the CEL came on. Reading your article, I do recall hearing a high-pitched whine on first start after garaging it for a week or so during bad weather excessive crank case pressure? I pulled the oil cap while running...significant vacuum pull and the idle is very rough This was expected, the vacuum was not. I will have the ODB II code read tomorrow, but I think I may have an AOS issue causing a mixture problem. Or could it be something else related? Your thoughts? In my research, I noticed there is a difference in the later model AOS mount points. Is there any specific difference in the replacement process? Special tools or pitfalls? What else should I examine in the troubleshooting process? I've only had the car a few months, and the PPE revealed none of these issues not surprised. Any additional guidance or advice is greatly appreciated. January 16, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The procedure for replacement is different, but not too much. This does sound like it could be your problem, I would suggest checking fault codes as you plan to and crankcase vacuum. - Nick at Pelican Parts   porche2001x Comments: What a day.. when white smoke ..just blow up in the sky...i thought it was AOS so i spend some time trying to get it out ....but it was hardly than i thought...so i check the air filter and my air filter was filled with water...so i dry it out and no more smoke...lol January 12, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Piersman Comments: Hi All,I've a 2001 S that I bought a few months ago. 75K miles. No signs of any smoke etc... runs perfectly.It's got something funny going on that seems linked to the AOS but doesn't seem to be exactly the same either. Basically, the first time I took the car out for a proper run and hit about 5k revs in third it blew the hugest cloud of white smoke out the back that I've ever seen on a car. I lifted off fearing I'd blown the engine, the engine light came on for 30 secs, and then everything was perfect again. Drove home and googled to find various threads about the AOS. I checked the oil filler vacuum, there was a slight sucking in of air, but not a huge amount.So, I replaced the AOS over Xmas what a PITA job that was and the car smoked at start up for a few trips and the oil filler was now blowing slightly rather than sucking, so I assumed all was sorted.Until yesterday when I went out for a drive across town. Everything perfect again until I hit 5k revs or so in second and the massive dump of white smoke happened again. It's a great effect, the baddies tailing me have no option but to brake and avoid it. So it does have it's advantages but not really something I want as a standard feature.Oil level was showing as full when I first got the car and is now showing 1 clear bar to full.Any ideas what this could be, I'm not convinced it is the AOS but maybe something else in the system that doesn't like the high revs and 'pops' allowing oil to get where it shouldn't be.As soon as I lift off the smoke immediately stops.Any advice much appreciated! : January 6, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Under heavy acceleration, like track conditions, these engine will puff smoke once and a while. You may be experiencing a normal characteristic. Monitor your oil level to be sure it is not dropping down. If it nis not smoking at start up, I wouldn't chase it too far. - Nick at Pelican Parts   RobinH Comments: A/O S needed ?I have a 80k miles 2001 boxster 2.7 which I have owned for 500 miles ! I have white smoke on start up which is worse after being left for a few days, but clears quickly. I have a DEL with codes 1128 and 1130. I looked on the forum and decided I need an A/O S, but just checked and there is very little vacuum at the oil filler easy to remove when the engine is running and seemed light vacuum when I put my hand on top. Does this still sound like an A/O S issue or something else. In addition there is a slight smell of coolant around the car and the level has dropped an inch in the top of the reservoir in 500 miles. Any advice welcome - I'm a complete novice to Porches but have wielded wrenches on other cars.ThanksRobin December 27, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If smoking at start up, it could be the start of a failing AOS. Might be best to replace it before it gets worse. - Nick at Pelican Parts   kompkev Comments: Is there a way for Air Oil Separator, High Performance Version to fit on 2000 boxster? November 12, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a high performance oil separator for the 986 Boxtser. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Obin Robinson Comments: I just did this job and I found that a small c-clamp works to remove the lower bellows clamp instead of a special tool or pliers. I simply used the c-clamp to open the hose clamp up and remove it. I reinstalled the clamp using the same method. This seemed to take a little bit more time than using a special tool but the results were the same. October 4, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jay Laifman Comments: Ok, I just did this and want to add some comments not made above. Pelican mentions that there are two crankcase check valves 996-107-047-51-M100 that could lead to premature air oil separator failure. I could only find one. It was on the top left front of the engine under the intake. You can only see it with the engine cover behind the seats removed - and it's tucked in there. It was quite a task to get it off and out and replaced. But, it was covered in enough dirt that I decided to do it. FWIW, I unscrewed the bolt from the top with a very long extension and used one of those springy-finger grabbing thing to grab the bolt so it didn't fall. Then I pushed the valve and hose backwards, got under the car and pulled it down. I could swap in the new valve from there.I spent a lot of time looking and could not find the other one. Anyone know? This is on a 2000 S.Also, the replacement air oil separator came with a new flexible hose or bellows out the bottom of the separator. So, you don't need to buy one.Also, the replacement crankcase check valves come with new o-rings. So you don't need to buy those either. September 7, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info and taking the time to share your experience. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Tonyl Comments: HiThanks for the replyReplaced the aos valve with genuine Porsche part but the oil smoke is still there on start up. Any other ideas?Car runs spot on apart from this. Just looks terrible Thanks tony August 26, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. If there is oil residue in your intake manifold or exhaust system, the smoke will last until it burns off. Could take one or two test drives.- Nick at Pelican Parts   clickman Comments: While cleaning out the throttle body yesterday, I noticed more than a light coating of oil in the tube from the AOS. When I pulled off the tube off the throttle body see pic and stuck my finger in the bottom of the fitting on the throttle body, there was enough oil there to drip off my finger.I've also been having to replace oil on a fairly regular basis, which I had been attributing to spirited driving.No indication of blue in the exhaust, though...Is the AOS due for replacement? August 25, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If there is that much oil in the intake, the AOS is likely the issue. Not many other places for the oil to come from. I would replace it before it gets worse. - Nick at Pelican Parts   DaveB Comments: Yes Thanks Nick - I found access to end of pipe connection is best after removal of internal panel to engine inside car - the big problem is that the pipe is rigid so will be hard to replace as it threads over the engine top and through the intake manifolds. Got new pipe from Porsche to fit so I will have a go. August 17, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   DaveB Comments: Thanks Nick...Does anyone know the best / easiest way to get at the connection for this pipe? Looked at top of engine it cant be seen or reached...partly visible from underneath but looks as if inlet manifold would need to be removed after all the throttle body tubes and with all the wires sensors etc it looks daunting job August 15, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you remove the throttle housing and the crossover air pipes on the intake manifold, you should be able to get to it. At least a lot easier. - Nick at Pelican Parts   DaveB Comments: Good info...fitted new AOS but broke flexible pipe that connects to mid point of AOS body. Did temporary fix of supaglued rubber pipe inside flexible broken pipe so this has reduced to bore to about 6mm for about 3 inches - It works but then looked to see where the other end fits onto engine to install new pipeand its almost 99% inaccessable...Does this have to be fitted with engine out?!? Please advise August 14, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: This pipe can be replaced without removing the engine. I would replace as soon as you can. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Blake986 Comments: My 1998 Boxster is throwing to codes: P1124 & P1126 in addition to a low output reading from my MAS. Reading on the two codes indicated that it could be an AOS issue. My questions is: if the AOS is an issue, could this also be fouling up the sensors on the MAS? Thanks. July 31, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There would have to be quite a bit oil to reach the MAF sensor. It would have to work up theintake pipe, against pressure. I would guess not, but you never know. If you knwo the AOS is an issue, start there and see if your codes are rememdied. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jdlowder1 Comments: Well, I just got done replacing my AOS on my 2002 Boxster S. it took 2 hours just like the tech article says, but reaching way up in from the bottom is more difficult than the pictures make it look. I recommend unbolting the little bracket holding a wiring harness under the blue arrow in figure 3 above. I also had more trouble with the 'quick disconnect on the right side of the AOS. it's hard to pinch the releases and pull it off. Can't seem to get a good hold on it and my hands are not exceptionally large. I used short handled channel locks to squeeze the release and a long screw driver to apply prying pressure in the correct spot. Kinda tricky. I would say this was the toughest part for me. Once everything was loose, I pulled up on the AOS in the hopes of ripping/ tearing the bottom hose that is trash anyway new one is included with new AOS. However, it did not tear as planned. This ended up working out nicely. I left the tension on the AOS and came in from the bottom with my channel locks and when the clamp tension was released, the hose was freed instantly. I pulled the AOS out from the top. I inspected and cleaned up the area before installing the new AOS. Be careful not to get dirt into any of the exposed opening and hoses. I can only assume that it would be a bad thing. Lol. As for reinstall, I got the AOS positioned and kinda dry fit everything to make sure it lined up. Oh, make sure you reconnect any wiring harnesses that we're disconnected during removal. During the dry fit, I remembered one of them and HAD to pull the AOS to reconnect it. Dry fitting was a good idea. Reconnecting hoses was not bad at all. I had a little trouble lining up the holes to bold it back on to the side of the transmission where it attaches. Other than that, I did a test run for about 3 miles, got up to operating temp 180 degrees ish and rough idle seems to have gone away. My AOS was not completely shot like some of the mosquito foggers I saw on YouTube, but I'm convinced it was causing my rough idle at operating temp. I did occasionally get a puff of smoke at cold start prior to replacement, but this pre dates any rough idle issues. Porsche states a puff that clears in a few seconds is normal at cold start. I believe them. I have my oil analyzed at each oil change to test for contaminants. Cost about $18 for the test kit at NAPA Auto parts. Money well spent. I sleep better knowing I have zero coolant and abnormally high amounts of metal in my oil. July 27, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   BobMarley Comments: Can I visually see if I have the old version of the AOS? July 22, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's hard to tell. You will have to check with what version the year of your vehicle came with, then buy the kit to install the new one. Which woul dhave the updated AOS and hoses, if needed. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Foz Comments: Hi. Just purchased a 1999 Boxster 2.5On start up it occasionally lets out a small puff of smoke and when it gets up to temperature it idles between 1100-1300 rpm, if I open the oil filler cap while its running it sounds like its sucking in lots of air. When I disconnect the MAF it stalls same when I disconnect the idle control valve plug. It is showing no error codes when plugged in. Does this sound like the symptoms of a failed AOS? Thanks July 21, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does sound like you have a faulty AOS. The best way to tell is to measure cranklcase vacuum. If the crankcase vacuum is out of spec, this indicates a faulty AOS. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Bill Comments: It turned out that the 'gallon' jugs of oil I aded were in fact 5 qts. so i overfilled by a qt. Hoping that is all there is to it. July 5, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Tonyl Comments: HiI have a 2007 boxster with 24k mlsIts a 2.7The problem being cloud of blue smoke on initial start up then clears it runs ok and doesnt smoke on standard running only after being stoodany ideas?thanks July 3, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some smoke after the vehicle sitting is fairly common. But it could also be the start of a failing AOS. If the problem gets worse, I would replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Bill Comments: The vac test is in inches of H2O? I blew smoke last weekend and it was checked using inches of Hg. It read about 7' and that would be I think like 94' H2O - lots of vacuum. But to the touch there wasn't an unusual amount.I have the X51 3.8L in my '06 CS and thought I wouldn't have these issues. For the first time ever it is blowing smoke at the end of a straight after a 180* left hand hairpin. No CEL, no codes per PIWIS, no squealing. AOS or something else? ThanksBill/Memphis June 22, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The test is in inches of water. I usually see about 5'.If it is blowing smoke only after a turn, I would check the air oil separator. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Targa Comments: Hi .I race a 2007 Cayman ,and i have a problem with the oil in the corners at high speed somebody ,told me this :If you drive your Boxster/Cayman on a track, certain conditions can cause a serious engine failure. High engine RPM's during high speed turns will cause engine oil ingestion. This situation will be further aggravated if race tires are being used.Ingestion occurs when the air/oil separator is overwhelmed from the conditions mentioned, and oil is forced into an air ventilation hose. The result, oil is sent into the air manifold, which feeds oil into the engine cylinders. This causes extreme smoke from the exhaust, unusual back-fire type sounds, and can cause damage to the engine.I am very interested in your opinion and if you have some part that will solve my problem or if this is the problem?Thank you very much . June 20, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There can be a problem with your AOS or you're just possibly overwhelming it. I have heard about an aftermarket solution, give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you look into a solution. - Nick at Pelican Parts   jamesleeworks Comments: Hi I was wondering if anyone knows how exactly the AOS works? is it vacuum or pressure activated? June 14, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Pressure is built up in the crankcase from the increase in temperature and combustion blow by. As pressure builds the gases are drawn toward the AOS. There is slight negative pressure there from being connected to the intake system. As the oil moves through the valve liquid oil gets trapped in the baffles but the gases are allow to escape into the intake and get burned in the combustion process. - Nick at Pelican Parts   2kboxster82kmi Comments: had a bit of hesitation in the motor and some white smoke. With oil cap removed it runs really rough and is drawing lots of air. Replaced the aos and not much change. did pick up some idle and no smoke but vacumme is still high and hesitation still prevails. there was huge goobs of oil in aos tube, no doubt needed replaced. June 11, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: White smoke is typically coolant or brake fluid. You may have a vacuum leak and with the oil cap removed your also letting more air in to the crankcase and therefore the intake through the now clean aos tube. Check for oil on your Mass Air Flow sensor. May have gotten there from oil being allowed into the intake through the old aos tube. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jim Comments: 2003 Boxster S, 60,000 miles. I am trying to diagnose a squealing sound and suspect the AOS. The squeal begins at about 25mph and doesn't vary in pitch with engine speed or car speed, ie it is a constant pitch. Below about 25mph it ceases. Any thoughts? June 2, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be the AOS. However, I would try to pinpoint the noise to be sure. if the noise doesn't change with RPM or vehicle speed you might be on the right track. Try rasing engine RPM in Park, check if the noise can be duplicated.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Tremollett Comments: Thank you Nick @ pelican parts the AOS and plugs I purchased sorted the smoke problem out. There was no need to crank the engine over with the plugs removed in the end, I removed the plenum/throttle body enough to clean out the large deposits of oil , using a lint free cloth and some carb cleaner. A short drive to heat up the cats and cylinder head 8miles and no more smoke. May 31, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. The AOS can make quite a mess. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Sanner Comments: I have a 2003 auto tiptronic Boxster with 150k I bought new. In 2007 at 50k I had an IMS catastrophic engine failure and rebuild by dealer under an extended warranty plan. Since then I have myself replaced the fuel pump, water pump, brake rotors/pads, various fluids and routinely change oil and filter. Last week as I was pulling out of a parking lot and accelerating when I heard a 'funny' noise immediately followed by an enormous amount of white billowing smoke from the rear exhaust? blinding all traffic behind me for a good 5 minutes until dissipated. I immediately pulled over and shut off the engine and then noticed a very small salad plate size oil puddle on the pavement beneath the exhaust. Checked the oil level on dipstick and found a little on the red rounded tip-end. Towed the car home and researched the problem. I'm fairly certain it is the AOS. Does that sound reasonable? What all parts do I need, or do you reccommend, for a DIY project, including any tools, tips, or tricks to make it go as smoothly as possible? Thanks for any help and by the way, your website is BY FAR, the best! May 31, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like it could be the AOS. I would give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Tremollett Comments: I was driving home at around 50 mph, and had a smell of oil when I looked in the rear view mirrior the car was bellowing white smoke as I pulled over the CEL began to flash, I shut the engine down and had the car towed. Reading he CEL codes indicates misfire on cylinder 1, 2, 4. I have ordered the AOS and new plugs. Is there away of cleaning the oil contamination from the cylinder head before putting in new plugs and starting her up. Thanks for the artical it's been very helpful. The top PCV pipe was full of oil when I removed it. May 15, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Cleaning the oil outof the engine is tough and messy. The only way to remove the excess oil is to remove the spark plugs, then crank the engine over. This does make a mess though. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Bartman Comments: OK I spent two hours last night and got everything disconnected except the clamp at the bottom, and so had to put everything back together. How on earth do you get that bottom clamp off? I could barely get my hand in there, let alone any sort of pliers to attempt getting it off? May 7, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's definitely a tight fit. I use either a pair of long needle nose pliers, 45° jaws, or my favorite, this hose clamp tool: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT142_pg16.htm The hose clmap tool is maybe the best way to release and hold spring type hose clamps. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jim Comments: First, thanks for making these tips and comments available they are life savers to say the least. I should have read through the comments section before I bought a replacement AOS from Pelican. I noticed one of the staff's replies indicated it would be a good idea to replace the PVC valve. I'd like to buy one from you guys but, I can't find it on your web site. Could you tell me what the P/N is for a 2000 Boxster S? Also, any other parts you can recommend? I don't want to blow another AOS because I didn't replace a cheap part. Thanks again for the help. May 6, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call. They will help you grab all the right parts: 888-280-7799 - Nick at Pelican Parts   S03 Comments: 1997 boxster, purchased a new battery starts fine quickly dies.If after start up i pump the gas pedal continuously it stays barely alive when i stop depressing gas pedal shuts down.I noticed the oil level is above max could this cause problemsI read the oil oyxgen sensor could be the starting point.Any advise would be appreciated. May 3, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: you could have a problem with your AOS. First check the DME for fault codes using a Porsche scan tool, correct the oil level issue, then inspect the AOS. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Mark Comments: I bought my 2002 Boxster with 47k miles 3 yrs from a private sale. The day I picked it up, it blew white smoke for about 5 minutes then quit. The only persistent flaw I have had since purchase is a rattle in the rearmost catalytic converter on passenger side when in 1st or 2nd gear. Last fall, the exhaust blew white smoke almost every other week. It had the other symptoms as well: rattling catalytic converter, CEL for rich fuel mixtures, fouled spark plugs, oil useage, louder than normal engine, and sluggish behavior. I bought your book, and just started reading it front to back. I had never heard of the AOS until I read about it, and the problems it causes when it fails. I knew I needed to replace exhaust, but I decided to try AOS first. While waiting for it to arrive, I changed oil and filter, and cleaned my K&N air and cabin filters. After changing the AOS, I started the engine and it was noticeably quieter, and NO SMOKE! My Bentley book doesn't talk about the AOS, but yours does. I am so glad I bought it and read it, looking for projects to do, instead of looking for projects I knew I needed to do. I will clear CEL codes then I am confident I can drive it again while saving money for the exhaust overhaul. Unless you suggest something different.As for the replacement, I took my time and patience, and it took two days: one to remove, one to install, each day about 1.5 hours. I spent about half my time under as above the engine. Tip for squeezing the hose clamp off and on: Use needle nose Vise Grips to open it and hold it until you can slide it off. For install, while still on the workbench, I again used the needle nose Vise Grips, but after opening it, I placed a heavy duty zip tie on it to hold it open. I installed the AOS, slid the hose over tube after cleaning the tube, and using a dental mirror, I ensured the hose was snug, then clipped off the zip tie. I connected the other hoses, and finally screwed in the bolts. Cramped and crowded, but it still went just like your book showed. THANK YOU! May 1, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Awesome, glad the article was helpful. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: thanks can air/oil separator when is spoil and u block the pipe from intake.can it bring oil leakage in the engine i did that but engine oil leak to mush oleas let me know thanks April 23, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not 100% sure about what you are asking. BUT, if you are asking if thr air / oil separator can cause an oil leak into the engine, yes it can. If the diaphram ruptures, oil will be drawn into the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts   lookthru Comments: How would I know for sure if I am to have the air-oil separator replaced? my 1997 boxster symptoms.The engine idle is poor irraticwants to shut down if I don't accelerateeven when I do it sometimes chokes.When cold I can hear a popping noise around the exhaust area.After I install a new battery could I do any additional damage by starting it up again.Thank youAnthony. April 23, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a test procedure for the AOS in the article you responded to. There are numerous items that can cause the symptoms you describe. The popping could be from improper fuel mixture or possible mechanical issues. If your battery is bad that can also cause running problems from low voltage. You will need to replace your battery and then properly diagnose your car. - Denny at Pelican Parts   JasonFarris Comments: Hi Wayne.I just completed the AOS replacement with parts from Pelican. When my AOS went out, I was driving on the freeway with the top down. Before the smoke, I heard a strange whistle/whining sound, and then suddenly huge volumes of blueish smoke. I stopped and had the car towed, but not before driving almost a mile to find a safe place to stop. Now the AOS is complete, it's blowing white smoke. At first, a LOT of white smoke, but after letting it run for 20min it's down quite a bit, but still puffs pretty hard when I rev the engine. How long should the car be running before this smoking stops? Should I drive it or just let it burn off in the driveway. My biggest concern is that there's more wrong than just the AOS and I don't want to damage it further trying to burn off the smoke. Advice? April 11, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check your engine oil level, if it is good andn ot decreasing, run the engine until the smoke dissipates. There could be another problem, however if you have a lot of oil in your intake and exhaust system it may take some time to blow it out. - Nick at Pelican Parts   John H Comments: 2006 Boxster S 48K miles. 70 mph on cruise control, temp spikes puff of white smoke out exhaust. Slow to 50 mph, temp drops to 175, Pull off freeway into gas station, temp spikes again, oil pressure drops, car knocks. Turn off. oily water pours out bottom of passenger side of engine compartment. What say? Head gasket? Cracked head?. Hesitant to get it to a shop and have em drop the engine only to tell me it's shot and needs a replacement. Looking into some used Boxster engines online and the biggest company gets the worst ratings and some angry customers. Any suggestions on what I should do out there? I don't have home shop access so will have to trust a Porsche mechanic out here in Santa Rosa Calif. Car has been regularly serviced with no past problems. I'm devastated. April 1, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Oil and coolant intermix could be a sign of a bad head gasket, as is the temp rising under load. I would have the cooling system pressure tested and see where the leak is. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Mitchell B Comments: Your figure #3 displays a Purple arrow to the second quick connect that travels under the Manifold to the other end of the camshaft to the left front of the engine,behind the driver seat. As I was removing the AOS from the topm it snapped. How is the best way for access in your opinion and also, I don't see a replacement vent line,only the short one. March 16, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have to remove the intake manifold if you can't get to it from the top of the engine. It is a tight fit as it is, add your hands and even worse. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Eric Comments: Pelican Parts is awesome! I had what appeared to be an AOS fail, but the mechanic insisted that it was an IMS fail and that the engine of my 2002 Boxster S was destroyed. I spent about five weeks looking into the options: scrapping the car, selling it to someone with an engine, finding a salvage Boxster and doing the swap myself, and even putting in a Suburu engine. Finally, I brought the car home while I waited for a good salvage engine to come on the market. Once home I decided to check out the OAS just in case the mechanic had made a mistake. Thanks to this article I was able to quickly determine that in fact it was the OAS that had failed! I took the car to another local Porsche garage and they confirmed that it was the OAS. Thanks Wayne! March 15, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: WOW, awesome story. Thanks for sharing and glad it worked out for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Malky Comments: HiI have just had a new head gasket fitted while it was being fitted a new AOS was fitted. When I ran the car the AOS blew when checked the engine had been overfilled with oil. 2 AOS later plus renewal of air intake pipes etc I got the car back. AOS has gone again what could be the issue 5k spent so far still no car. 2000 Boxter 2.7 January 20, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The air oil separator is a an emissions control unit whose purpose is to separate fuel vapors from the crankcase and funnel them back into the intake. These units fail over time when the diaphragm inside gets old and breaks. They can also be caused fail prematurely by other components on the engine failing, most noticeably the positive crankcase ventilation valve (PVC). If the ventilation valve is clogged or broken then the pressure / vacuum levels inside of the engine may become very high, and that puts a lot of stress on the air oil separator diaphragm. Typically when people have a air/oil separator failure problem, and it keeps happening again and again, it's often related to the PVC valve. I did a close look at this first. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Lyle.woodard Comments: What is the crankcase ventilation valve Wayne mentioned in his response to Matt in October of 2011? What system is it associated with, and where is it located? January 18, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The PVC valve (there are two of them) is attached to the top of the valve cover, and is also attached to the hoses that feed the air-oil separator. It may just look like a simple connector, but there's a valve in there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   DaveRemy Comments: Removal Hint for the AOS. Great article and comments. My 2002 986 w/ 160k mi. had the usual symptoms CEL 1128/1130, smoke when started cold, rough idle until operating temp etc. Replaced the AOS from the top only with the aid of a disposable razor knife. Use the knife to slice or 'saw' the bellows boot be certain your new AOS comes with a new boot at the base of the AOS of course exercise caution not the damage nearby wires or drop anything into the crankcase. Then remove the two vent lines a pair of needle-nose pliers may be necessary to gently coax them. An external E-10 socket was needed to remove the two bolts, although an 8mm socket fits surprisingly snug. Once the AOS is out of the vehicle, you can then remove the bottom clamp. Lastly, I replaced the bottom clamp with a standard hose clamp for ease of installation. January 16, 2013   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tips! - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Boxster2003 Comments: My AOS failed 100mi after I replaced it. In previous replies Wayne mentioned a crankcase check valve but there are at least three I know of. How do I find out which is it, please? December 31, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The crankcase check valves are pretty cheap and easy to replace. I don't know the specific procedure for checking these, I would just replace all of them all at once and I think that would fix your problems. They are located on the top of the engine on either side of the valve covers. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   boy sky Comments: Idle on my 1998 boxter was going up and dawn so I replaced the hose and the oil separator,when I restarted the car the idle still going up and down so I opened the oil cap and this help some but still not perfect any help will be very appreciated. thank you December 10, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you verify the separator was bad and leaking? There are a number of items that can cause an erratic idle. The idle surge is caused by a changing fuel mixture and you will need to find the cause. denny@pelicanparts   Marvin S Comments: I recently replaced the AOS on my 2002 986 with automatic transmission with parts from Pelican. Replaced it from top side. Not the easiest thing to do but be sure to get the quick release clamp. The job is a lot harder without it. November 11, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for the tip. denny@pelicanparts   Aloha from Hawaii Comments: I took the oil filler cap off.A small amount of smoke was coming out of the filler even after the initial puff from the exhaust cleared up. Also there didn't seem to be excessive vacuum, but there was no change in the idle with the cap off.My car puffs almost every morning on initial start and almost never again until the next morning. Should I replace the AOS ? September 30, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I doubt that the air-oil separator is the problem. There might be some type of vacuum leak somewhere else, hence no change when you remove the oil cap. But if the AOS was failing, then you would have a lot of vacuum pull at the oil cap (most likely). - Wayne at Pelican Parts   tomalby Comments: My 2002 70k boxster's oil/air seperator failed on the weekends, huge clouds of thick white smoke billowing out of the back. Only bought the car two months ago, from a prviate seller, so was pretty nervous I'd bought a dud when the smoke started.Took it to Vertex Automotive in Miami who changed the part out for $680. Not cheap but am just glad its fixed. Thanks to Pelican for all the detail on this site, was really helpful and am now going to try and change air and cabin filters myself! September 27, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank you for your comments. Changing those cabin filters is easy compared to the separator. denny@pelicanparts   GaryR Comments: What is average cost to replace the oil seperator and replace valuce in Cyl #1? September 19, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Labor rates vary wildly by the location and type of repair facility you use. If you are going to use a shop for the replacement I would get quotes from a few local shops that work on Porsche's as a speciality. They will be most familiar with your Boxster and have the proper tools and equiptment. denny@pelicanparts.com   Mike Comments: I was driving my 2007 boxter home from the mechanic when it made a gurgling noise and the check engine light went on. When I arrived at home and parked it all of the oil ran out of it. What is wrong? June 20, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am sorry to hear that. I would contact the shop and have them tow it in for inspection. Do not start the engine or drive your car until the cause of your oil loss is determined and repaired. denny@pelicanparts   Two914s Comments: Thanks for the great instructions on replacing the Oil Air Separator. I cut mine apart after removing it, and here are the photos of the diaphragm with at least three small tears in it. June 15, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for your comments and the picture. That is the typical internal failure the the AOS. denny@pelicanparts.com   dave Comments: changed my separator about 100 miles ago on a 3.2 s boxster 2002 no smoke but still running lumpy and holding back do i just keep driving it and hope it clears or try something else?? May 31, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you verify the AOS was leaking prior to replacement? Other causes could be fouled Oxygen sensors caused from the oil from the leaking separator. Also air mass sensors can cause poor running and surges in power. Denny at Pelicanparts   RSM986 Comments: Wayne - I recently purchased a 1-owner '02 Boxster w/55K miles & a clean CarFax. Dealer previously did 60K service at 46K & replaced clutch. We had a local shop do a major service & inspection upon purchase with exception of air filter due to availability. At 57K, CEL with no exhaust smoke showing Codes P1128, P1130 - replaced air filter; cleared codes. Short ride, CEL with same codes - cleaned MAF w/CRC; cleared codes. Another short ride, CEL w/same codes & irratic idle 650-800, high vacuum at dip stick & unable to remove oil fill cap - replaced Oil Separator & cleared codes. Oil was present in the tube leading to the intake manifold.Engine idle now steady 700 rpm, low vacuum at dip stick & able to remove oil fill cap w/engine running. Test drove 22 miles with no smoke & steady idle 700 rpm. - no CEL. Parked car in garage & noticed small oil leak on the ground about 5' circle - oil leak appears at bottom of bell housing/engine mating. NO engine leak noted before replacing Oil Separator. Cleaned up concrete & no fresh leak noted.What do you think would cause this? Rear Main Seal??Thanks for your 101 Project book & website - have been a wealth of information in diagnosing this issue step-by-step.Would greatly appreciate any insight/expertise you can provide to point me in the next direction to get the problem resolved.Thanks - Rich May 14, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does sound like the problem was with the air-oil separator, in that you could not remove the oil cap with the engine running. That is a clear sign / clue. When there is very high crankcase vacuum, the engine tends to draw in air from the seals too, which can actually damage them. It may be that the rear main seal is damaged, but I would just drive the car for a bit and see if the oil leak continues. It may be that the seal reseats itself after being pulled around by the crankcase vacuum. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Elanman Comments: Anyone know if the 944 AOS unit has check valves or a control diaphragm in it? Spring and rubber diaphragm that control the flow rate into the cyclone May 11, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I've actually never heard of the 944 having one of these air-oil separators. It's actually a newish type of emissions control device. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Michael P Comments: Some of the talking heads on several of the Boxster/Cayman owner forum sites e.g. Planet-9 and the CaymanRegiter.org, and others have suggested replacing stock air oil separators with I gather, but have not seen one to compare a larger and more robust Porsche Motorsports AOS. Does Pelican have a position on this, and does it have or stock the Motorsport AOS part? May 10, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Michael,Wayne started a thread on this topic last year. See it here:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/606549-motorsports-air-oil-separator.html - Scott at Pelican Parts   Jim K Comments: I have a 2000 Boxster with 105K on it. I'm the original owner. Just repleaced the AOS over the weekend. I found it best to remove the nut holding the coupling for one of the O2 sensors from underneath. You have to unplug the senor to get to the 10MM nut. You need to press in on the coupling tab at the bottom to release the plug. Also the two vacumn lines that attach to the AOS One from above and the other one best serviced from belowis difficult to remove. I used a small flat head screwdriver as a small pry bar take care not to warp the plastic to separtate the AOS from the vacum fitting. All-in-all, I took my time and all went according to the diagrams and discussions above. I have a Porsche Service Manual by Bentley publications, and it did not even mention the AOS. This techincal was a game changers. THANKS!!!! May 7, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the kind words and the good tips! - Wayne at Pelican Parts   JR Comments: I have a 2001 boxster with 80,000 miles in it.during a drive comming from Vegas i notice a cloud of white smoke comming from the exhaust pipe. i was able to leap home without busting my engine. I also suspected that something was wrong with the air/oil separator. I am going to bring my car to the dealer. How much do you think will i spend for the replacement of the separator? Thanks. April 26, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Labor rates vary wildly. I would recommend getting several quotes on replacement from a dealer and some local independent shops that specialize in Porsche's. Denny at Pelican Parts   Jsalcedo Comments: I have a 2005 Boxster with 52k miles. The car has a 'small' leak around the area where the Air/Oil separator is located. I don't have any of the problems mentioned in the threads above, but i'm kind of curious if it is not the Air/Oil separator, what else could it be that is causing it to have this area somewhat oily/dusty top right rear corner of the engine. April 19, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Even if the separator has not failed there is oil and vapor in the hoses and AOS system. I would recommend cleaning the area, checking the hoses and clamps and going of a drive. After your drive recheck for any leakage. Denny at Pelican Parts   mally Comments: hiya when i remove the oil filler cap on my 2.5 boxster there is a loud noise of air blowing out of the filler, i have also lots of oil on top of my engine under the right handside air intake,the oil separator conections seem dry,is it possible that the oil is coming from the crankcase connector,removed oil separator,all pretty gunged up.Cheers for any help. March 17, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I wouild recommend replacing the AOS as they are a common failure item that cause the problems you describe. After replacement clean the top or your engine go for a drive and then recheck for leaks. Denny at Pelican Parts   sam Comments: Great help that was , first i thought the rings or the valve seals gone bad. changed the oil separator at a cost off $385including the oil change parts an labor , and that took care the heavy smoke the boxter is back to normal. March 9, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Alway happy to hear success stories. Thank You for your commments. Denny at Pelican Parts   perla Comments: Hi,I have a 99 Boxster and I need to replace the oil separator ASAP because of bad performance and a popping noise when the car is cold. However, Where do I find the updated connecting house mentioned?'If you are replacing your air-oil separator with a new one, be sure to install the updated connecting hose as well.'Thank you March 7, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Pelican Parts can supply the hose you need. Denny at Pelican Parts   beeper71IR Comments: Wayne, My 98 boxster just turned 64K and I started hearing an intermittent chirping noise that I think is the oil/air separator going bad, everything I've read indicates a squelling noise, sny suggestions about how to confirm. March 2, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a diagnostic procedure in the AOS replacement article that requires checking crankcase vacuum. You can test your AOS using that procedure. With your stated mileage it would be a good idea to replace yous even if it has not failed yet. Denny at Pelican Parts   Chris Comments: I kind of feel 'conned' by the pictures in Wayne's book and in the tech article on replacing the air / oil separator. I have a 2001 Tiptronic Boxster and there is literally no way to get at the separator from underneath the car. It took me 10 minutes to be able to even see it! My mechanic last time said he would remove the engine to make the replacement and I thought from long experience with VWs that he was probably doing it for convenience not necessity.The tech article and book ought to note that there is a world of difference in the structure under the car with the Tiptronic and this is not a DIY project for the home garage... February 24, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes it's difficult to get to the AOS from underneath the car with the automatic transmission installed. However, you can indeed replace it from the top of the car - it's just a little bit more difficult. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Chris Comments: Be careful removing the unit. The flexible plastic tube connecting to the intake on the top of the separator can be very brittle from the engine heat over the years. Mine broke clear through almost as soon as I removed the clip to the separator. If you're reading this now before ordering parts, it may not be a bad idea to order this tube. I wish I had. February 11, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for your comments. I recommend replacing the hoses and tube when replacing the valve. Oil, Oil vapor and age does make these items brittle over time. Denny at Pelican Parts   jolujaper Comments: I just got this done and it made quite a difference. Before I use to get large amounts of smoke at start up and a nonstop amount of smoke after the car was warmed up. I had O2 sensor failures and misfiring engine codes. Its been a week now and had not had anymore of those issues. It was quite a a task though.One problem I have is that I damaged the thread of the hole where it mounts to. Does anyone know what threaded insert threaded need as well as the pitch on the thread? I measured the outside diameter of the screw thread and it was .233' which is about 6mm, and that's all I know any help is well appreciated it. February 7, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is a 6MM X 1.0 thread. I would recommed trying to retap the threads first. If that does not secure the bolt you will have to use a threaded insert or helicoil for repair. Denny at Pelican Parts   bala Comments: Removing the hose purple arrow can be a pain as there are so many obstructions. Best way is to disconnect the two bolts that attach the AOS to the engine and also the bellow at the bottom. This will allow you to lift up the AOS from the top and give you enough room to squeeze the clamp and remove the hose. I also followed recommendations to replace the hose clamp for the bellow and the J tube to a screw type. Much easier to work with. January 14, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for your comments. Denny at Pelican Parts   grizzlyalan Comments: Greetings Wayne. I have just experienced this problem with a 2001 boxster. Excessive smoke and CEL. shut down as soon as light came on and now engine will not turn over. Could the engine have ingested too much oil and just be hydraulic locked or or do you think it could be worse? Thanks January 6, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If too much oil entered the combustion chambers it could cause your engine not to turn over. I would recommend removing your spark plugs and then try turning the engine a few revolutions. It it does not rotate then your problems are deeper than a failed AOS. Denny at Pelican Parts   pdafoe Comments: Do you have any info on the air oil separator in an 2007 997 3.8L car, i have one that has 10'hg vacuum at the oil cap, huge amounts of smoke on sartup January 4, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The AOS has similar problems to the earlier models. Give our parts specialists a call, they will help you find the right parts: 888-280-7799 - Nick at Pelican Parts   richth96 Comments: Great info...wish i had read this before i took it into my porsche shop $$$. but now i am getting a light smoke that comes out of the passenger side air intake area that leaves a black residue. i have had something similar happen when my water pump went out and it melted some belt. could this be the same issue? any ideas or help before i take it into my shop? January 3, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I suspect the smoke is caused by an oil or water leak. The black residue could be from another belt or drive failure. I would diagnose and repair what ever the cause is ASAP. Denny at Pelican Parts   ptracer Comments: Thanks for this thread Wayne. Very good stuff and saved me a bunch 'o money.One more question. I read that 100 - 200 miles of driving should help burn off all the unwanted oil in the intake/motor/exhaust. I'd really like to help this along 'cause the exhaust still stinks especially after it's been warmed up. Could you recommend a fuel additive to help remove all the gunk that will be safe to use in my precious Porsche? Thanks. January 1, 2012   Followup from the Pelican Staff: The stuff that you need to burn off is in the intake. Other than disassembling the entire intake and cleaning it out, I don't see a shortcut on this one. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Kimberboy Comments: Going through a corner hard on the gas and pulling a lot of G's I noticed a large cloud of blue smoke was following me and although during wartime that can be used as cover, but probably not a standard Porsche design. Is that likely to be a bad air/oil separator? Little or no vacumn detected when removing the oil filler cap, with engine running. December 3, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be a sign of a failing air-oil separator, or it could just be normal operation for a street component (the separator). Porsche has a separate motorsports air-oil separator that they supply that is used in on-track cars where the G-forces will be higher. If you're going to be driving your car hard, then you might want to look into installing one of these. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Harry Kamaltow Comments: I have an original AOS still installed with no problems, car has 70k on it should I replace it? Or is it good to go?Thanks HK November 30, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you're not experiencing any of the known issues with the unit (high vacuum, smoking, etc.), then I wouldn't worry about it until it fails. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   franco Comments: I have 1999 boxster monday the engine light came on and the car died.I had it towed home and it will start, but it willnot run properly. It makes loud noises, Have any idea.It's been running perfect for around 14 months. No warning atall. No oil leaks. November 2, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: You need to check the fuel injection trouble codes using a code reader. Check out our article on the subject (in the tech articles section). Without knowing this information, you're just guessing blindly. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   matt Comments: When you replace the AOS, do you recommend replacing the o ring on the bottom right angled connection into the right side of the engine? part number 996 107 122 00.Also, I changed my AOS a few months ago, but i am again getting smoke on start up. I disconnected the line from the AOS to the intake & found oil. Could the new AOS be faulty, have there been a bad batch or is it some other problem in my car? October 5, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sure, it's a smart idea to replace the o-rings on all of the connections that you've disturbed. If there is a big vacuum pull from your engine, it will cause air oil separator units to fail prematurely. Too much vacuum can be caused by a broken / stuck crankcase ventilation valve. I would check that it's not pulling too much vacuum on your engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Carlos Comments: Does anyone know the part number for the plastic tube that connects to the bottom of the AOS? It's the tube with the purple arrow pointing to it in figure 3. September 8, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: On the Boxster 986, this bellows is part number 996-107-237-52. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Angel Comments: Hi, today coming from work my 01 Boxster non S started smoking real bad I stopped the car right away and towed it home cause I knew the AOS went bad. But when I got home and started it up I heard a bad noise in the engine. Is there something else wrong with the engine? Should I go ahead and replace the AOS and pray and start it up? Pleas help me out I just retired from the NAVY and dont need this right now August 22, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Okay, don't panic. When the air-oil separator fails, it pulls a huge vacuum on the engine, when then can cause odd noises to happen. Most common is a whistling noise as air is drawn into the engine past slightly leaky seals. Odd behavior. Here's what you can do to test - remove the small hose that connects the AOS and the throttle body and plug both ends. Then run the engine and see if the noise is still there. If yes, then you probably have other problems. If no, then it's probably the AOS. Only run the engine for a short time in this configuration, as the piston rings work best and expect the engine crankcase vacuum to be at a significant level when running. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Colin Comments: I'm confused... I searched Pelican Parts for an AOS for my 2002 Boxster S and ordered part #996-107-080-54-OEM based upon he search results. I also ordered you 101 projects book. In the book it mentions that I may need a new hose as the existing one may be to short. So I came to the project site to see if it had a parts list to find the correct hose part. The project list says I should order part #996-107-023-04-M100. Both parts are listed as Genuine Porsche parts for an AOS for a 02 Boxster S. Can you help? Do I have the right part? Do I need any additional parts? Thank you for any assistance you can provide! August 16, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call: 888-280-7799 They will help sort the part numbers. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ricey Comments: My car is smokin!!! White smoke pouring out of it for the first 10 minutes. When I open the oil cap there is a vacuum. There is old oil all around the AOS Can you do damage driving like that and should you replace the J Tube with the AOS? July 27, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's not good for the catalytic converters to be subjected to oil like that. In general, you won't do too much permanent harm if you only drive it for a little bit. But, I would get it replaced as soon as possible. If you're talking about the tube that connects the AOS to the throttle body, see if yours fits first and then get the updated one if you need it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   paolo g Comments: everytime i start my boxster from a cold start i hear a clinging metal rattling sound near the exhaust system i hear the sound only when starting but not when running, and when it heats up and i start again, its gone. my mechanic said change the oil separator, what do you think guys? July 10, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's nearly impossible to diagnose problems like these over the Internet, but if I were to take a wild guess, I would say that there's something loose in the exhaust that is causing the rattle. Probably pretty minor, but it is annoying though. I have an exhaust rattle in my Boxster right now - I think it's one of the heat shields. When the car is cold you might want to get under there and literally poke around with your hands to see if you can feel if any of the shields or pipes are loose. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Jim Comments: I just replaced the AOS however, it still bellows a huge amount of smoke and the rough idle. Can you give me some suggestions?Update, thank you for the great DYI info. After replacing the AOS I started the car while still on the jack. My 16 yr old son said that maybe if it is a flat 6 and on the angle of the jack the oil is in the pistons. Bingo! He has been begging me to teach him how to drive the porsche and I think he just earned his ride. July 9, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that will happen perhaps. More likely is that the oil is still saturated inside of the intake and will need a few miles to 'blow itself out.' It's very common to have significant amounts of smoke upon startup after replacing the air-oil separator on the top of the engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   MIB24 Comments: Hi... I track my 2002 Boxster S quite a bit and am regularly getting the plumes of smoke. The solution seems to be the performance aos. My mechanic got one for me to find out that the mounts are different. We learned that the design changed in the 2003 my. Now we're trying to figure out how to make it work. Any suggestions? Thanks very much. June 23, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, as I'm not aware of a change in the motorsports unit that doesn't allow it to mount properly. I'll copy this question to the forums, where a bunch of people have done this upgrade. Perhaps they will have some suggestions for you. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   matt Comments: G'day,Do you have any images of the other end of the line to the crankcase? Where does it attach? Is there a vent line associated with this line has a spring inside it near the crankcase attachment?Sorry, disregard the image request, I found one in your online parts catalogue 996-107-047-51-M100. I am trying to work out how this part, with a small vent? port works.Cheers, great site & forums! April 15, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. I'm not sure I completely understand the question - I will copy this to the forums where we can discuss it there... - Wayne at Pelican Parts   kris Comments: hi my 2000 boxster says 996 on the engine case is this the right one? March 6, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the Boxster was developed in conjunction with the 'new' 911 at the time (the 996), and as such, they share a tremendous number of technologies and parts. It's very common to see part numbers starting with '996' on Boxster parts. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Moe Comments: I just replaced my oil separator on my 2005 Boxster last week according to your instructions thanks much. But a few days later I noticed the Check Engine Light came on and stays on even though everything seems to be running fine and no unusual sounds are present. Does it just need to be reset or could there be a related issue? February 21, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be one of two things that I can think of off the top of my head. Firstly, the oil that came out of the air-oil separator may have been sucked into the intake and has gummed up the intake and possibly the MAF sensor. I would check out my tech article on this and clean it out and/or possibly replace it if it's covered in a thin film of oil. Secondly, if the air-oil separator is not installed properly, then you may have a vacuum leak, which could potentially cause some codes to trip. You need to figure out what code is triggering - you can do that with a code reader - see my article on reading codes too: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/20-FUEL-Code_Reading/20-FUEL-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts   aahighfly Comments: I have replaced two air oil separators on my 2001 Boxster in 71k miles. The second one lasted 4 years and 20k miles. It displayed the typical rough idle/smoke at start up/ CEL light. I have the defective separator on my bench and air move freely through it from all ports. What component inside goes bad? My mechanic says my short infrequent trips and long 5000 mile interval oil changes are to blame February 19, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I haven't taken one of these apart yet, but I suppose that I should to better understand exactly how they work. The purpose of the device is to pull vapors using the vacuum of the intake, without pulling the oil from the sump into the intake. When they fail, the oil gets sucked into the intake, and you can feel a big vacuum draw on the oil cap when you try to remove it with the engine running. I believe that there is a diaphragm of some type in the device (like a filter) that sucks air but blocks oil. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   ant Comments: the test done with motor runing could not remove oil filler cap,huge amount vacume, may i loosen or remove oil filler cap to drive car to dealer 50 kms away or must i have boxster towed to dealer. February 10, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yup, that's a classic air-oil separator issue. You should be okay to drive the car to the dealer, I would just keep the rpms low, and drive cautiously. The failure of the separator means that the engine may be sucking oil into the intake. You might want to have them change out the spark plugs too while the car is there. Or, you can simply perform the replacement yourself using my handy article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Longstar Comments: I've just had my air-oil seperator replaced - unfortunately this was after the massive cloud of smoke. My local garage here in the UK have run compression tests to confirm that the engine is still okay. But even after switching in a new air mass meter the car is very much down on power and hestitating - they've advised me to run the car for a while and see if it'll burn off the oil that most likely is corrupting the readings on the exhaust sensors and or catalytic converters.My question is, is this a possiblity or should i be prepared to have to replace those parts? January 11, 2011   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you should run the car for about 100-200 miles and re-evaluate. It will take time to burn all of that crap out of there. You might want to clean out the throttle body too to help it along. After that, it *should* come back to normal. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Hal Comments: When I cleaned my Throttle Body the air-oil seperator looked clean and in good shape. I tried the 'remove the oil cap test' with my hand and there is a vacuum, it's not super strong but definitely there. The idle goes up when I do that, I assume that is normal. The reason I ask all this is I was reading where I thought someone said there should be no vacuum which seemed odd to me. I guess I can try it on the Benz. December 24, 2010   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, it is perfectly normal to have some crankcase vacuum in the engine. When you remove the oil cap in the rear trunk of the car, the engine idle should dip down a bit - it will not run properly with the oil cap removed, or a leak on the oil cap seal. Sounds like what you have here is 100% typical and normal. - Wayne at Pelican Parts   RickE Comments: Hi,In the second paragraph up from the bottom gray boxes it says ...intake maifold yellow arrow, Figure 1....It should be figure 2 since that is where the yellow arrow points to the intake hose. Just want to help. Waiting for the book. October 21, 2010   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Cool, thanks. The book comes out next month! (December 2010) - Wayne at Pelican Parts   Got more questions? Join us in our Porsche Boxter (Boxter 986/987) Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts. Or, see what other questions readers have asked about this article... Applies to: 1997 Boxster, 1998 Boxster, 1999 Boxster, 2000 Boxster, 2001 Boxster, 2002 Boxster, 2003 Boxster, 2004 Boxster, 2005 Boxster, 2006 Boxster, 2007 Boxster, 2008 Boxster, 1999 Carrera, 1999 996, 2000 Carrera, 2000 996, 2001 Carrera, 2001 996, 2002 Carrera, 2002 996, 2003 Carrera, 2003 996, 2004 Carrera, 2004 996, 2005 Carrera, 2005 997, 2006 Carrera, 2006 997, 2007 Carrera, 2007 996, 2008 Carrera, 2008 997 PARTS CATALOG Porsche BMW Mercedes-Benz Audi Volkswagen Saab Volvo MINI QUICK LINKS About Us Careers Pelican Parts, LLC 1600 240th Street Harbor City, CA 90710 Order Online or Call:888-280-7799 CUSTOMER SERVICE Shopping Cart Track Your Order Project / Wish List Browse Shipping Options View Shipping FAQ See Our Return Policy Live Chat Contact Us CONNECT WITH US NEWSLETTER Sign Up for Pelican Pit Stop News & Special Offers By subscribing, you agree to the Pelican Parts privacy policy and terms of use. Copyright © 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page Cart Project List Order Status Help This site was designed and produced solely by Pelican Parts. Pelican Parts is not associated with Porsche Cars North America in any manner, except for a mutual appreciation and love of the cars. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures. By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within.   Close this window               Page last updated: Thu 4/11/2019 01:43:38 AM [ID:]Wayne R. Dempsey Time: 3 hours3 hrs Tab: $130 to $165 Talent: **** Tools: All of them Applicable Models: Porsche 996 Carrera models (1999-05)Porsche 997 Carrera models (2005-08) Parts Required: New oil separator Hot Tip: Take your time and make sure you don't drop anything down into the engine Performance Gain: No more smoke Complementary Modification: Change the oil   Need to buy parts for this project?Click here to order! The engine air-oil separator is an emissions device that is responsible for collecting residual gases and vapors contained inside the crankcase and funneling them back into the intake manifold where they can be burned in the combustion chamber. This reduces the overall emissions of the engine.On the 1998-2005 Carreras, the engine air-oil separator is located at the top left rear corner of the engine. For the 2006-2008 Carreras, Porsche redesigned the system and moved the AOS to the top of the engine under the right side intake.When the separator fails, you will begin to see a large increase in the overall vacuum in the engine crankcase. In the most extreme cases, the air-oil separator fails to separate the oil from the air, and oil is then sucked into the intake manifold. Oil in the intake system is not healthy for the engine and it can foul spark plugs and destroy catalytic converters at the very least. The failure of the air-oil separator is often but not always, accompanied by huge amounts of white smoke exiting the vehicle's exhaust and a generally poor running engine. You may experience a check engine light (CEL) as the oil being drawn into the intake can affect the mixture level. The oil cap may be very difficult to remove when the engine is running due to high vacuum levels. In addition, you may hear a high-pitched squeal from the engine when it's running because air is being sucked in past the crankcase seal due to the extreme vacuum inside the case.The proper method to test for the failure of the unit is to measure the engine crankcase vacuum with a slack tube manometer. Normal crankcase pressure, measured at the oil filler cap ranges from about 4-7 inches of water (drill a hole in the top of an old oil filler cap and attach the gauge there). When the air-oil separator fails, the intake manifold vacuum will draw into the crankcase and the levels will reach 9-12 inches or more. If you don't have a slack tube manometer (most of us don't), then you can use a standard vacuum gauge and/or get a rough feel for the level of vacuum pulled by comparing it to a normal running car.On the pre 2006 cars here are basically two ways to change the oil separator. The easiest is to drop the engine out of the car. This allows you full access to the lines and connections of the separator. The other method is to remove the separator with the engine in the car. It's a bit daunting, but we have come up with a method for removing it. On the 2006 and later cars Porsche redesigned the AOS, and while it is still easier to do this with the engine out of the car, it is a lot easier than performing the work on an earlier car.Begin by first disconnecting the battery. You'll be working around the starter motor and there is always a 12V load going to the starter motor. If you accidentally touch it, you can injure yourself or cause a variety of problems with the car's electrical system. Be safe, take the extra time to disconnect it. Another good tip here is to use Ziploc bags to neatly hold all of the various nuts and bolts you will be removing from the engine.Open the engine lid and begin by removing the airbox. Loosen and remove the 13mm bolt at the very front of the airbox (996), and the hose clamp holding the boot to the throttle body. You'll also have to unplug the connector to the MAF by squeezing the connector. Now pull the boot off the throttle body and remove the airbox from the engine bay (on 3.8L cars and you will have to remove the electrical connection attached to the vacuum line for the resonance valve).In order to access the oil separator, a lot of stuff has to come off the engine. First remove the throttle body. The throttle body is held in place on the intake plenums by four 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut attached to an eccentric bracket at the bottom. Remove all four bolts, taking care not to drop the bolts into the engine bay. You'll now need to disconnect either the throttle cable (on early cars) or the electrical connector for the throttle (on later cars). The throttle cable ferrule runs along a plastic cam on the side of the throttle body. If you manually open the throttle, the cable tension will go slack, allowing you to unhook the ferrule from the shoulder in the plastic cam. On cars with electronic throttle bodies, simply unhook the electrical connector.On the earlier cars rotate the throttle body over to access the hose connection on the backside. Use a pair of pliers to loosen and remove the hose clamp holding the hose onto the throttle body. Don't forget to pull the O-ring out of the intake plenum that seals the throttle body. Now set the throttle body aside in a safe place.Once the throttle body is removed, you'll need to remove the intake plenums. While the Porsche technical manual recommends that you remove both plenums, for the 2006 and later Carreras I recommend what I have found to be an easier way. You only need to remove both plenums if you are going to remove the AOS from the top of the engine, but by removing the two T30 screws on the AOS mount, you can swing it out of the way and remove the separator through where the A/C compressor use to be. If you need to remove the second plenum for additional work then you will not need to move the separator mount, but it is a very tight fit on the second plenum, and I have found removing the mount screws easier.Begin by removing the air hose connection to the oil separator. Squeeze the black plastic connector to disconnect the hose from the plenum. Once free, set the hose connection aside. Now loosen the hose clamps securing the plenum to each manifold. A good idea here is to loosen the inner hose clamps first and then rotate the plenum to help break the seal that may have formed between the rubber, then tighten the inner and loosen the outer clamps and do the same to break the connection between the rubber seals and the intake manifolds. Sometimes they can stick together making removal a bit difficult and this will help free them up. As you will note there is not much room to work and anything that makes it easier will help. Remove the front plenum only after the left intake manifold is loosened/unseated. Slide the rubber seals onto the plenum and wiggle the plenum out. Once the front plenum is removed, follow the same procedures and remove the rear plenum from the engine bay (this is for the 1998-2005 cars only as you do not need to remove the second plenum in the later cars if you loosen the AOS mount).At this point we are going to break the instructions down for the 1998-2005 Carreras and the 2006-2008 Carreras.(1998-2005 Carreras) Remove the two 8mm screws holding the hose connection to the front of the left intake manifold. These screws also hold the retaining plate for a vacuum solenoid at the left of the hose connection. Once free, maneuver the hose, plate and solenoid up and out of the way.It is a good idea to look around the engine bay for anything that may be hanging up, or any loose nuts or bolts. The last thing you need is to drop a stray bolt down into the cylinder head. Take a little extra time and be patient.Now comes the hardest part of the job, removing the small Torx bolts that hold the intake manifold to the cylinder head. I've found that a combination of 1/4' drive extensions and U-joints really help out here. The key here is to have enough clearance. The other really helpful step is to remove the coolant tank from the car. You won't have a lot of room to work with, unfortunately. One handy tip is to loosen each bolt to the point where they can be pulled out of the manifold, then use a telescoping magnet to keep from dropping them in the engine bay. Also take note of the accessory bracket on the very front of the intake manifold. Don't forget to re-install this later.Now carefully pull the intake manifold off the cylinder head. You'll also have to route the vacuum hoses and wiring harnesses over the manifold as you pull the manifold out of the engine bay. As soon as you get the manifold off, stuff rags or paper towels down into the cylinder head ports. This is good insurance against foreign objects falling into the motor.At this point, you will have access to the top of the oil separator. Squeeze the black plastic connector to release the vacuum connection from the oil separator.Now jack up the rear of the car and secure it on jackstands. If you aren't sure how to do this, please refer to our article on jacking up your 996 (Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up Your Porsche 911 Carrera). Slide under the car and locate the bottom of the oil separator. It will be located on the left side of the engine, right where the transmission and engine mate up to each other.You see a few different connections below. The first thing to disconnect is the bellows on the underside of the oil separator. Removing this hose clamp can be rather frustrating because of the amount of clearance you have in-between the separator and the crossbeam under the engine. After you have removed the hose clamp, pull the bellows down and off the bottom of the separator. Now squeeze the black plastic connector above the bellows to release the vacuum hose connection. As with the bellows, this will be a tight fit.Once both of the connections are off, remove the two 13mm bolts holding the separator to the engine and carefully pry the separator off the engine. As you pull the separator off, you'll see the nipple piece that extends into the engine.Installation is the reverse of removal. DO NOT forget to remove the rags from the intakes before re-installing the plenums!(2006-2008 Carreras) For the 2006-2008 Carreras, you are going to be removing the air conditioning compressor and power steering reservoir. To do this you will first have to remove the accessory belt. To release the tension on the belt attach a 24mm socket to a breaker bar, place it on the idler arm and turn it clockwise (see Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Belts on the Porsche 911 Carrera). After you have removed the accessory belt you will need to remove the power steering reservoir on the right side of the engine. Open the power steering fluid reservoir and use either a syringe or turkey baster to suction out as much of the power steering fluid as you can. Once the reservoir is empty, remove the 10mm nut securing the reservoir to the bracket, then rotate the bayonet lock tab counter-clockwise to remove the power steering fluid reservoir from the car.The next step is to remove the A/C Compressor from the engine with the lines still attached. The compressor is held in place by three long 13mm bolts. Remove the two front bolts along the front edge. In order to get to the remaining A/C Compressor mounting bolt, you'll need to remove the temperature sensor mounted in the right (passenger) side manifold, in between the first set of runners. The sensor sits in a rubber sleeve that fits into a groove on the intake manifold. It's difficult to see it, but it will slide out to the right.You can now access the remaining compressor bolt from in between the intake manifold. You'll need a combination of extensions and U joints. The long bolt needs to be held in it upward position to remove the compressor. Once the compressor is free, unplug the electrical ground connector. After the compressor is removed, lay down a rag or towel to protect the paint of the car and lay the compressor off to the side of the engine.Once the compressor is out of the way you will have lots of room to reach in and remove the two lines coming from each cylinder bank and the line going from the AOS to the intake plenum. There are also two water lines that need to be removed. There will be some coolant that spills out so be ready with some rags. If the lines are original to the car don't loosen the separator yet as you may have to tug a little to get them off.Once the lines are separated and you have cleaned up any spilled coolant, you can remove the AOS. Reach in from the right side where it is mounted to a bracket by two T20 torx screws. After you have removed the screws you just wiggle the AOS up and out of its bracket. Move the AOS aside and remove the two T30 Torx screws holding the bracket to the engine. You will not be able to fully remove the bracket because it is secured by the air conditioning compressor mounting spacer, but with the screws removed you will be able to swing it out of the way. This will give you plenty of room to remove and reinstall the Air Oil Separator. Keep an eye on how much coolant spilled and make sure to check your coolant level when finished to top it up.(1998-2008 Common procedures) Figure 1 Shown here is a new oil separator for the (Picture 2005:) 996 and first year 997. Lower left insert is the Picture 2008: AOS. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 2 Open the engine decklid and remove the airbox. Begin by loosening the hose clamp holding the boot to the throttle body (green arrow), then squeeze the tabs on the MAF connector to release it (yellow arrows). Now open the harness holder clip (purple arrow). Pull the oil filler tub up and out of its clip on the airbox. (blue arrow) and finally unbolt the 13mm bolt holding the airbox inside the engine compartment (red arrow) and carefully lift the airbox out of the car. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 3 Remove the four 10mm bolts (green arrows) and also the 10mm nut (purple arrow) holding the throttle body to the engine. At the same time, also remove the electrical connector going to the throttle position sensor (yellow arrow). Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 4 If you have an early car with a throttle cable, rotate the throttle back enough to relieve tension on the throttle cable and slip it out of the plastic cable cam as shown here. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 5 (Older cars only) Rotate the throttle body over to access the hose connection on the backside. On the older cars use a pair of pliers to loosen and remove the hose clamp holding the hose onto the throttle body. Don't forget to pull the O-ring out of the intake plenum that seals the throttle body to it. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 6 (Older cars only) Follow the hose connection coming off the throttle body back to the control solenoid and press the wire piece in to release the electrical connector. Now place the hose/solenoid assembly off to the side. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 7 Once the throttle body is removed, you'll need to remove the intake plenums. Begin by removing the air hose connection to the oil separator. Squeeze the black plastic connector (purple arrow) to disconnect the hose from the plenum. Once free, set the hose connection aside. Now loosen the hose clamps securing the plenum to each manifold (green arrows). A good idea here is to loosen the inner hose clamps first and then rotate the plenum to help break the seal that may have formed between the rubber, then tighten the inner and loosen the outer clamps and do the same to break the connection between the rubber seals and the intake manifolds. Sometimes they can stick together making removal a bit difficult and this will help free them up. As you will note there is not much room to work and anything that makes it easier will help. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 8 Once the hose clamps are loose, you should be able to push the intake seals onto the plenum, then slide the plenum over to one side and pull it free of the manifold as shown here. (Picture 2005: Carreras only) Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 9 Now remove the rear intake plenum tube. Like the front one, loosen the hose clamps, then push the plenum over to one side. Once removed, pull the vacuum hose off the connection to the resonance flap inside the rear plenum. The idea here is to gain as much space as possible inside the engine bay. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 10 Remove the two 8mm screws holding the hose connection to the left intake manifold. These screws also hold the retaining plate for the vacuum solenoid shown here just to the left. Once free, maneuver the hose, plate and solenoid up and out of the way. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 11 Now it's time to remove the left intake manifold. In thisPicture, we have a 996 engine out of the car to show the location of the six Torx bolts that hold the manifold to the engine (green arrows) Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 12 As you can see here, clearance is the biggest problem with removing the bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine. In thisPicture, you can see that the coolant tank has been removed to provide even more access to the manifold bolts (Pelican Technical Article: Coolant Tank Replacement - Porsche 911 Carrera). The key here is patience. I've found that a combination of U-joints and extensions help out quite a bit when removing the bolts. Take your time and you should be able to get all of them out. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 13 Be sure to remember to set aside the bracket at the front of the intake manifold. This is one of those little things that is easy to forget when re-assembling the motor. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 14 With all the bolts removed, carefully maneuver the intake manifold out from under the fuel lines and wiring harness. As soon as you get the manifold out, be sure to stuff some rags or paper towels into the cylinder heads to prevent any dirt or loose objects from falling in. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 15 With the intake manifold removed you now have access to the oil separator at the very back of the engine. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 16 Squeeze the connector on the upper part of the oil separator to release the hose connection as shown here. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 17 Now, support the car on jackstands and climb underneath the car. In thisPicture you can see the oil separator (green arrow) as it bolts to the side of the engine case near the transmission (red arrow). Begin by removing the hose clamp holding the rubber bellows to the bottom of the oil separator and pull it off. Next, squeeze the quick disconnect fitting on the vacuum hose (purple arrow) to remove it from the oil separator. The final step is to remove the two 13mm bolts holding the separator to the engine case (yellow arrows). (Picture 2008: Carreras only: This work was preformed on a crate engine we had at Pelican, to better show the location of everything, but can be done easily with the engine in the car) Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 18 For the later cars with the newer style AOS you will need to remove the both the power steering reservoir and the air conditioning compressor with its lines attached. To do this you will first have to remove the accessories belt. To release the tension on the belt attach a 24mm socket to a breaker bar, place it on the idler arm and turn it clockwise (see Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Belts on the Porsche 911 Carrera). To remove the power steering pump first use a fluid pump or turkey baster to suck out as much power steering fluid as possible. Once the reservoir is empty, remove the 10mm nut securing the reservoir to the bracket (yellow arrow), then rotate the bayonet lock tab counter-clockwise to remove the power steering fluid reservoir from the car. The compressor is held in place by three long 13mm bolts. Remove the two front bolts along the front edge (red arrows). In order to get to the remaining a/c compressor mounting bolt, you'll first need to remove the temperature sensor mounted in the right (passenger) side manifold, in between the first set of runners (blue arrow). The sensor sits in a rubber sleeve that fits into a groove on the intake manifold. It's difficult to see it, but it will slide out. You can now access the remaining compressor bolt from in between the intake manifold (purple arrow). You'll need a combination of extensions and U joints. This bolt needs to be held in its upward position to remove the compressor. Once the compressor is free, unplug the electrical ground connector (green arrow), lay down a rag or towel to protect the paint of the car and lay the compressor off to the side of the engine. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 19 Here is the AOS with the power steering reservoir and first intake plenum removed (the a/c compressor is still in place). You can see the three vacuum lines (red arrows) and the two water lines (blue arrows) that need to be removed. Just push in on the blue clip and slide the water lines off. There will be a little coolant that spills out when you remove the water lines, keep an eye on approximately how much spills so you will have an idea of how much to replace later. The AOS sits in a tube that connects directly to the crankcase, be sure to clean up all the coolant before removing the AOS so nothing can get into the case. The green arrow shows where the power steering reservoir was connected. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 20 ThisPicture shows the Air Oil Separator with the air conditioner compressor removed. If you are working on your earlier car and happen to be reading this to see the difference, you might be a little jealous at how much easier it is to remove on the later models. The AOS is shown by the red arrow, while the yellow arrows show where the bolts that hold the a/c compressor go. Large Image | Extra-Large Image Figure 21 The AOS has been removed from, but is sitting on its mount in thisPicture. The blue arrow shows the opening to the crank where it sits. Make sure to place a clean rag in here so nothing can get into the crankcase while you are working. The two T20 Torx screws that hold the AOS to the mount (yellow arrows) and the two T30 Torx screws (red arrows) that hold the mount to the engine case have been removed. You do not need to remove these screws if you have removed the second plenum as there will be room to remove the AOS from the top of the engine. Upper left insert is the air oil separator. Large Image | Extra-Large Image   Need to buy parts for this project?Click here to order! Comments and Suggestions: dario Comments: I described my question on the previous post but I found a perfect picture to show it. How do I get the AOS vent line out if it doesn't make it through the intake manifold? March 13, 2019   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be able to feed out once detached at each end. if not, the manifold will have to be removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts   dario Comments: The AOS vent line on my car goes through the intake manifold. How do I remove the AOS vent line? It's a corrugated vent line with a elbow connector at the end. I removed the elbow connector from the engine but the connector does not fit on the spaces on the intake manifold... I made a drawing to explain it better. Mine ended up breaking off but I am wondering how I am going to install the replacement. Thanks! March 13, 2019   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be able to feed out once detached at each end. if not, the manifold will have to be removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts   JB997s Comments: Hi, I have an 05 Porsche 911 S coupe and i just change the plugs with new 6 ngk spark plugs and six ignition coils because the CEL code read a multi misfire on 1 and 3 cylinder. this happen when i accelerated hard on take off, when i remove the old spark plugs, i notice some oil on the the threads of the spark plugs and is this a sign normal for the 911 s with 92,000 miles ? if the car sits a while a white smoke comes out off the exhaust. Do i need a new AOS or a new cylinder head gasket ? CEL code is gone now after removing the battery but the dash read systems failure take to workshop. November 8, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Oil on plugs is a leak, you'll want to check the valve covers. White smoke is likely coolant. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. Also check the DME for fault codes.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Mriguy Comments: I recently purchased a 2002 C4 automatic with 107000 miles. There was a lot of smoke on some cold starts and also on some hard accelerations from a stop. I had the IMS and AOS replaced and the tech said the RMS had a slight leak so we replaced it. After driving less then 500 miles I noticed oil on my garage floor and after driving a few miles there was a steady stream of oil coming out. The tech said the RMS came loose so they replaced it. After a few drives the smoke came back when starting and hard accelerating from a stop. When they went to replace the AOS they said it did not look like it failed but they replaced it anyway. They said the first AOS was Porsche OEM and the second time they used an after market one. I took it on a few drives of about 50 miles and didn't rev it hard or drive fast and there was no smoke. Next time I drove it harder with high rev shifts and speeds over 100 mph. After 20 miles of this I accelerated hard from a stop and now huge cloud of smoke. Parked and in the morning there's a two foot oil patch under the rear passenger side. There's oil all over the back of the car, primary on the passenger side and passenger exhaust pipe has some oil and none on the drivers side. July 17, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you developed a major leak or blew one of the lines off. I would inspect the AOS first, check if a line became detached. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Janet Comments: I have a 2002 cab 996 and all of a sudden a plume of white smoke from driver exhaust. No dash lights, all levels water and oil good. What could this be? July 5, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Oil separator or condensation in exhaust. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: thanx for your help . the car has no smoke now . it's been just sitting on my factory and i try to make all the smoke go out of the car .. i did it at midnight so neighbors don't think got fire or something . it took hours to get the smoke out . the smoke was so crazy. i know it was because of the air oil sep. i hammered the old part to make sure it was aos or not . yeah it's rubber had hole on it. definally aos bad.now my car has pasm error that makes car just stiff.. prob next job to do is change the struts .. June 8, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up!! - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: no sign of water leak .water tank stays same. but oil level broped 4/4 to 4/3 .. it means oil is leaking ..but no drops on the ground . any suggestion? June 2, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: If losing oil with no external leaks, it is burning it. So oil separator or worn engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: i mean the amount of the smoke is like the video . when i open the hood no sign of going down coolant no sign of smoke from engine just exhuast May 26, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Understood. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: the car is exactly same ashttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g66Jw4Vt-fw some saab car from youtube video .. need helpa lot of smoke like movies May 26, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Replied to earlier post. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: by the way car is 2008 911 4s May 25, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   peter Comments: Ordered and replaced an AOS from Pelican parts due to excessive white smoke exiting exhaust like smoking machine...after chaging it. start up the car. but nothing has changed. the exhaust puffs a lot of excessive white smoke... need some help could it be because of vacuum hoses leak? or it's not because of aos.but something else go bad? i read the articles and white smoke is coolant water not oil? i want to fix it by my own.. due to bad economy.. May 25, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: White smoke is likely coolant. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.if it holds pressure, you may have excess oil the exhaust from the AOS and it needs to work its way out. - Nick at Pelican Parts   swampy 0512 Comments: Following your instruction I found it a lot easy'er van I expected to.you can loosen most of the intake six bolts with small spaners,Then remove with a ten mm socket on the end of 15 ins bendy tool. Many thanks for your brilliant picture instruction.Malcolm from Oxford England, May 20, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   swampy 0512 Comments: Hi Is it possible to drop the engine-Auto gear box from 2000 carera 4 just a little to gain better acess to air oip sep May 14, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's quite a bit of work to lower it enough to get more access. I always find it easier to work in the restricted space. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Zerpersande Comments: Levdeb from June 10, 2014... My AOS is supposed to look like yours don’t have it out yet and it does NOT attach to the engine like the others. There are two holes, one of which is visible in your photo, where the unit bolts to the engine. Myself, the first 5 bolts were no big deal. No fear of dropping them bc they are so long they stay in the holes if you are reasonably careful. That 6th one though... i have to get out my webcam and have a look back there. January 14, 2018   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Phil H Comments: By the way, is there a torque sequence for the manifold bolts? November 21, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have torque information.I would suggest you grab a repair manual, you should own one. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Phil H Comments: OK so I finally got the darn thing off but it battled to the very end! I wound up having to un-bolt it and cut the rubber bellows off the bottom of the AOS with a razor blade. Then pry it up so I could remove the one pinch clamp on the bottom left side. This allowed me to move it over enough to get to the rear most bolt on the manifold. Phew! November 21, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Phil H Comments: Hi Nick. I have a 2001 911 Cabrio with a tiptronic. I'm doing this job and have met with the same issue as 996fever. I can't get the rearmost hex head bold off the back of the manifold as the AOS is in the way. How do you partially remove it with the manifold still on? Thx in advance... November 19, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I recall using an open end wrench and slowly loosening it. Possible you may have to move the AOS out of the way you unbolt it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   996fever Comments: On my 2001 Cab it appears the large dome on the O/A Separator is actually interfering with getting at the rear 10mm bolt not torx head, all mine on my 2001 are hex bolts on the intake manifold. Can I go under the car and halfway remove the separator to get better access to this bolt? Any tips here anyone? July 21, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that should work. - Nick at Pelican Parts   996fever Comments: Hi. Can this process be done on a 2001 Cabriolet without removing the engine? Not sure if the cab has enough room? July 2, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Kal Comments: I'm almost done rebuilding my 997 from bare block. I need to know where the two lines off the Air Oil Separator go? *See pic attached. I read somewhere they could be coolant lines?? Why coolant? If so, where do they go? June 11, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: To the reservoir and the rad hose. Going by memory, not all models have those hoses. Also may be a fitting on the block. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ron Comments: So, I just needed more leverage. The new one is in. Is there any easy way to deal with the factory crimp on hose clamps on the small rubber hoses? I resorted to breaking off the fittings on the old AOS and removing it for access and still resorted to a hacksaw blade for the upper one. April 15, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Ron Comments: I have a clearance problem for removing the AOS from my '99 Carrera. I have the hoses disconnected and the bolts out but there is not room enough to pull out the tube going into the motor. There is a device in the way that appears to be something electrical and is bolted to the cylinder head adjacent to the camshaft. I haven't found anyone mentioning this problem and I have already changed the AOS on my '03 but that one is different. Any suggestions? April 14, 2017   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try rotating as you pull it down. - Nick at Pelican Parts   louisemon123 Comments: Hi. I have coolant in my oil, coolant coming out of the exhaust and white smoke there is no oil in the coolant, its only one way. I had the oil cooler changed as it failed a pressure test but that did not fix it. Could it be down to a faulty air oil separator? Its a 996 3.6 Carrera2. Any help is much appreciated. Regards Louise December 23, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: if it were oil cooler, there would be oil mix. You may have a faulty head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts   k8atu Comments: Question for you - If the engine is out anyway having a tranny rebuilt MY99 996 Tip Cab then would the AOS job still be a 5/6/7hour job? would imagine not, but the shop just quoted me 6 hours to do that work even with the engine out of the car? TIA Pelican! November 29, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. Then it would be much shorter. Maybe an hour. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jetman Comments: Ordered and replaced an AOS from Pelican parts approximately 2 months ago due to excessive smoke on acceleration. Oil residue was excessive in the entire intake system. 8-12 hour job removing it from the top, cleaning everything out and reinstalling the new parts including the AOS vent tubing, top and bottom. Well just drove it today and it's smoking excessively again. Very frustrated. Is this a sign of a defective external AOS or could the internal AOS'S be bad as well? It's also leaking oil from the bellows again and running down the front LH side of motor after replacing it with new parts and clamps. I've driven the vehicle approximately 400-500 miles since the AOS was replaced. All was fine through high revs and normal driving until today. As soon as I hit 5000 rpms, the problem returned. Literally looks like something out of James Bond movie. As soon as I let off the accelerator pedal, smoking subsided and continued driving for another 10 miles with no re-occurence. No oil residue or carbon buildup on the exhaust tips as before. Very puzzling. How often do the internal AOS's go bad? Or could it be that I have just installed a defective new AOS? November 18, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: if after a turn this can be normal under hard acceleration. if happened when driving normal, could be a fault or failing AOS, again. Unfortunately. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Jetman Comments: Ordered and replaced an AOS from Pelican parts approximately 2 months ago due to excessive smoke on acceleration. Oil residue was excessive in the entire intake system. 8-12 hour job removing it from the top, cleaning everything out and reinstalling the new parts including the AOS vent tubing, top and bottom. Well just drove it today and it's smoking excessively again. Very frustrated. Is this a sign of a defective external AOS or could the internal AOS'S be bad as well? It's also leaking oil from the bellows again and running down the front LH side of motor after replacing it with new parts and OEM clamps. Any info would be appreciated! November 18, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: When you say drove it again, are you driving it regularly? If not driven a ton after replacing the aos, it may smoke for a while until it is all clear. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Martin Comments: I just had what looked like a major engine failure, first a small amount of blue smoke, then when coming off the throttle massive amounts of white smoke. All the plugs were very oily and two cylinders had a cup full of oil in themfront right and rear left. Is this symptomatic of an AOS failure or should I also be looking elsewhere? November 16, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be, check the plugs for oil to confirm. White smoke is likely coolant. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Stephan_Porsche Comments: Replaced mine on my 2005 Carrera S 3.8L, took 4-hours from start to finish including a coffee break. Job was a lot easier then others online say it is, I also read and was told it would be 8-14 hours, I would have to remove Intake Manifold and Fuel Rail. I didn't even have to remove the P/S Pump, with the AC Compressor out of the way the AOS comes right out with no problem. November 13, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   jtrpin Comments: You state app 3 hr job. My Porsche mechanic advised that it would be 9 hrs, the extra time due to the collector tube which you do not mention. He states this is involved with every one that he does. Would like your input before I decide to go elsewhere. Thanks October 27, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Collection tube? Can you expand on what and where they said that is. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Brien Comments: Is it normal operating procedure to remove the alternator when replacing AOS and is it common that the brackets break on 02 Carrera October 25, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not common that it breaks. The alt coming out, it makes life easier when working inside the engine bay.- Nick at Pelican Parts   Steve Comments: I began following this article to replace the AOS on my 2006 911 C2. Since it's separated out for 1998-2005 and 2006-2008 models, I followed the latter set of instructions for my car. After removing the power steering reservoir and AC compressor and finding the AOS to be nowhere in sight, I located the AOS straight back behind the driver's side intake manifold. Going back to the instructions for 1998-2005 cars, I'm seeing some differences as well. There seem to be only 4 Torx bolts securing the intake manifold-not the 6 stated in these instructions. Is my MY2006 car some strange combination of the old and new component locations? October 17, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It depends on the engine code, possible you have the older one in a newer vehicle. Which would make it seem off a bit. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Hella-Buggin Comments: I'm reading a thread related to AOS failure and I see that someone posted a question that exactly describes my situation. MikeC4, in the comments section here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htmIs there anyway to put me in contact with him to see if and how he resolved it? June 12, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unfortunately not. You may need the motorsport part as well. - Nick at Pelican Parts   RJ Comments: thanks nick didn't realize cap locks were on when I typed that.it looked like I was yelling!haha February 11, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem. I assumed so. :) - Nick at Pelican Parts   RJ Comments: JUST CHANGED AIR OIL SEPERATOR ON A CUSTOMERS CAR. CHANGED OIL FIRED IT UP... STILL HAS SMOKE ON START UP... HAVENT CHECKED WITH MANOMETER BUT THERE IS STILL SUCKING WHEN TAKING OIL CAP OFF BUT OIL CAP IS NOT HARD TO GET OFF. COULD IT POSSIBLY BE BAD AIR OIL SEPERATOR? February 9, 2016   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be, or residual oil, which is very common. - Nick at Pelican Parts   911flat6er Comments: Any DIY suggestions for AOS replacement on 1987 3.2 911?Heard it's any engine removal job!!!!!!! December 8, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I recall that being the case. It is mounted tot he rear of the engine crankcase, so difficult to reach otherwise. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Aicedo Comments: I took my Carrera to a Porsche dealership because it was leaking coolant/antifreeze and I couldn't find the leak. They told me I needed to replace the AOS. Is this a symptom of AOS failure, or do I need to get a different diagnosis? November 12, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, some AOS units have coolant lines. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Hurdigurdiman Comments: as a PM move on my part, is there a rough estimate in mileage when the AOS goes bad? Say for instance as with the water pump going bad around 70,000 miles. My car has 76000 miles her now. No signs of a failing AOS as yet. Thanks for your reply. September 23, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Maybe at 100k replace it. Other than that, some last way longer than others. - Nick at Pelican Parts   MikeC4 Comments: Hey there, I had the AOS symptoms, replaced it everything looked great no more smoking, until I did about 6 hard laps on a local track and then the symptoms reappeared. I stopped my lapping day, and headed home the smoke was gone about 2 miles down the road and has not smoked again. When I take the oil filler cap off I hear the sucking noise again now. Can the AOS fail that quickly again?Should I have used a performance oriented AOS?Thanks August 9, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't imagine it would fail so quickly. If you are tracking the car, I would suggest the motorsports AOS. - Nick at Pelican Parts   FastFrank Comments: Nick, spot on, on the problem. My 2003 C4S spent 1.5 yrs in the garage because I thought I needed a new engine 168K miles- blowing white smoke. Live away from civilization Lancaster CA and finally had the $$ to get it fixed. Took it all the way to Newport Beach to a fantastic P-car Mech. He called me up and told me that I had a $1600 bill replaced the coolant tank as well instead of a $18K bill which I had planned for. I did the happy dance for two days! I am putting a new clutch, motor mounts, RMS and upgrading the dreaded IMS Bearing as well. So Happy!!! July 13, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Awesome. Thanks for the note. - Nick at Pelican Parts   whm Comments: My 2006 c2 has some white smoke on start up,but nothing after. Any ideas? June 22, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Make sure your car is not overfilled with engine oil. Could be the air oil separator. Take a look at your intake and if it is seeping engine oil, that is another sign that your AOS could be failing. Of course the definitive test is to check the crankcase vacuum on cold start. Should be pretty solid at 5' of water. - Casey at Pelican Parts   iditude Comments: I have none of those models of AOS on my car 2004 3.6 C4 996 I have this one : http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2014.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&model=5077§ion=engoil&page=6&bookmark=23&part_number=996-107-926-00-M100Can you advise where it is located and the process to change it? I 'think' it is the same as the old ones, but I am not sure. Thanks for helping June 14, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I feel like I keep answering this but it doesn't post! The replacement is VERY similar as long as this style AOS is already installed it is plug and play. - Casey at Pelican Parts   adam Comments: Just changed the oil air separator on my 996 carrera 1999. Car was runing before hand, but now it wont run. Its tries to fired up but backfires and stops? Any ideas? June 13, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: I have made this mistake before. Double check the accordion boot VERY closely. If it is not completely seated it will cause the car to do that. Also double check the other connections bit they don't usually cause that problem. - Casey at Pelican Parts   Chris Comments: Good morning Nick,I'm going to replace my oil separator as well but on Fig 12 are u using a 1/4' or 3/8' socket? Thanks and your article is excellent!CHris KSA April 19, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: 1/4' drive. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Randy Comments: Not sure if the AOS or Valve seals causing my '02 911 turbo to smoke blue smokeIt happens on acceleration, and then disappear, the idle speed also goes up and down when parked. If The AOS is the culprit, please give some info on this particular model. Thanks. April 3, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty oil separator or the level is too high. You can test crankcase pressure using a manometer. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Paul Comments: I recently replaced oil separator on my 2008 911 with 3.6L engine. According to this article, my was supposed to be behind AC compressor. After removing it I realized its not there, it was on driver side by the firewall. After removed driver side intake manifold which by the way was real pain, 1 bolt was just close to impossible to reach, took me 2 hours, I found out that bolt holding AOS are on the top of the engine, not on the bottom like the article says. So, my point is this acticle is not correct at all. My buddy got 05 carrera with the same engine - AOS is located at the same location as on my car. March 9, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated. - Nick at Pelican Parts   builder1 Comments: I am contemplating DIY this on my 2003 C4S. Not smoking yet, but I hear the whining noise. How much time will this take me.Also, what parts do I need from Pelican here. I noticed an Oil Separator Internal and other parts. Thanks. February 5, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Should take about 3 hours. The oil separator, the hose for the bottom of it. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Zen 911 Comments: : I have a 2005 911 Carrera 997 3.6 . I started seeing left tail pipe smoke and black residue on the pipe plus hearing a knocking or ticking noise but car full of oil. I only have the car for a year it was my dream car and a birthday gift to myself. The car drives strong just in shifting gears you see smoke come out of left tail pipe. I took it to Porsche and they wanted to put a new engine in 30k expected I then took it to another mechanic and he attached a reader and discovered cylinder 3456 was bad and he didn't detect any metal in the oil so he recommended changing the Pistons. 7k : He stated its not a bottom end issue. So I was waiting for taxes to attempt the repair..then one day after adding oil to the car I took it for a spin and started to see the engine light start blinking and right a few miles it started losing power. I pulled over and googled the warning light and it instructed me to get it home immediately. Then driving home it started smoking really bad. Now when I start it up the engine light flashes and its smoking very bad . Just need some direction , I see the piece about the oil separator . Love the car . The I found another mechanic in NJ said he would do a top engine rebuild for 6k I was supposed to me this guy at the Maryland house and he stood me up and I had it towed there then had to return home with vehicle in tow .. : ... a friend that's a fellow Porsche owner recommended this site for honest help! I live in Maryland near Washington DC January 31, 2015   Followup from the Pelican Staff: First I would figure out where the smoke is coming from. Is the coolant level ok? You mentioned the oil level is Ok. If you have smoke, one of your engine fluids is leaking into the cylinder. Start there, then follow up with me. - Nick at Pelican Parts   hobbitalan Comments: Just read the article my 1998 911 996 c2 tiptronic makes this squeal and I have ordered a new AOS which I will change out. Is there any other parts required for this task, also do I need to remove both intake manifolds or just the left hand side. My car also leaks oil from the bell house area which I am told is the crank seal will the AOS replacement make any difference to the leak and is it ok to run the car with this minor leak.Many Thanks. October 7, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Just remove what is described in the article. As far as a parts kit, give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Tom W Comments: Hi,I have a 2002 996 with a Tipp Trans. Are the steps the same as in the article to remove the AOS.Thanks,Tom September 10, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be similar, I can;t recall any major differences. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Dave Comments: Gone through the article. Very good. Hoping to eliminate smoke after HPDE events. May consider the motorsport separator #996-107-926-00-M100. Is it worth 3x $'s an does it work? Please share unique install requirements and additional parts, if any. 2002 996 C4S application. Thank you. July 26, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   levdeb Comments: Was able to get it all figured out. Thanks for the writeup! June 10, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts   levdeb Comments: Well, got all the way to the 'get under the car' part, and its a different world. My AOS looks like the one in the photo I've attached. Nothing under the car looks like the photos you have. Not sure where I've messed up! 2003 C4 Cab auto... June 10, 2014   Followup from the Pelican Staff: It still attaches to the engine the same way. Look on the left side of the engine, near firewall. - Nick at Pelican Parts   Got more questions? Join us in our Porsche 911 (996/997) Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts. Or, see what other questions readers have asked about this article... Applies to: Porsche 996 Carrera (1998-2005), Porsche 997 Carrera (2005-2008) PARTS CATALOG Porsche BMW Mercedes-Benz Audi Volkswagen Saab Volvo MINI QUICK LINKS About Us Careers Pelican Parts, LLC 1600 240th Street Harbor City, CA 90710 Order Online or Call:888-280-7799 CUSTOMER SERVICE Shopping Cart Track Your Order Project / Wish List Browse Shipping Options View Shipping FAQ See Our Return Policy Live Chat Contact Us CONNECT WITH US NEWSLETTER Sign Up for Pelican Pit Stop News & Special Offers By subscribing, you agree to the Pelican Parts privacy policy and terms of use. Copyright © 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page Cart Project List Order Status Help This site was designed and produced solely by Pelican Parts. Pelican Parts is not associated with Porsche Cars North America in any manner, except for a mutual appreciation and love of the cars. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures. By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within.   Close this window               Page last updated: Wed 4/10/2019 08:53:21 PM [ID:]Lemon Law Blog » Audi » Audi Oil Consumption Problem Running Rampant Audi Oil Consumption Problem Running Rampant September 27, 2012 By: LemonLaw Category: Audi, oil changes We are getting numerous calls on the 1 800 LEMON LAW hotline from Audi A4 and Audi S5 drivers who are going back and forth to the dealer regularly because their oil light keeps coming on. It seems many Audi drivers are dealing with an oil consumption issue. Audi service advisers cannot always figure out the origins of the consumption problems, however we have seen several instances of engine replacement. If the matter is not addressed promptly, it could result in significant internal damage to the vehicle. Although a majority of our cases have been with Audi A4 and S5 models, we have also seen the problem in A5 and A6 models as well.If your oil light comes on in your Audi, it is essential that you bring the car to an Audi-authorized dealership as soon as possible. Make sure they provide detailed repair invoices each and every time the car is at the shop. If you have to return repeatedly for oil consumption tests, it is essential that you keep records of all tests and results.Many of our clients have been successful in their Audi oil consumption claims, with cases resulting in repurchases, replacements and monetary compensation. And, if we can help you, the legal representation is completely cost-free under the fee-shifting provisions of the State Lemon Laws and Federal Warranty Statutes. The outcome depends on the age of the vehicle and when the problem began. If you are experiencing an Audi oil consumption problem, fill out our Get Rid of Your Lemon form. We will review your situation and let you know how we can help you get back on the road to recovery. Share this post: 219 Responses to "Audi Oil Consumption Problem Running Rampant" #1 chris wirkowski says: October 9th, 2012 at 7:54 pm purchased audi a4 used at yonkers auto mall. live in ct have been to new york twice and now about to go third time monday consumes oil and dealership repair shop keeps stating thi is normal and in spec pleaese help #2 LemonLaw says: October 10th, 2012 at 11:10 am Chris: We will reach out today to see if there is something we can do. #3 Raymond says: October 14th, 2012 at 11:55 am my 2000 a4 oil light keeps flashing on i just had and oil change and i dont no what it could be 10/14/2012 #4 Holly Loudenslager says: November 28th, 2012 at 1:16 pm Hello,I have been experiencing the same oil consumption problems with my Audi A4 2011. I believe there is something wrong with this year's manufacturing and no one at the dealership nor headquarters level is willing to listen or agree with me. They have offered me service packages to keep me quiet and to further try to convince me that this behavior is normal. Please help me out!Thanks,Holly #5 shafied says: December 16th, 2012 at 2:15 pm i had the same problem ,erery month the audi a4 say on the computor that a qt of iol need needed and the oil is too low.I just brought this car from a dealer on boston rd about 5 month ago for 23000$ and finance through bank.What can i do ,this car is a lemon. #6 Angel says: January 12th, 2013 at 9:25 pm Bought a 2009 A4 2.0t about 4 months ago and have been to the dealer for the oil light 4 times already. They continue to tell us the same thing; "this is normal and may be due to your driving conditions"?!?!?!.. We driving the car probably less than 100 miles a week so this is ridiculous… The car only had 25k miles on it when I bought and has the CPO extended warranty up to 100k.. But if I need to put a quart of oil in this thing once a month – then something is completely wrong…… How should I proceed? #7 LemonLaw says: January 15th, 2013 at 9:30 am Angel: We have resolved a number of these cases. Please visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a lemon law lawyer in your state. #8 Meryl Kaye says: February 4th, 2013 at 6:18 pm I just saw these comments. I have a 2007 s4 with 60,000 miles and am trying to decide whether or not to keep it. Since the very beginning I have had to add a quart of oil about every 1200 miles and the response I have been given by the dealership is that this is normal and nothing to be concerned about. What are your thoughts. I do not think I have ever had a compression test done. Would that be something at my expense? #9 donna says: March 20th, 2013 at 4:35 pm just purchased a a4 2.0t wagon on feb. 9 from private person.oil light came on 3 days after purchase. come to find out this is a common problem. took it to dealer for oil consumption test. – it failed and was determined it needed a $4200 piston ring replacement. no warranty, contacted audi of america several times and they refuse to pay for the repair. furious #10 Tom says: March 29th, 2013 at 10:35 pm I have been a mechanic for 30 years and have only seen this type of oil consumption with cars that have milage of over 90K and the usual cause is worn valve guides. I have a 2008 Audi A4 2.0L Turbo. I bought it used and love the car, but, this oil consumption situation needs to be addressed by the manufacturer. However, any manufacturer will procrastinate as long as possible mainly because the majority of owners will not challenge the dealers after being told that the problem is within specs. If it is within specs why then do my other 3 vehicles not go through oil like this. I have a 2002 VW GTI 337 (Limited Edition 25th Anniversary only 1750 sent to the USA) and it has over 200K miles and before I change the oil every 4000 miles I check it first. I DON'T LOOSE ANY NOTICEABLE AMOUNT EVER. Yes, It is the original engine and have never done anything other than standard maintenance on it. With current technology and modern alloys being used any engine that is properly maintained and not leaking oil should not only last for at least 300K miles without any major repairs but not consume oil at the rate these are. I will be disassembling this motor to find the exact cause of the oil consumption and as I stated before I will be looking very close to the valve train, specifically the valve guide clearance and seals, for excessive wear & clearance. There are a limited amount of things it can be the valve guides &/or seals, oil control piston rings and as a long-shot it could be the turbo itself by oil getting past the seals and getting into the turbine or vane area. I say these things because the chrome exhaust tips at the rear of the car are black and this points to oil being burned in the combustion chamber and going out the exhaust. I know many would say if that is the case the plugs would foul, turbo failure or clogging, catalytic converter would clog and there would be black smoke out the exhaust. All this would be true for a big oil leak, however, at a rate of 1 to 1 1/2 quarts per 2000 to 2700 miles the amount of oil being burned in the engine is minuscule and not at a rate that would build up carbon deposits in the catalytic converter clogging it or put out any noticeable smoke while driving. In fact with temperatures inside the combustion chamber being 2000 degrees there is probably very little carbon buildup on the top of the pistons or even on the valves themselves. If you consider how many times the spark plugs fire over the course of driving 2000 to 2700 miles the amount of oil being burned in each cylinder is most likely well within specs. HOWEVER, KNOWING DAM WELL THAT THIS CONSUMPTION SHOULDN'T HAPPEN AFTER BREAK-IN IT SHOULD BE RECTIFIED. #11 Scott says: March 31st, 2013 at 4:50 pm Have a 09 A4 2.0 turbo adding a quart of oil every 200 yes 200 milesPaid 702.44 for part one testing at dealer, Did nothing waste of money,Why would Audi not want to step up and due THE RIGHT THING, they know the problem. The piston rings were incorrectly manufactured,100%Audi's responsibility. I hope enough people come forward to force Audi toexcept responsibility or if they choose to turn a blind eye, my hope then would be fallout far greater monetarily to Audi then fixing the problem. #12 Lee F. says: April 23rd, 2013 at 11:55 am Thanks Mechanic Tom for your insight! Recently purchased 2010 A5. Oil consumption issue every other month or 1,000 miles. Never had this issue with any other car. Where's the "Truth in Engineering" that Audi stands by? #13 Sherry says: April 30th, 2013 at 9:13 am I too have an A4 (2009) and my oil light goes on every 3,000 miles. And the dealer also says that this is normal. Normal, for what? or normal for who? I see that others experience the same thing within fewer miles, however, in my 30 years of driving, I only had one car that burned oil and that was a Chevy Manza with 100K miles on it. Somehow I thought Audi's were different. I had wanted an Audi since I could drive and now that I have one, I'm hugely disappointed that the manufacturer indicates that this amount of oil consumption is within "their acceptable limits". Well, I'm the customer and it is "not within MY acceptable limit." Isn't it about pleasing the customer and not just creating your own rules for how you can get around an issue you cannot fix. In addition, the most fundamental thing someone wants in a car is dependability. Does this give me the confidence that my car is dependable? No!Why would I buy another Audi? Who wants to go in every 1K or 3K miles to get their "oil topped off" We are all busy and have more important things to do than to make friends with the service guy at the service department at the Audi dealer. #14 Casey says: May 7th, 2013 at 8:37 pm My 2009 Audi A4 63,000 is going through a quart of oil every 200-300 miles. Out of warranty at this point. Taking in for oil consumption test on Friday but worried Audi won't cover because of no warranty. I am furious that there has not been a recall on this issue! Wondering if Lemon Law has lawyers in Oregon? Has anyone has success with them doing the work without the warranty? #15 Jennifer says: May 10th, 2013 at 12:48 pm I purchased a 2009 Audi A4 2.0T one year ago, with 42K on it. I bought the car on a Thursday, I needed to bring it back to the dealer on Saturday because the oil light came on! I told them that it was ridiculous considering I just bought the car the previous Thursday night! I have had it taken back 2-3 times after that. The warranty ran out, although the sales person told me I had another 40K to go when I bought it, and Audi wanted $200 for the first test to determine what test they needed to do next! They wanted about $400 to find the problem and then would of probably charged another $500 to fix the car. I just changed the oil in the car, ONE WEEK LATER the car is asking for a quart of oil because its low!? If I don't put oil in the car within a few days, while I am driving, the car will shut off and I will loose power steering. I don't think this is safe while traveling 50mph on the road and the car just shuts off. I wish I never got this car, I have spent so much money in just oil, its crazy! #16 Adam says: May 21st, 2013 at 1:34 pm I purchased a 2008 Audi A4 2.0.T Quattro from a dealership in Ohio and reported issues on my third day of ownership and now they have had the car for 5 days and I have been without a car in total almost 2 weeks because I was unable to drive it before i took it in. Now, I have been waiting for oil consumption tests and have been given no update other than that. I dont know if I have any ground to stand on when it comes to the lemon law but this is ridiculous. #17 Teresa says: May 31st, 2013 at 3:37 pm Purchased my Certified 2010 Audi A4 2.0 in January in NY. Since then (4 months), the oil light has come on THREE times to "add one quart of oil." Had 27,900 miles when I bought it, now has 34,500, so that averages less than 2000 miles per quart! When I called last month to inquire about the usage, Audi service implied it could be "normal" but if it seemed to be a problem, then could do an oil-compsumption test. Would that be covered by the CPO warranty? Do I need to have that done at the dealership where purchased? Or can I go to any Audi service? Should I just see what that test turns up before I start freaking out? (Thinking of writing a letter to Audi since it seems to be a "known issue.") Any advice? #18 Kim says: June 1st, 2013 at 2:45 pm I bought an Audi certified 2009 A4 last march. I have had two occasions when they have had to do an oil consumption test. my husband and son were driving back from South carolina and a steady light came on saying minimum with a pic of the oil can. The dealership told me to get some 5w30 synthetic oil. How many times do you have to have an issue before a lemeon law attorney can help? #19 LemonLaw says: June 3rd, 2013 at 4:59 pm @Kim: Please contact us at http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html once you are in three times. #20 LemonLaw says: June 3rd, 2013 at 5:00 pm @Teresa: I think we can help. Please fill out the form at http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html so we can contact you. #21 C. Denise Pope says: July 3rd, 2013 at 8:20 am I purchased an Audi A4 2010. It now has approximately 73,200 miles and at 45,000, light come on indicating 1 qt of oil needed to be added. Took it to dealership, told this was normal. Light now comes on every 500 to 700 miles! Car now in shop for oil consumption test. Contacted Audi HQ. They in turn called the dealership. Don't think anything will come of it. So disappointed…really loved this car. Refuse to pay for any expensive repairs…will trade in before I do that.salsag@verizon.net #22 Teresa says: July 11th, 2013 at 3:19 pm Found this on NYTimes website (Published: November 25, 2011) regarding a TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN issued by AUDI. Perhaps knowledge of this will help us get some results:AUDI Owners of various Audi models are experiencing high oil consumption, particularly when much of their driving is in stop-and-go traffic. In T.S.B. 101103 issued on Nov. 3, Audi said that 2009-11 A4, A5, A5 Cabriolet and Q5 models with a 2-liter turbocharged engine should get a new crankcase pressure-regulating valve. Audi told dealership service departments to install the valve if a customer complained about oil use. The front crankshaft seal will also need to be replaced when the valve is installed. Good luck! #23 Adam says: July 12th, 2013 at 3:56 pm My issue ended up being the cam bridge seal that was bad and was causing oil to leak off the top of the engine on the the Crank Case Valve and burn out of the turbo. Replaced the seal and CCV and it is running good! Hope this helps everyone. #24 Sara says: August 21st, 2013 at 11:50 am My car is being serviced right now at Audi of Melbourne. I have a 2012 a4 2.0 T. My engine low oil light came on. They are replacing numerous parts all related to this oil issue. They continue to sell cars and do not inform the public or customer about this issue knowing full well about it. The service manager stated they are replacing these particular parts in many vehicles. I believe there is a class action suit in Australia and hopefully there will be one in the USA soon. I expected to buy an Audi and get the highest quality of vehicle but, so far that is not the case. #25 Lindsey says: August 21st, 2013 at 12:48 pm We just bought a 2009 A4 with 61000 miles. We have had the car 28 days and have had to add 3 qts of oil so far. We are so upset with this. Like all of you Audi is not willing to help out with anything at all. We have not yet paid for the consumption test, because we are trying to figure out if we should just sell the car or repair it if it is something on the less expensive end. Have any of you had a successful repair? If so what action did you take and what was the cost associated with it? Adam, how much oil was your car burning prior to having it fixed? Did Audi cover any of the repairs on your car? #26 Shonn says: August 21st, 2013 at 12:51 pm I purchased an 09 Audi A4 2.0t less than a month ago with 61000 miles on it and have put in 3 quarts of oil in less than 1,000 miles! My tailpipe is black and is leaving black carbon on my garage from startup so I know its burning oil fast. Has anyone had a consumption problem this bad and has Audi helped at all in resolving this without me having to have the engine rebuilt?? #27 LemonLaw says: August 21st, 2013 at 3:18 pm @Shonn: If you are still under warranty, Audi will rebuild or add components to the engine if they feel it will fix the problem. #28 Richard Longlott says: August 23rd, 2013 at 3:52 pm Bought new, a 2011 Audi A5….been back to dealership ( where I bought it) 3 times (an hour drive each way). After first, I was told they lowered the oil pressure ( masks the problem , I assume). Each time they say I pass the test, but wonder what it would be if the turn oil pressure back to factory settings???I want this fixed.. They offered nothing in extended warranty. Now my car is almost out of warranty.HELP !!! #29 LemonLaw says: August 28th, 2013 at 11:44 am @Richard: I am so glad we connected and we look forward to helping you- 1 800 LEMON LAW. #30 JB says: August 28th, 2013 at 12:11 pm I have a 2009 A4 2.0 quattro that was just in because the oil light was coming on. I am the second owner and purchased 6 months ago. They believe the problem to be the turbo which would cost me $2,500 because this is out of warranty. They have performed warranty work on this problem in the past and claimed it was fixed. What options do I have? Seems like a problem that they are aware of but turn a blind eye when outside of warranty Thank you #31 LemonLaw says: August 28th, 2013 at 1:38 pm @JB: If you were in repeatedly for the problem under warranty, I suggest you visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a lawyer in your state who can help you! #32 Chris says: September 7th, 2013 at 8:07 am I have a 2008 audi a4 2.0t that just hit 50k miles. I've always had the oil changed at 3000 miles. I've had to add oil several times between the changes. It doesn't leak any oil, it consumes it. I have an extended warranty and want the problem fixed. No way should this car's oil minimum light be coming on after 1000-2000 miles after oil changes.I use the synthetic oil that is recommended for my car and its not cheap. Yet the car eats it. Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated,Disenchanted audi owner. #33 Carolyn says: September 11th, 2013 at 7:43 am I could copy and paste many of these posts. I've been driving and owned too many cars to be told that adding oil monthly to my 2009 Audi A4 quattro is normal. I bought it used in January of 2013 (66K miles) with a limited warranty — now expired. When I took it in for routine service — and my complaint, once again of unacceptable oil consumption — the dealer did an oil consumption test. It is in the shop now having the pistons and rings replaced — fully covered by Audi/the dealership. I hope this solves the problem. #34 Teresa says: September 17th, 2013 at 2:20 pm My certified preowned 2010 Audi A4 just had an Oil Consumption test also. Originallly they kept telling me it was normal to go through a quart of oil every 2000 miles…. and when they checked the records, an oil consumption test already HAD been done for the previous owner. (Guess he didn't think it was normal either!) Last week when I was in for routine service, the dealer agreed to do the test again and — lo and behold — it failed! Pistons and rings are now on order to be replaced by Audi under warranty. So, make them do the oil consumption test! (And then if it passes… make them do it again just before the warranty runs out!) Good luck, everyone! #35 LemonLaw says: September 24th, 2013 at 11:47 am @Teresa: It is important for Audi owners to know that if they have to go back and forth numerous times to have this matter addressed, they should look into their rights under State Lemon Laws and federal Warranty Laws even if the car is eventually fixed. Many of our clients have received significant monetary compensation to reflect the diminished value of their car, and got to keep the vehicle. If you have been in numerous times for your Audi, fill out our Get Rid of Your Lemon form at http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html and we will review the claim and find someone who may be able to help. #36 Kim Brumbelow says: September 30th, 2013 at 2:26 pm Hi, thank you in advance! I purchased an 09′ Audi A4 brand new, and last year we began adding a quart of oil almost per 100 miles. I have called the dealership, and I was told before even driving down that according to Audi, it is possible its normal. It's ridiculous. I'm not wasting my time. I am about to post a youtube video, its sorta a documentary, but done with a badic IPhone! It is a one month journey in the life of an Audi A 4 owner, with a major oil consumption issue! Also, I am a single woman working two jobs, I don't have time to jerk around with these people. They need to learn to respect people a little, we are not stupid, Audi has a problem! #37 Wayne Kirkwood says: October 10th, 2013 at 6:37 am Purchased a new 2013 Audi Q7 10 months. Love the car but just had my first oil light issue at 9551 miles. Dealer serviced at 5000. Dealer now claims the oil was slightly over filled which caused the warning light to illuminate. I've never heard of such a thing for an oil light function, low yes but overfilled? Implied we may have overfilled but have never even opened the hood. All services have been by the dealership. Owners manual states normal engine use is a quart of oil every 1200 to 2000 miles. Crazy, guess this is the CYA recommend by Audi's legal department. I have owned every high end luxury vehicle on the market (some 30 vehicles) and never had any issue with oil consumption period nor is it addressed in any of their owners manuals. This is our second Audi and maybe our last. Previous was a 2011 Q7 with an AC issue that seems to be another of Audi's dirty little secrets which can be corrected if you order the Warm Weather Package. Very curious that no other car in the world has a Warm Weather package. Many do now offer Cold Weather packages but seems like Audi invented this one as well to offset Lemon Law challenges. #38 john says: October 19th, 2013 at 12:38 pm I own a 2009 audi a4.Have been sole owner. Recently at about 52,000 miles it started to use a quart every 600 miles or so.Dealer says it could be a major expense and that "I would have to think about whether or not it is worth it to pay to fix it".Am taking it to a trusted auide/vw repair shop for their opinion.Can anyone tell me what will happen to engine if I simply decide to continue adding a quart of oil every 600 miles rather than pay for a high price repair? #39 Rick says: November 20th, 2013 at 3:50 pm I just had the oill test completed for the second time. I know the support staff at the dealership quite well. They called and left vmail yesterday informing me that they will be replacing the pistons and rings on my 2010-A5 S-Line 2.0t. Is this the only option that Audi is providing? Would the replacement of the engine be more inline with this work than tearing the car apart? #40 LemonLaw says: November 20th, 2013 at 4:05 pm @Rick: I have seen very few engine replacements. If your piston replacement will mark your third repair attempt, it's time to look into your rights. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a lemon law firm in your state that may be able to help you. #41 Chris Luminare says: November 20th, 2013 at 7:03 pm Ok this is stupid, Why dose a Great Car need so much oil. I have a 1996 Mercury Villiger and never looses oil. And it carries my family around back and fort. I drive my audi A4 2009 take it to the dealer for maintance , and it says i still have 9,100 miles till my next oil change. Then i add a quart every 800 miles. Stupid , Stupid , Stupid. And the deal says well its normal, yeah because they dont want to fix it. But they really want ur money. DEALERS SUCK, THEIR NOT HONEST, AND $217 TO CHECK A LIGHT , COME ONE REALLY. This Car i have is a LEMON. Thank u. #42 Chris Luminare says: November 20th, 2013 at 7:08 pm All Audi A4 2009 Should be recalled for oil consumpution. its like , its eating my money up, stupid. i have to carry a case of oil in the back just in case i go on a trip. stupid, stupid, stupid. Oh God Please Help ME ! #43 john says: November 26th, 2013 at 10:13 am Since my reply Oct 19, I have taken my audi 2009 a4 to the dealer to replace the crankcase. The car was using a quart of oil every 600 km, or every 360 miles !. They charged me $575 for this. A few weeks later I have driven 1,000 miles / 1,700 kms and have had to add two quarts of oil.So not much improvement. Will be calling the dealer today to see if they want to see the car again. They told me that if this fix did not work then they would need to replace pistons and rings at a cost of $7,000 !!!!What really burns me is that they let me buy the car last May at the end of my 4 year lease knowing there was this risk but not advising me of it.What recourse do I have? #44 LemonLaw says: November 27th, 2013 at 4:12 pm @Chris Click here to find a lemon law firm in your state. #45 Matthew Rowe says: December 2nd, 2013 at 3:58 pm I'm in the same situation as everyone else here. I was putting oil in my car every 1 or 2 thousand miles or so since I bought my 2011 A4 in August of 2010 I haven't done anything until recently as I was always told this was normal and I didn't think nothing of putting a quart of oil in my car (I was nieve). Gradually it got worse and at 38,000 miles my car oil signal was coming on every 300 miles. I took it to the dealership in which they did some maintenance (part 1 of 2 service they said) and told me to bring back the car after 700-1000 miles but also said that what they had done may have fixed the issue. Well my car didnt make it that far, at 600 miles the oil signal came back on so I took the car back and it obviously failed test #2. I have to take my car in next week for a said $5,200 maintenance (which is covered under my warranty) in which they are going to tear apart my engine. Now I doubt this will fix the problem but even if it does, I feel that I will never get full value out of my car if I ever try to sell it or trade it in. I mean, what reasonable person or car dealership would give me KBB value after I tell them what has been done to my car and by the way, it's essentially a shot in the dark as to whether it will fix the car for the long haul… I would never hide this information from anyone as I wouldn't want someone to buy the car and then have to pay a large sum of money to fix a long lasting problem… Am I correct in my thoughts here? #46 LemonLaw says: December 6th, 2013 at 1:28 pm @Matthew: This is why you may have a potential claim under the Federal Magnuson Moss Warranty Act to reflect the diminished value of the car as a result of the oil consumption problem. If you want to submit your info to http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html we will be glad to review your situation and see if and how we can help. #47 amy says: December 8th, 2013 at 10:15 pm I own a 2010 audi a with 37000 miles bought it brand new.Ive brought it to the auto dealership multiple times a least 10 times thus year because the car would go through oil every couple hundred miles. I first went to the audi dealer where I bought it and they told me there is nothing wrong with the car and charged me. I finally went to audi different dealership and they did the oil consumption test and it failed. They r replacing rings and pistons. I've had nothing but problems with this car since I had it besides the oil #48 Eric says: December 19th, 2013 at 9:09 am Bought a used 2009 Audi A4 from a Chevy dealership. LOVE the car. 2 days after buying, we had to add 2 quarts of oil (Chevy dealership had already changed the oil). A week later, another 2 quarts of oil, 10 days later 3 quarts of oil. When we bought the car it had 79,000 miles on it. Chevy says they can't help (even with the 30 day limited warranty) because they are not authorized to perform the oil consumption test on an Audi. Audi dealership says they cannot help because we didn't buy from them. Audi Corporate help line says THEY cannot help because it is out of manufacturer warranty. Had the Audi at the dealership to get keys programmed – my nephew works at the VW dealership – he talked to the tech working on my car. The AUDI tech says this is a KNOWN issue most likely piston rings….my Audi already had the crankcase breather replaced. We have been to the Chevy dealer multiple times, but they keep paying "hot potato" with the Audi dealership regarding this issue. Audi corporate KNOWS this is an issue but won't help because the car is out of manufacturer warranty.Do I have any legal recourse? I paid plenty for this car – I don't want to spend another $3000-$7000 to fix a manufacturing problem. #49 byran says: December 23rd, 2013 at 3:08 pm i purchased an audi a4 2.0turbo 2006 almost 7months ago and i have had to add oil here and there plus three oil changes because of the oil light coming on saying low oil. Now just last week the engine light came on and the car just shut off in the middle of the freeway.I have been told that the timing belt has broken and it should have been changed from anywhere from 80000 to90000 miles, when i bought the car it was at 100000 miles already, what should i do? #50 Damian says: December 27th, 2013 at 5:33 am I have a 2013 Audi A6. I have called the service desk repeatedly regarding the oil consumption issue (light would come on between 1,500-3,000 miles after being serviced). Each time I have been told that this is normal (one of the service reps even tried saying that every 1k miles is normal!). Looking at my email conversation I had with the dealership this problem goes back to May of 2012. Not too long ago I brought my car in for the 45k service, and already I am getting the low oil notification (I am at 48k). Looks like I will be calling the dealership again about this issue. I assume at this point if they continue to blow me off then I should look to take further action? My extended warranty expires at 50k so this needs to be resolved ASAP. #51 LemonLaw says: December 27th, 2013 at 4:20 pm @Damian: You need to start having this recorded in their records ASAP. #52 LemonLaw says: December 27th, 2013 at 4:28 pm @Eric: Being that there is no Audi warranty on the car, there most likely would be no legal recourse. #53 Paul P says: January 2nd, 2014 at 2:41 pm Hello,I have a 2011 audi a4 with the 2.0t motor. It burns .24 quarts per 1000 miles and audi states that that is acceptable. That is 2.4 quarts between services, I have Audi care prepaid service contract. It is not warranted because they say it is OK for the car to run out of oil and have the light come on. AoA makes the rules, I have to stop by to have it filled 2 times between regular service. AoA will not help and were a little flip with me about it.Please helpPaul #54 Eric says: January 6th, 2014 at 12:21 pm @Paul P. I feel your pain….I called Audi customer service and they said because I was out of Factory warranty – they wouldn't do anything (9 quarts of oil in 30 days) Audi customer servce is a disservice. The people were REALLY nice when they were telling me "tough Sh*t". Luckily – I was in the 30 day limited dealership warranty – so I traded it in for a BMW…… #55 Ann MB says: January 6th, 2014 at 3:27 pm I bought an 2011 Audi Q5 new. The first month I had the car I needed to add oil under 1K miles. Advised by Audi normal. Oil changed at annual service, but always in between. I as others thought odd, but always advised normal. Last service in July,2013 car had 23,189 miles. Today, January,2014 car has 26,141 miles. That is approx. 492 miles driven a month. Since July I have had a qt. of oil added 2 times. The oil light indicator is again reminding me to add oil, that will be the 3rd time. I called Audi and they said now that is NOT normal. It is going in for service to check this on Wednesday 1/8. Outcome to follow. #56 matthew says: January 8th, 2014 at 9:42 am so, I guess If I was looking to buy a used 2011 a4 avant with 52000 miles….I should ask important questions.but most importantly maybe look for a completely different vehicle. #57 matthew says: January 8th, 2014 at 9:45 am I am used to a car that burns oil..I have a 560 Sep mercedes..love the car..but yes oil consumption, general maintenance does get a little much…always loved audi..never owned one, i have one that I baby already..I do not need another one..any thoughts..are all audi's 2009-2011 and onward have this oil issue..or just some.. #58 Tong says: January 15th, 2014 at 12:19 pm I have a 2009 A4 Quattro. Took in at 40k miles because of low oil every 1k miles or so. Was told that was normal. So I continued to add a quart of oil every time it was low on oil until 70k miles or so. I noticed I was only driving 400 miles before having to put in a quart of oil to top it off. I believe this problem to be a manufacturing defect because of the massive amount of people having the same issue. #59 Jej says: January 17th, 2014 at 6:07 am I've got a 2010 A4 2.0T and was not prepared to face such an issue. Effectively there is an unexpected oil consumption and regularly I need to add oil. But the engine works perfectly and so far I didn't heard about any broken engine or post treatment system strongly contaminated…Although I admit it's not normal (for your billfold particularly) there is a benefit : the oil quality in the engine is better than the one in an engine not consuming oil…because regularly you add fresh oil to the used and in consequence the "mixture" is fresher ! So at least your engine is better protected…Of course my statement will depend on the level of the oil consumption…try thinking positive and enjoy driving the 2.0T engine… #60 Damian says: January 22nd, 2014 at 12:41 pm I am having an oil consumption test run on my A6 right now. Bring my car back in when the oil light comes on and then we will see what the results are … #61 Ann MB says: January 22nd, 2014 at 3:09 pm I recently reported Jan 6. I had the consumption test done and Audi replaced "crankcase breather valve, seal and separator". Advised 2 things: – that those having the same issue, the service work I just had completed usually fixes the problem. Also advised, to monitor the oil and if light comes on under 1500 miles to return for "phase 2" of test. When asked what phase 2 entailed, told that depending on test a call to AudiofAmerica headquarters would be necessary for next steps. Hopefully I will not need "phase 2". Obviously Audi recognizes this problem. #62 Mark says: January 27th, 2014 at 4:35 pm So I too have a 2009 audi A4. had several conversations with dealer, under warranty, that the car burns oil at about 1 qt every 1200 miles. They stated "normal"?? Then after I hit about 70k miles the car started to burn about 1qt every 250 miles. Took the car in for the 80k miles service and they found no problems. At about 85k miles the car crapped out totally while on the highway. They replaced a fuel injector under warranty? saying Audi extended them because of known issues. Now they say in that same cylinder there is damage and the whole engine needs to be replaced….want to charge me 13k??? Audi does not want to own up that the piston ring issues and fuel injector issues had anything to do with the engine failing. #63 Rick L says: January 28th, 2014 at 5:09 pm Ann MB#63 Mark is correct….Audi WILL NOT own up to the issue and will not admit fault.My 2011 A5, while under warranty, never seemed to meet Audi's idea of an oil consumption problem. I had four oil consumption tests and finally had to file a lawsuit to get Audi's attention.Audi settled with me.This is my fourth and final Audi…. I will never buy a car from them again. #64 john says: January 29th, 2014 at 9:00 am @Jej how many miles are on your car? how many miles do you get per quart of oil? Does anyone know the risks of continuing to drive with oil usage @ 1 qt per 600 miles? Seems it may be that eventually car will fail due to a falied fuel injector .Is that correct ? If yes how many miles before it happens ? Can anyone advise please? thanks #65 LemonLaw says: January 29th, 2014 at 11:11 am @John: We have seen numerous claims where the driver eventually had to replace components–normally pistons and rings. If you are consuming more than 1 qt per 1000 miles, visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/rights.html for info on your rights. #66 LemonLaw says: January 29th, 2014 at 11:14 am @RickL: We have now resolved hundreds of these claims. If folks are having issues, they need to take action, but remember most claims are handled pre-lit, which means a lawsuit is not filed and of course there is no cost to the consumer to do this. All Audi drivers facing this issue should visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html and fill out our form. We will review your situation and determine if you are entitled to recourse. #67 Rick L says: January 29th, 2014 at 12:32 pm Dear Lemon law….. Thanks for your help, but we/you have not resolved these cases…..all we have done is mitigated the underlying problem and get some money from Audi that helps purchase the oil we need to keep the cars running.I would also point out that part of Audi's solution ( at least in my case)was/is to lower the oil pressure….which simple masks the problem….and of course, makes oil consumption (oil passing by the rings) lower. Literally….they could continue to lower the oil pressure to a point where you will NEVER fail their oil consumption test.All I wanted Audi to do is fix the problem and they didn't. Once again, I will never buy, nor recommend an Audi ever again! #68 LemonLaw says: January 29th, 2014 at 4:46 pm @RickL: I agree. They can't fix the problem. They do not have a solution sadly. But as you know consumers still have rights to recourse because chances are they are going to sell the car sooner than later. And if we can get them thousands to help offset the depreciation, they need to be aware. #69 Rick L says: January 29th, 2014 at 6:44 pm No, I respectfully disagree. Audi CAN fix the problem – they just chose not to. Of course, it's not THEIR problem, it's ours. And that's what pisses me off.I was "with them" throughout the "unintended acceleration" debacle….supported them, told all my friends who asked me if I thought my car would unstoppable plow down the road " NO WAY, AUDI'S. ARE GREAT CARS…it's the folks driving them that are wrong …I finally sold my Audi 5000 and bought another new Audi !!!And that's exactly why I will never purchase an Audi again….this time Audi didn't stick by their loyal customers….as we stuck by them. And after buying four Audi's and having another Audi as a company car, I can assure Audi of America that any friend or colleague that asks me about buying an Audi…I will tell them my story and unequivocally tell them …DON'T BUY AN AUDI ! #70 Jej says: January 30th, 2014 at 3:21 am @ JohnMy car had 12.5 k miles when I bought it.Till ~ 35.5 k miles my car burnt 1 quart per 9500 miles.After and currently it's twice more : 1 quart per 4750 miles.I can live with and my engine runs perfectly.I do not drive in city, mainly highway and 25 k miles per year.My car has now more than 62.5 k miles…but I fear the oil consumption will continue increasing… #71 LemonLaw says: February 5th, 2014 at 10:03 am @RickL: Certainly respect your thoughts and thank you for participating. I agree with you but I do want folks to know that there is help available to at least cushion that depreciation if they have to sell or trade the car earlier than planned. They have rights. #72 Eric says: February 5th, 2014 at 11:25 am I received no help for a known issue from Audi. I did my due diligence (and luckily I was under the 30 day warranty from the dealer) – took the Audi to the dealiership (who was ZERO help), Called Audi USA and tried to receive help from them, even talked to an Audi mechanic. THE AUDI MECHANIC told me exactly what the problem was (piston rings) that it was a known issue with the particular series of A4 I had…advised me to get rid of the car (which is a shame – my wife loved it).This should be a recall FROM Audi – or at least something they take care of. Because of this – I will never own an Audi again. #73 Eric says: February 5th, 2014 at 11:26 am BTW – when I called Audi USA to tell them to close the case they opened regarding the oil consumption issue (that they will not do anything about) – I told them that I bought a BMW. They couldn't have cared less. So much for "Truth in Engineering" #74 LemonLaw says: February 5th, 2014 at 2:07 pm @Eric I certainly appreciate your frustration, but in order to seek recourse regarding the issue, the consumer does need to have an Audi warranty. If you elect to purchase the car without an Audi warranty, or you are out of warranty when the problem starts, chances are they are not going to do anything. That being said, we have seen instances where goodwill warranty repairs continued if the problem started under Audi warranty. We have now resolved well over 150 of these claims, with most consumers receiving significant monetary compensation and some even receiving lemon law remedy if applicable. But, you must be under an Audi warranty to be entitled to this recourse. I wish you the best with the BMW. #75 Eric says: February 5th, 2014 at 2:27 pm I don't have a problem with LemonLaw – the onus is on Audi. This should be a recall – no ifs ands or buts about it. Could be a class action law suit – there are numerous problems reported- Audi knows, but won't do anything about it – basically tells the consumer to suck it up – we are too good to bother with your issue. Meanwhile – in order to get Audi TO look at the problem, I was quoted $1800 to start the process, and then if it was the piston rings – another $6000-10000 depending on the severity. So, because I bought a used car from another dealership, no longer under an Audi warranty – but it has a KNOWN ISSUE, the consumer (me in this case) get the shaft. #76 LemonLaw says: February 5th, 2014 at 2:34 pm @Eric: Here's hoping that those in the future who opt to look at this car find this issue, and are aware of the issue before signing on the dotted line. I appreciate your participation in the discussion. #77 Irving says: February 6th, 2014 at 8:06 pm My wife bought a 2009 Audi A4. At around 60,000 we started having an issue with high oil consumption. The system would ask that a quart of oil be added about every 300-500 miles. The Audi dealship hasn't been much help and suggested getting an oil consumption test done. I explained to the service rep the car is obviously burning oil since we are adding a quart about every 500 miles but he didn't seem to listen and suggested and oil consumption test. Unfortunately the car is out of warranty and I don't see any other choice other than to run the oil consumption test and see what other work will need to be done after that. The service rep did mention it might be the priston seals which would be thousands of dollars to replace. As a consumer is there anything I can do from trying to make this engineering failure that Audi has made right? #78 Randy says: February 8th, 2014 at 9:40 pm I just bought the Audi 2009 A4 2.0T quattro. My car need 1qt oil for 350miles. I already spent 5000 dollars try to fix it. It still happened and cannot fix. After research online, I saw Audi 2009-2011 A4 have a lot of oil consumption issues and cases. Why the Audi did not recall? They did not do anything for the A4 owner to figure out the oil consumption problem. #79 Randy says: February 8th, 2014 at 10:50 pm Hi, My name is Randy. I owned the 2009 Audi A4 quattor. My car has a serious oil consumption problem around 350 miles per qt. I did a lot of research online. Also, when I type Audi A4 2009, then I can find a lot of people are talking about the oil consumption problem. And I did research from my friends who own the A4 and ask about some information. I know many, many the same issues also in China, Taiwan, German and USA. Therefore, I cannot understand why this car did not recall!!! OR help us who owned the A4. I got some information from two different car shop. The data shows Audi A4 and S5 between 2009-2011 have a lot of issue about the oil consumption problem in the USA. I know the car is not recall, but IS THERE ANY WAY CAN HELP THE AUDI OWNER TO KEEP THIS CAR?"""101103″"" issued : AUDI Owners of various Audi models are experiencing high oil consumption, particularly when much of their driving is in stop-and-go traffic. This is according from New York time.http://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/27/automobiles/service-bulletins-exorcising-the-phantom-wipes.html?_r=2&101103 issued : AUDI Owners of various Audi models are experiencing high oil consumption, particularly when much of their driving is in stop-and-go traffic. This is according from new York time #80 Lee says: February 10th, 2014 at 3:11 pm IF NOT TOO LATE DO NOT BUY AN AUDI!!! Own a 2011 Audi. It began consuming oil at 30,000 miles – when I called the dealership I was told this was normal. At that point I was needing oil every 2500 miles. The need has steadily increased and I now need oil every 300 miles – Audi has refused assistance until I bring to dealership for a "test". The "test" costs $700. Audi will do nothing until I get the "test" and promise nothing after the test. So they have a known problem and rather than stepping up and fixing it they hold me hostage for $700. I am sure they will find a problem at which time they will hit me with another bill. I am trapped in my Audi – do not let this happen to you. #81 Kimberlee says: February 14th, 2014 at 4:43 pm I have a 2010 Audi A4 that I bought used at CarMax with less than 15,000 miles in 2013. The oil light started going on at around 18,000 miles when I took it into the Audi dealership to find out why it needed oil as the sticker in the car said it still had 4,000 miles to go until the oil change was due. They told me it was "Normal" and then after I pushed the issue they said they would need to do a 2 part oil comsumption test. After doing the consumption test they had me bring it back a third time to find out that they needed to replace the pistons and rings (all under warranty). I have yet to get the car back but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this will fix the problem. After reading everyone's comments I doubt I will buy an Audi again. Even though I hope they have fixed my problem, just knowing that thousands of people out there are having the same problem and Audi won't do a "Recall" and own up to their "Known" issue! #82 john says: February 15th, 2014 at 11:50 am My A4 2009 has been using 1 qt oil every 600 miles for last 6000 miles. Currently at 58000 miles.Facing piston rebuild.What will happen if I do not rebuild pistons and just keep adding 1qt every 600 miles? #83 Jej says: February 18th, 2014 at 3:16 am @ JohnWhen consuming oil the risk is to contaminate the inlet face of your catalyst. Will depend on conditions at engine-out (flow and temperature). In consequence it's not recommended to mainly drive in city (oil may not be completely burnt before reaching the cat). #84 Bob says: February 18th, 2014 at 3:22 pm I have a 2010 A4 Avant that we bought new, and we put very few miles on it. I have used probably two quarts of oil over the 21,000 miles – – mostly highway. My warranty is about to expire. How worried should I be that I will develop this problem as the miles stack-up? Is this issue only showing-up with a small percentage? Suggestions on precautionary moves before warranty expires? #85 andres_g says: February 18th, 2014 at 9:45 pm I have a 2009 A4 2.0T with 94000 miles on it. I have been experiencing the oil issue a while. I took it into the dealer and they diagnosed it with having to replace the Rear Main Seal at a $2800 dealership repair cost and replacing the Crankcase Valve, aka Oil Separator, for another $600. When I asked the dealership about the vehicle's trade-in value they were not interested. They cited the high mileage a reason. I am trying to find parts and a mechanic that will help with the issue. Is there anything I can do with Audi that can help or is my mileage working against me? #86 LemonLaw says: February 26th, 2014 at 3:31 pm @Bob: It's not a small percentage. Bring the matter to your dealer to ensure that you are not dealing with the problem. It smees unlikely based on your description. #87 john says: February 26th, 2014 at 4:15 pm @Jej: thanks. And what will happen when the inlet gets contaminated,? And what will it cost to fix? #88 john says: March 2nd, 2014 at 2:55 pm @andres_g; What was the mileage on your A4 when oil isse started?how many miles per quart of oil have you been using?thanks #89 Colby says: March 3rd, 2014 at 11:47 pm In Jan 11 2014. I bought a 2010 A4 2.0t from Audi of Tacoma it had 104,000 mi. When I purchased it so I got the power train plus warranty that Audi deals with regularly it failed phase 1 about three weeks ago and failed Phase 2 the car is currently in the shop. I just was told that the warranty people will not cover it because they said it is likely the rings are "worn out" and are not "broken". So I might have to pay for the fix. The dealership hasn't pull the car apart yet cause are waiting for me to okay the job cause I might be liable for cost of repairs plus labor!! NEED HELP! #90 Greg says: March 7th, 2014 at 2:11 pm I have a 2002 1.8T A4 it has been a great car. Mileage just turned 350K. I do primarily all highway driving. My car uses about 1 quart every 10K. I have started to look at replacing this car and the 2009 – 2011 in right in the range of car I was looking for. Is the problem specific to 2009 – 2011 2.0T engines? Is anyone aware of issues with 2008 or older or the 2012 and newer 2.0t? How about the 3.0 liter versions of A4's. Sorry to read about all these issues. I am definately thinking twice about getting another Audi. BMW is starting to look good. #91 Marilyn says: March 14th, 2014 at 8:11 am I purchased a 2008 Audi A4 in 2009 with few miles on it. EVERY month, my oil light came on. I needed to add a quart of oil ($8.00 each) monthly. When I took it to the dealership for evaluation, they told me that it was common for that vehicle. I wasn't satisfied with that response. Eventually, I traded my Audi in for a Hyundai Sonata. I had no faith in Audi nor the dealership that handed me a line of bull. #92 andy p says: March 17th, 2014 at 12:54 am My sister-in-law has a 2006or 2007 audi a4 turbo 2.0.. She had the oil light on and I checked the dipstick and it was bone dry,, 1.5 yrs ago, dealer told her that its normal for her car to burn oil! BS! Now she is spewing out light blew smoke and it idles rough.. I don't think the light has come back on but she only puts on 3000 per yr and hasn't gone on any long trips.. She wont listen to me and wont even check the level! #93 Rosalie says: March 17th, 2014 at 12:57 pm We purchased a certified 2011 A4 in December of 2013, we were told that all the maintenance was done on it. Within 5 days the oil light came on, we took it to the dealer very concerned and they added oil. My husband was told that the car isn't driven hard enough sometimes. I didnt believe that, and then within 3 weeks the oil light came on again, we took it in and they ran a consumption test. It failed, the pistons needed to be replaced. The vehicle is still under warranty, they gave us a loaner car for 1 week, and replaced the pistons. I'm now concerned reading these issues and will now monitor the issue very closely. Thanks for all the information! #94 Jej says: March 18th, 2014 at 4:16 am @ John :If finally the inlet got contaminated the catalyst will be less efficient to depollute and it may also have an impact on the exhaust back-pressure so engine performance. Depending on how big is the impact the catalyst has to be changed (~ 1000 $). In such a case injectors and spark plugs to be verified too (deposits). #95 jhny tran says: March 25th, 2014 at 12:48 am Hi I got an audi a4 2.0 t and I recently just bought it from a dealership (not audi dealership). And it's burning oil excessively, I just bought this car a month ago with 116k on it. I've had to refill the oil 4 times now. And I know this isn't normal if I wanted this problem fix how do I do it? I got warranty but not from audi just a local dealership.before buying the car I had the dealership mechanic looked at it first before giving me a go it was good to buy. Now I've had it in the shop for almost 2 weeks told me it was the vacuum pump being clogged that's the reason why it's burning oil and why my fan motor was making noise, i had an esp fault not alone my steering angle was off so my wheel handle wasn't in straight position anymore while driving straight. Got the car back but still burning oil now it's telling me to shut off engine and check oil…. what can I do? I really wish I could just tell the dealer to switch me a another car… #96 Jsy Pheland says: April 17th, 2014 at 8:02 am I have an Audi a4 2.0t 2007.its got 103k for mileage I've been having this oil problem for a while now. I replaced the crankcase with about 60k and the problem did not stop. I had just replaced my turbo as well. It was filled completely with oil which caused it to go however I'm still loosing oil ever 700 miles my light comes on.now that I'm over 100 thousand miles idk if I'm still under warrenty. Audi burnt me and I want compensation! #97 LemonLaw says: April 22nd, 2014 at 11:40 am @Joseph: If you have been back routinely to an AUDI dealer about the issue, I think we can file a claim udner the Federal Magnsuon Moss Warranty Act. Feel free to call us at 1 800 LEMON LAW (1 800 536-6652) to discuss or fill out our Get Rid of Your Lemon form at http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html. #98 Amy says: April 23rd, 2014 at 5:08 pm I'm the owner of a 2011 Audi A4, 2.0T, 4-door sedan. I bought it brand new in January 2011. I know too well the issues with progressively high oil consumption, starting at about 25,000 on the odometer. I live in a hot climate area so thought nothing of it. However, I have been back at the dealership every 2-3 months for a top-off of the oil during the last year. The dealership eventually ran a test to determine some faulty part that was said to cause the rapid oil consumption problem in some cases. It was determined that the part would need to be replaced and this would fix the problem. Then just yesterday, the car's condition deteriorated, without warning of any kind. During a time period of approximately 15 minutes, the car began vibrating and experienced a loss of power on acceleration, then even while idling. The EPC and engine warning lights illuminated on the dash. Today, a NEW ENGINE is required and on order. Did I mention that the car only has 29,000 miles on it?!! Unreal!!! The car is still under warranty, but I'm far from happy about the situation and currently talking with the dealership about what else they will do for me, since a new engine will not renew my faith in the reliability of the [essentially brand new] car! I decided to check online forums for any information when I ran across this site… Suggestions or advice? #99 LemonLaw says: April 25th, 2014 at 2:54 pm @Amy: We have handled numerous audi oil consumption claims. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/state-lemon-laws/ to learn about the lemon law in your state. #100 john says: April 26th, 2014 at 9:21 am My A4 2009 oil usage issue started at 85000 kms, 6 months ago.Went to the dealer many times; did the oil consumptions tests, then they did the first PCV small repair job which failed to correct the problem, then more consumption tests which also showed oil use @ 1 qt per 1000 km, and then finally Audi came through.Based on the dealer recommendation, it paid for the piston ring redo. a $7,000 job. All at their expense ! I had an Audi for 5 days at no charge while they did the job. I ended up driving 10000 km until it was fixed, adding oil every 1000km. For those of you in the midst of the problem, hang in there and work with your dealer step by step.I might just yet buy another audi.! #101 Nate says: April 28th, 2014 at 1:39 pm Just purchased.a 2009 Audi A4 from a honda dealership received from trade in. I have owned the car for 9 days and have only drove it 250 miles. I am now having to place my second quart of oil in it. What rights do I have? I just bought the car. No warranty and they did not disclose the oil problem upon purchase. #102 Christian Knutson says: May 14th, 2014 at 9:15 pm I purchased a 2010 Audi A4 avant used with 54K on it in Jun 2013 from a BMW dealer in MA (I live in IL). I did't realize the oil consumption issue until December timeframe, i.e. I didn't put 2 an 2 together to figure out this was unusual. (I had owned an A6 while living in Germany – European spec – and had the same issue.) After having my garage attempt some voodoo to limit oil consumption, I'm pouring at least a quart / 500 miles into the engine. Vorsprung durch Technik? Nein. Es ist kaputt! As with Nate, no warranty. Do I contact my distant friends at Audi USA to complain? #103 alfredo says: May 15th, 2014 at 12:21 pm bought a q5 2011 two months ago, i've been putting oil every 230-250 miles I am not even going to try to deal with this issue with the dealer after seeing all this comments, I wil trade in or sale it to a dealer, #104 Carly says: May 26th, 2014 at 9:20 pm I have had the same problem with my 2011 Audi Q5 that a purchased used. It has to the to Audi dealer several times first time valve were replaced and a engine overhaul. This is my first and last Audi so much for Truth In Engineering. #105 Jeff says: May 30th, 2014 at 6:37 am I had same oil consumption issue for a long time. I did regular maintenance as Audi suggested. After replacing rings and running test ($800). Good news Audi decided to replace pistons at no cost. They said the reason was because we took good care of our car.This makes me feel good about the 2010 A4 purchase. #106 LemonLaw says: May 30th, 2014 at 3:19 pm @Carly: New or used, if you have been back repeatedly under the manufacturers warranty, you have rights to recourse. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a lemon law lawyer in your state who can help. #107 Cecelie says: June 20th, 2014 at 10:31 am We purchased our 2011 Audi A4 in sept 2010. At first no real issues but I lived 1 mile from work. Only once did I have to take my car in for oil issues. Now that I live farther away we have problems constantly! The first dealership we took the car to said it was normal after the oil test and so when it happened again I took it somewhere else. Now these people tell me the they will no longer do oil tests and I have to wait until the oil light comes on *drum roll*… next thing I know we are out of oil and no light comes on! Now we have to get it towed! This is GA. Please help. #108 Joe says: August 28th, 2014 at 8:35 am My 09 Audi A4 got a new engine at 55K miles due to this oil consumption problem. Drained a quart of oil every 1 to 2000 miles. Was always told it was normal ! One day, I vented to the oil change tech at a dealer. He said "ya know what there is a service bulletin on this , talk to my manager". They tried to fix it at first, failed, took a 2nd time and complete replacement of many engine parts under 100K warranty. The oil change tech also said Audi did not want to do a recall because it would be too expensive ! Thanks to that honesty kid I would have never known the truth. #109 KO8120 says: September 1st, 2014 at 12:22 pm I recently purchased a 2010 Audi A4, within days the oil light started showing. The Audi dealer in my area confirmed the vehicle failed the oil consumption test but said Audi would not pay for the repairs because it's out of warranty, and they blame the problem on normal wear and tear.I complained to the State Attorney General about the problem, and they ended up writing VW of America and the dealer a letter, requesting a response within 10 days of receiving the letter. I also intend to file a law suit against both parties in conciliation court. If I lose I can appeal for a jury trial. #110 Shoulda bought ABeemr says: September 9th, 2014 at 12:27 pm 2009 Audi Q7 with 50k milesLove the car but Im not dealing with manufacturerdefects and high oil consumption. I was told the Q7 must be filled with premium fuel and 93 is all thats been fed. Well after 40k the entire top end had to be cleaned out for carbon build up. Less than 5k and guess what? The problem is back plus high oil consumption which i believe is the central issue from Day 1. Stay away from Audi folks. I hate whiners, but after this ordeal i think its only proper to inform the person next to you your about to get robbed from the same folks that did the same thing in the early 80's.. #111 Rick L says: September 9th, 2014 at 12:52 pm ShouldaBoughtaBeamer,Not sure about buying a Bimmer, but I agree….stay away from Audi.My brand new….off the showroom floor, 2011 A5 marks my 5th and final Audi?I stuck with these guys through the "sudden acceleration" debacle and after all that and buying two more cars since then, you would think there would be some reward for loyalty….but not with Audi – they could care less.After pleading with these guys….and failing the oil consumption check, numerous times, I found out they lowered the oil pressure in the engine (when I suspected something was wrong) creating, in my option, an even greater danger – premature engine failure.I use Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel and an oil additive in the engine….hoping an praying the engine lasts.STAY AWAY from Audi or hire a good Attorney upfront!!! #112 vlmike says: September 15th, 2014 at 10:47 am I have had similar experience with my current 07 a4 2.0t. I am like many Audi owners and in denial. These cars ARE over-engineered. My 98 lost an engine due to timing belt tensioner failure. Replaced the engine with a used engine. (3000$). Audi subsequently lost a class action a few years later which I happened to stumble upon using the internet. ( I got most $ back) Audi initially denied any claim of responsibility and I had many colourful discussions with Audi. I was almost hesitant to hand over the binder sized service history on the car when I sold it to luckily a young lawyer. My 2007 has had 1/2 the engine replaced under warranty because of a faulty cam follower. Now I can give up James Bond worthy smoke clouds under hard acceleration, and at 119000 kms, my car burns about 1 liter of oil every 1500kms. My mechanic tells me he is beginning to see engine failures due to this excess consumption. My advice to all: make sure you keep your oil in check and to use the recommended 502 00 spec synthetic. Not just any synthetic. Audi will not be around to help us. After 13 years, this will be my last Audi. What is perhaps most sick, is the fact that when I have my Audi clean, and forget the money I've spent on control arms and Qwerky faulty switches.. I am momentarily happy.I also wonder if the people in Audi HQ even read these rants?? #113 Michael wong says: September 17th, 2014 at 6:33 am Audi have know about this problem starting in 2002 when the 2.0 liter turbo came out besides burning too much oil most of the vehicle with have premature wear on camshaft follower and high pressure fuel pump. Audi said problem was fixed on 2008 models but still burn too much oil. My a4 went through 1 quart for every 400-600 miles but I work for a dealer and I keep check any recalls or techincal bulletins. Try to perform oil compustion test but said I can't do it because conflict of interest that I have to paid other coworker to do the test. So I never had it on paper now and I quit the dealership in late 2013. Now my a4 worn camshaft lobe and high pressure pump. Called Audi sorry can't help you out of warranty ask dealership sorry can't help you. So paid 40 thousand for the a4 and now most likely have to pay 5 thousand to fix the vehicle. Repairs volkswagen/Audi vehicle for 13 years and before I took the vehicle to Audi dealership I called Audi of America. Told them that camshaft follower and high pressure fuel pump premature wear. Sorry we need a dealer to confirm so wasted money to confirm issue and still no help from Audi or dealership. #114 Suzy says: September 24th, 2014 at 11:43 pm I purchased a 2011 a5 new from Molle Audi in Kc mo. I also was told that adding oil between oil changes was normal now my turbocharger has failed to a tune of 2700.00.When I asked the service advisor why this would happen at 70,000 miles I was told parts fail. I have an 2001 Acura 3.2 cl type s with 232,000 miles on it that still does not use oil and has required no major repairs only maintenance.I am asking for an oil consumption test tomorrow. #115 Rick M says: October 1st, 2014 at 9:48 am I have 2009 A4 and have had the same story as above with ridiculous oil consumption. Audi has agreed to replace the pistons etc. Dealership said it takes two days of labor. My questions is will this fix the problem. When I asked, the dealership said they have had no issues once the pistons were replaced. Is this true? #116 LemonLaw says: October 1st, 2014 at 1:29 pm @Rick: Hard to say whether you will continue to have problems However, you still may be entitled to monetary compensation to reflect the diminished value of the car as a result of the problem. Plus, you get to keep your car. Call us at 800 536 6652 for more information. #117 secondadonna says: October 1st, 2014 at 2:23 pm Once the dealer replaced all the pistons in my 2010 A5, the problem went away. I remember they did have the car for a while, so two days doesn't sound too bad. (Mine was covered under certified pre-owned coverage.) Best of luck! #118 Ann says: October 1st, 2014 at 4:46 pm I also have same issue. Bought new 2011 Q5. Currently Only 28,000 miles. Had the same response from Audi. Normal oil consumption . After several oil fill ups I had car tested. Failed oil consumption test, Audi replaced gaskets. Still failed a second oil test. Using a qt. of oil every 500 miles. Under warranty, Pistons replaced and now advised by Audi that fixes the problem.I realize this is now on record at any time of car sale. Is there still compensation as you note above? I'm suspect of keeping the car as it is now out of warranty. Thanks. Ann #119 LemonLaw says: October 10th, 2014 at 11:54 am @Ann: Yes, you would still be entitled to compensation. Please call 1 800 LEMON LAW (1 800 536 6652) for more info. #120 Diane Geragosian says: October 23rd, 2014 at 8:22 am Purchased 2009 A4 in December 2009 with about 27,000 miles. Crazy oil consumption: after failed second oil consumption test in October 2010, dealer replaced engine pistons and engine rings. Was better for a while but still needed to add oil. Car has always been serviced at the same Audi dealer. Started marking my calender for the last six months when I needed to add a quart of oil. The mileage was usually ~1000 miles driven, but has now dropped to ~800 miles (every 3 weeks!). I always keep a quart of oil in the pocket of the passenger seat. Becoming quite good at this! Will be starting the fight with the Audi dealer soon. #121 LemonLaw says: October 24th, 2014 at 12:41 pm @Diane: With a 2009, I wouldn't wait too long. In certain states, your statute of limitations to file a claim has already expired. Please visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a firm in your state to discuss your rights. #122 Amy says: October 29th, 2014 at 7:47 am Last week while driving my 2009 Audi A4 home from work the car began to run rough at stop lights / signs. I drove the vehicle directly to a friends garage as i was afraid to drive it further due to my personal safety concerns. The car would not start after i shut it off. I had the car delivered to the dealership i purchased it from less than 3 years ago who have done all the scheduled maintenance of the vehicle. The vehicle has 93K. They took the car apart yesterday and was advised that the timing tensioner failed causing a catastrophic failure of the engine. The timing tensioner is powered by the oil / oil pressure in the vehicle i was told. The motor on the vehicle is being assessed today to see if it is worth fixing. Leading back to the oil consumption issue. At the last oil change i inquired about the amount of oil that the vehicle required and was advised that it was normal for the amount of miles driven. I was up to about a quart of oil at every fill up of gas. I now have a car 5 years old with a blown motor as a result of the oil consumption problems with the Audi A4. I am at a loss of what to do. I have followed the Audi recommended service and just received my reminder for the 95K service from the dealer on Monday. Audi knows there are issues with the vehicle and now as a consumer i have to decide if the car is worth fixing or not. I paid 30K for the A4 Prestige less than 3 years ago as i thought i was purchasing a vehicle that was going to last, now I dont even know if it will run again with out significant out of pocket expense because Audi wont address the problem. Be careful #123 Jej says: October 31st, 2014 at 3:21 am @AmyThere should be no link between the engine break and the oil consumption. As long as your oil level is above the min the oil circuit pressure is good enough for the tensioner. Nevertheless you have an abnormal oil consumption like us. #124 Garner Kraemer says: November 1st, 2014 at 3:04 pm My 2007 Audi A4's oil light comes on every 500 miles. I had Audi diagnose the problem during the summer and they told me to get the following completed to solve the problem: replace valve cover gasket, replace fuel injectors, and new spark plugs. The problem was not solved and I recently took my car back to Audi to get diagnosed again. They ran an oil consumption test and they claimed my car failed the test. Audi has quoted me at $2,383.00 to get my piston rings replaced and the possibility of more damage to be found once the engine has been taken apart. #125 Tom says: November 4th, 2014 at 6:46 am Well, reading all these posts doesn't make me feel better at all. Mostly because if Audi was going to do anything about it they would have already; and playing tug of war with Audi corporate or the dealer is something I'm not looking to do. Six months ago I purchased a 2010 A5 and have been adding oil every couple of hundred miles. My wife has a 2011 A4 and after six months I just put a quart in (no leaks, no smoke). Not as bad as mine but I agree with all (and other Tom), cars this new should not need oil added at all. Someone mentioned, in another post I believe, that a dealer changed a breather and crankcase seal before changing pistons and rings. Although a few dealers are changing pistons and rings I'm of the belief that the issue is probably a crankcase issue; because if a car with 5,000-45,000 miles needs new pistons/rings, Audi has bigger fish to fry. I also read in another post, after my CEL came on after owning the car for a month, that the oil consumption is due to (I wish I remembered the name of it) a plastic valve on the top of the engine, toward the rear. The faulty part made my car misfire and after replacement, unfortunately my oil consumption issue was NOT resolved. Well, I had a TT for 13 years and my wife had a 2002 A4 (same 1.8T engine) and NEVER had any oil consumption issues, but now that I'm older I no longer fall in love with my cars; I just see them for what they are, chunks of metal and have no intentions of keeping this one as long as my TT. I guess the bright side is I've decided to change my oil once a year since I'm adding five quarts over the course of a year. In other words, with the massive loss of oil, theoretically the car constantly has new oil in it! Good luck to all! #126 Janice Heard says: November 13th, 2014 at 12:33 am I have a 2013 Audi A4. It is currently at the dealership. When I bought the car it had 27000 miles on it. It is a pre-owned certified. I too was having the oil consumption issue and was told that my constant running to the dealership for oil refills was normal. I continued to voice my concerns. They did run an oil consumption test in which they said the car was fine. A couple of weeks ago I was driving to work and a warning light came on and read "turn off inition and check oil. Luckily I had arrive at my parking lot. I parked the car and called the dealership. When I told them what happened they told me that they would come and get the car. They told me that they had to replace the crank case. When I went to pick it up I never made it out the service building. They kept the car. A couple of days latter they called me and told me I could pick it up and that it was a computer programming issue. I drove the car for about two weeks and the oil light came on. I took it back to the dealership. They are now saying that they have to rebuild the Pistons. I am really worried. My sister told me that all of this is associated with engine failure. I'm not sure if I want this car back. In addition to this I have had issues with the stirring and wheel bearings replace. The commute from my home to my job is around 20 miles. I bought this car because I needed safe and reliable transportation. This car isn't it. Help! #127 LemonLaw says: November 14th, 2014 at 10:40 am @Janice: I am not sure what state you are in but I definitely recommend speaking with a lemon law lawyer. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a firm in your state. #128 Janice Heard says: November 14th, 2014 at 5:08 pm I'm in Ohio. Thanks. #129 LemonLaw says: November 19th, 2014 at 10:57 am @Janice: Call 1 800 LEMON LAW (1 800 536 6652) for assistance. #130 Tom says: November 19th, 2014 at 11:38 am UPDATE: Well I believe there's good news for all. After discovering this article, http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2014/audi-oil-consumption-lawsuit.shtml, I called Audi and my local dealership and they were very familiar with this issue. (Janice, I'd find another dealer since the one you're visiting doesn't seem to even know about the issue. Otherwise, call Audi Customer Experience Center; they'll get the dealer on track!) They had me come in for an oil consumption test. This consists of topping off, removing and weighing your oil. They also change that valve I spoke about in my initial post; they also changed a seal, a bolt, and reprogrammed the computer to reduce internal pressure. If I continue to experience high consumption, then they will (hopefully not have to) change the pistons and rings free of charge. The cost of my visit, including a rental, was what it should have been, $0; and I didn't even buy the car there! So it looks like Audi is, although forced, doing the right thing.On a side note, one thing that irritated me a little was the service adviser said I was out of warranty, as if a favor was being done. Truth is, if you read the link I attached, the warranty for this issue has been extended to 8 years or 80,000 miles. Unfortunately, I believe the 2015 models continue to burn a lot of oil, but salespeople are now instructed to let the potential victim know, so the consumer is at least aware… why don't they just fix it?!! #131 LemonLaw says: November 26th, 2014 at 2:25 pm @Tom: All well and good but we are still successfully resolving numerous Audi oil consumption claims just like yours. Consumers are receiving thousands of dollars in addition to getting their cars fixed. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a firm in your state to discuss the matter. #132 Garner says: November 26th, 2014 at 5:48 pm @Tom. Have you read anything about Audi doing anything about the oil consumption in the 2007 A4s? #133 Janice Heard says: November 27th, 2014 at 8:35 am Thanks all for your comments. Here is the latest. My sister's suspicion was right! When they called me to come pick the car up. I told them I had absolutely no faith in that car! How do I know this car is really fixed this time. The response was you have a new engine. You should see the long list of repairs on the invoice. And although the warranty covered it I was still charged a fee. Unbelievable. They should have paid me for all the time and gas I used running back and forth running to the dealerships. The car in my opinion still make sounds that I am suspicious about every now and the the light malfunction light comes on but I can't find a light out. Can't wait to finish paying off this car and leaving Audi forever. If I had the time and money I would take legal action. So if there is someone out their that had the same experience and is pursuing action, I am willing to serve as a witness. #134 Adrian Pena says: November 28th, 2014 at 7:48 pm I have a 2010 Audi A4. I took it to get service because the oil light kept coming on. The repair shop had to replace the turbo and the injectors. I have now made a claim with Audi Care, I have 69000 miles. I expect to be fully reimbursed for this it also has problems with the transmission when it starts from 0. #135 Stacie says: December 3rd, 2014 at 12:49 pm So glad I found this site. I have a 2011 Q5 2.0, ~70K miles. Was told that my oil consumption was normal and I listened, dum me. Nothing documented except my credit card receipts for oil purchases. My concern is that this consumption issue can lead to other major issues. Currently my car is at the dealer for a cylinder issue. Plan on having the dealer address the oil issue. #136 john says: December 4th, 2014 at 11:05 pm Bought a 2011 a4 in july of 2014 having no idea of the problem…bought from a non audi dealer. 2 weeks later the oil light comes on and keeps coming on and basil Toyota keeps telling me its normal…finally after googling we found the oil consumption problem and called the local audi dealer…i had to pay 600 for the first part of the test…as of today im told step 3 will needyo be done but they're not sure if it will be covered because i bought from a non audi dealer…it only has 48k miles…bought all the extended warranties also. Shouldn't yhis be covered no matter what considering its a known problem? Im supposed to hear within a week if Audi will cover it, if they dont what do I do???? #137 John says: December 5th, 2014 at 12:23 am I live in Montreal Canada. Are you also able to help me out there? My audi a5 2011 which is still under warranty is having the same problem #138 John says: December 5th, 2014 at 12:23 am I live in Montreal Canada and have the same problem. My audi a5 2011 which is still under warranty is having the same problem. Can you help? #139 jjasen says: December 10th, 2014 at 7:04 pm Have the same issue as everyone mentioned above. Bought pre-owned 2011 Audi q5 2 yrs ago with 36k miles on it. 2 wks later, the oil light came on, so i took it in to audi dealer in San Francisco to have it looked it. They were nice about it, filled up the oil and said it was fine. Since this was my 1st SUV/Turbo, i thought this was normal. Same thing happened again just a few months later. This time, i even bought 2qt of oil from the dealer to have them in my car, so i don't have to keep going in. Today i took my car in for sched maintenance and was told that my car needed new brake pads($700), and it may have an oil consumption prob. Since i didn't buy my car from a Audi dealer and it has 46k miles now, i would have to pay $1050.00 to have this oil consumption test done. i just can't believe it! Not sure what to do now. #140 LemonLaw says: December 17th, 2014 at 1:19 pm @John: Sadly, we cannot help Canadian consumers. #141 Meg says: December 18th, 2014 at 10:21 am I have a 2010 A4 that I've had for about a year. I've put about 10k miles on it but I've gotten about four oil changes, getting another one today. I've had to add so many quarts of oil that I've lost count. But in the past three months I have added two quarts and I've only gone about 2k miles in that time. #142 leamsi horta says: December 20th, 2014 at 12:44 am I have a 2009 a4 2009 2.0t have the same issue as everyone mentioned above. #143 Ray says: January 5th, 2015 at 4:40 pm Hi,I brought my 2011 Audi A4 3 months ago and I already have had to put in 2 quarts of Oil. not relaizing that there is an issue with the Turbo engine.It is a CPO and I got it from the Dealer so I am hoping that is is all covered.Its crazy we don't even drive the car that much, put 3000 miles on and 2 quarts.the Dealer will be hearing from me on this.will keep everyone posted.thanks #144 Jsin says: January 9th, 2015 at 3:11 pm 2009 A4 Avant 2.0 here. 55K miles. Putting 3 quarts of oil in every 5K. Explained this to Audi of Bellevue (WA), just before the end of 2014. They did the comsumption test and told me that they were going to replace my pistons and rings bc of the poor dewsign/tooling issue mentioned in a lot of these posts. No cost to me–I believe there is a class action law suit happening bc of this problem and they're trying to solve it. Truth in Engineering. Have to wait a month to have the service done, though, bc it looks like they're backing up bc of this issue. "New" engine, though. Sweet!!! #145 Edison says: January 13th, 2015 at 2:28 pm 2010 A4 with 51k and sitting at audi dealership right now. Hopefully they will solve the issue instead of giving me a bunch of bs. #146 David says: January 20th, 2015 at 6:32 am I bought a 2010 audi A4 and the oil usage is radical. Did a fuel consumption test and it failed horribly. Audi South Africa now wants to charge me R50k ZAR to fix issue. This car is a lemon and I will never ever buy a Audi again! #147 jon says: January 21st, 2015 at 4:44 pm 2012 audi a7 with same problem. Just got oil changed about 1k miles ago and engine oil light keeps coming on, stating I need to add 1 qt. This is probably the 3rd or 4th time the light has come on over past few months. While the dealership is figuring out the problem, they give me an A3 as a loaner…bastards. #148 Liana says: January 26th, 2015 at 12:42 pm I have the same problem as everyone– I recieved a notice from Audi through my mechanic that this is a known issue. I am wondering if there is a class action lawsuit on this in the US? #149 JTuason says: January 26th, 2015 at 7:54 pm I just called my local Audi dealership and they said that since I am at 82,000 miles, I just missed the cut off of 80,000 for my car to be fixed free of charge. I am pretty upset right now. They basically told me that if this had happened to me earlier, I would have been covered but since the problem just showed up and I am outside of the mileage covered, I am out of luck. Is/has any been in my situation? if so, what have you guys done? #150 shane says: January 27th, 2015 at 7:50 pm I have an Audi a4 been in the shop 5 times in 3 months everytime I turn around car is getting worse and the dealership wants me to pay for something else yet replace when all I'm complaining about his oil consumption #151 Anna says: February 3rd, 2015 at 2:20 pm Hi! can you please contact me? I bought a used 2010 Audi A4 on December 31, 2013. A the time it had 46000 miles. Within a day of buying it the oil light was on. Over the following year I had the oil topped off at least once every 2-3 weeks. A week ago, my car, which now has 61000 miles, experienced engine failure. The excessive use of oil seems to have destroyed the engine. How best to proceed? This was bought used without a warranty. #152 wanda says: February 18th, 2015 at 8:35 pm I have a 2009 Audi A4 in which I bought February 11th 2015.. The next day the oil light was on and I put oil in it…I put it in the shop the next day and they said I needed a crankshaft and it seems as though I had and oil leak..Wow..What can I do about this situation? I want my money back!!! #153 Cheree says: February 24th, 2015 at 7:47 am There is a class action lawsuit against Audi A4 models from 2010 (and some others not sure exactly which ones) due to the oil consumption issue. I received paperwork in the mail regarding this issue. Definitely check with your dealership, they are required under the terms of the lawsuit to perform required work and replace parts to fix the oil issue. My car is at the shop now with the engine light on and they are trying to charge me $2500 to fix the engine issue (due to a leaky rear main seal that is also taking in air) before they perform the required service to fix the oil consumption issue. This car is a definite lemon, I have had problems since I got it. I took my car in while still under warranty for an oil consumption test and they told me my car was fine. #154 Casey Job says: February 24th, 2015 at 8:57 am I Bought an '08 Audi A4 with 95000 on it 2 months ago. The oil min light has just came on after putting 2000 miles on the vehicle since the purchase. Car was bought used without a warranty. What do I do? #155 LemonLaw says: February 25th, 2015 at 3:55 pm @Cheree: Before singing up for any class action, I would investigate an individual claim. #156 Rich says: March 9th, 2015 at 11:49 am 2009 A4 with constant problems, what consequences beyond the oil guzzling can be successfully tied to this issue? #157 LemonLaw says: March 9th, 2015 at 1:57 pm @Rich: It could certainly hurt your engine. #158 Sanjay says: March 14th, 2015 at 2:02 pm I have 2008 Audi a4 2.0T. The car has numerous issues, high oil consumption, about 1qt every 700- 800 miles, on the highway, with fast acceleration, there is cloud of smoke. Which causes other drivers to change lanes. Very frustrated. #159 Jasmine says: May 8th, 2015 at 10:44 am I bought my Audi back in June of 2012. A month later I drove to a town about 1 hour away, on the highway. On the way there the oil light came on. I talked to the mechanic at the dealership about this and he told me it is normal for Audi to consume oil and to just come in when ever the car needs more oil. Every single time I drive on the highway for a total of about 2 hours I will need to add a quart of oil. My boyfriend recently moved to the opposite side of town and so now I drive about 10mn on the highway a few times a week. This has caused me to have to add oil once a month. Now I am thinking this is ridiculous. Once a month? Every time I drive long distance? But do I have claim even though I have owned the car for 3 years now? #160 LemonLaw says: May 22nd, 2015 at 11:53 am @Jasmine: I would visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a firm in your area for a free consult. #161 Joe says: May 29th, 2015 at 5:14 pm I have a 2011 Q7. Bought it CPO in December 2014. Also bought the extended warranty. Car had just under 31k miles when bought. Now has about 36K miles. The yellow oil light with "min" came on two months ago and dealer topped it off for free. We also needed a new key fob battery which they took care of. Oil light went on again last weekend so took the car in on Monday. They topped it off and scheduled us for an appointment today to do an "oil consumption test". they also said the previous owner had a remaining service so they are doing that for us today "for free". we're still waiting, but it's curious they have the car overnight now. plus they called my wife right before closing to say we need a new battery for $600! that seems crazy. not sure if it's related – doubt it – just another annoying Audi expensive issue. Back to the oil issue – does anyone know if there is anything in lawsuits, recalls, notices, etc for the Q7s? and also, what steps do i need to be taking with the dealer now to make sure if this worsens i have done everything possible to protect myself? #162 LemonLaw says: June 5th, 2015 at 3:10 pm @Joe: You should definitely speak with a lawyer regarding your issue. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/lemon-law-firm.html to find a firm in your state. #163 Ehsa says: July 19th, 2015 at 6:24 pm I bought a CPO Q5 2012 in October 2014. I have not been driving the car that much in the first year, but this year (2015) it is basically my primary commute car. in 2014, the "low oil" yellow light came on a few month after I got the car, and I took it for service. It went on again a few month after the service, and the dealer top it off for free. Looking at the oil level, it seems like it is half way down already. So with record of burning a quarts of oil per 1000 mile, I started searching around and I learned about the issue and the class action. I confirmed that based on my engine serial number, it is one of the problematic ones subject to class lawsuit. I was not informed of the issue with this car and the class action by the time I bought the car as CPO. My question is that whether the dealer should have informed me that the car I am buying has issues (I bought the car late Oct, and the lawsuit was out in Sep). Having the car fixed under the class action is an option, but I am not happy buying an expensive car without being informed of such an important issue by the dealer. What are my options? #164 Angelena says: July 20th, 2015 at 9:38 am I have a 2011 A4 Quattro that was purchased used less than a year ago from a Jag dealer here in Buffalo. About a month of driving the car produced the first oil light….. We thought it was strange but thought maybe they forgot to top it off when we bought it. Then we had to put oil in it again about 2 months later. The car is driven to and from my work, 25 miles per day. I put 2 quarts in it and found that a month later it was low again. This time we took it to the dealer who referred us to the Audi dealer. We had part 1 of the fix done which they said would fix it. Anyway, we have had it in for an oil change and had to put oil in it 5-6 times. It is now only driving about 300 miles, maybe less until you need to put more oil in it. We have it in for the second fix today but I am not holding my breath. What can we do here? Less than a year and it's been in for service 2 times for the oil issue with putting oil in it 5-6 times? This is not right… it's not even driven that much. Any ideas? #165 LemonLaw says: July 31st, 2015 at 3:10 pm @Angelina: Who is paying for the repairs? Are you still under an Audi warranty? #166 LemonLaw says: July 31st, 2015 at 3:11 pm @Elnsa: it is not his duty to tell you about the class action, and frankly individual claims yield consumers much better results in a much quicker timeframe. If you are in three or more times for the issue, with invoices to back it up, contact a Lemon Law Attorney. Visit http://www.lemonlaw.com/rid.html to have your claim reviewed and passed along to someone who may be able to help. #167 Dan says: August 25th, 2015 at 2:47 pm Purchased a CPO Audi A4 in Syracuse back in October, oil light has continued to come on every 2k to 3k miles. Dealership has done 3 oil consumption test and continue to say to drive the car and fi the light comes back on and call us. I've called Audi Headquarters to make them aware of the issue, they have called Driver's Village to schedule another oil consumption test and have also said there is no recall on my 2013 A4 because the recall ended for 2012. I wish I would have known that Audi did not correct this issue because I would have went with Lexus or Mercedes instead. #168 step says: September 21st, 2015 at 12:01 am Reading all of these I no longer want to own AudiThey just do commercial on Audi A-3 #169 Mike says: September 21st, 2015 at 8:38 pm I bought my q5 2011 45 days ago with 40000 miles on it, car drives fine up to 42300 miles and low oile light came on, dealer did oil test and now waiting for 630 more miles to go back to see if test will fail to proceed with Pistons replacement ..everything will be covered under warranty but my questions are1: how the Audi dealer sell a car without disclosing such important info and get away with it legally ?2: even if Audi agrees to replace Pistons and rings on the engine , such a big job and not sure if car will ever drive the same after that?3-what should I do now just had the car and going to have this major engine job? Is that legal or fair for a consumer? #170 Adonahue says: September 26th, 2015 at 8:31 am I have 80,000 miles on my 2009 A4 Quattro. I took it to the dealer and said that I have the oil consumption problem referenced in the class action suit. They asked me some questions about the oil history and I didn't have receipts for all the oil I put in so they weren't sure Audi would do anything. I opened the back and showed them a case of oil. They got approval from Audi immediately and did the step 1 fix for no charge. After a month the oil light came on and I took it back and they are replacing the Pistons and rings and loaning me a car. No charge. I found they stand by their car after warranty also. #171 Rick Spohn says: November 19th, 2015 at 12:52 am In July we bought my 17 year-old son a 2008 Audi A4 2.0L with 35,000 miles on it. It's a very nice car. I changed the oil to get a base line since I didn't know when it was last changed. After about 1,000 miles the check oil light came on. So I checked the oil and it was at the minimum mark so I added a quart. After another 1,000 miles the same thing happened. I knew something wasn't right so I started to do some research on the internet. Turns out Audi had numerous problems with oil consumption but no recall. Then I found out there was a class-action lawsuit but only covered 2009 – 2011. I'm not sure why it didn't cover more years. I'm not sure what my options are, but I don't want to sink a lot of money into the car. I mean it's like a new car otherwise. Any suggestions? Thanks. #172 LemonLaw says: November 20th, 2015 at 4:24 pm @Rick: Sadly due to the age, I don't see much recourse. I would speak to a reputable mechanic about your options. #173 Jason says: November 23rd, 2015 at 7:27 pm I'm not sure Audi will ever have a solution to this problem. I have a 2013 Audi A4 2.0T with 60,000Km and it uses one liter / 800 Km's (497 miles)! And, at 58k a front wheel bearing started making all types of noise. This is the first and last Audi I'll ever own. #174 Chrisi Barker says: December 4th, 2015 at 2:51 pm Have 2011 A4 with 107,000. Had testing done 2 years ago and results came back "in range." Have called or documented issues ever since. Took car back today and was told that, yes, there is a problem and the repair cost will be $7K because it is past warranty. I called corporate and received little help. Maybe a negotiation is possible, but seems unlikely. I will update if I receive any good news in the next two days but am ready to pursue other means. If nothing is done, I will NEVER buy another Audi -my favorite car EVER. Hugely disappointed. #175 Jej says: December 10th, 2015 at 10:27 am More than 100k miles now, still consuming oil but stabilized consumption (0.5 qt per 620 miles). Looking at the engine : still running perfectly. #176 pconant says: January 1st, 2016 at 4:34 pm I purchase my 2011 Audi A4 Quatro in Dec. 15, It had approximately 64,000 miles on it. I bought he extended warranty. This was my first Audi, it was in excellent condition mechanically and body condition. I within a month started noticing the audio of my radio and phone would short out. after 20 minutes of driving. This of course was intermittent and would not recreate when mechanic or anyone else around. One day as I am driving the EPC and check engine light came on and the vehicle started shaking. Got the vehicle in for service, said needed new spark plugs and repair wiring due to a rodent building a nest in engine compartment. Said this was minor damage. Had oil changed while there also changed a month previously. But was not able to detect a problem with the radio. About a month later went out to start vehicle and battery dead, would start easily with jump. Then a few days later when my friend was driving the vehicle the radio shorted out, finally someone else witnessed it. He called it a thermal overcurrent (he's an electrician by trade). Came back on after turn off and restart as before. But after work when he started-nothing on the radio display. Took it back so 5 weeks later, I have a new 2015 radio head in my 2011 Audi. Had to send to Germany to interface-cool. Replaced battery and radio and another oil change. Unrelated bear/Audi encounter and I finally got my Audi back for almost a month I notice it seems to be using more oil than normal (600-800 miles is norm for car) and fuel consumption increased. I live very rural so not a lot of gas stations to choose from, but try use 92 as a min and use 5w-40 Liqui Moly as needed. At approximately 89,700 miles the EPC and check engine light came on and the vehicle started to shake as before. Drive it to shop. Dealership that I bought it from a Volkswagen dealer, states 4 random misfire codes and an idle control code coming up. Changed coils in 3 and 4, 4 checks ok when compression tested, but 0 on 3. Have it towed to nearby Audi service. They advise #3 looks like burnt valve have to remove head. Will also perform Crankcase Pressure Regulating Valve per service action. Advised that I read something about an ignition coil recall and could this or the other recall be related to current problems? Audi states yes there was one for your vehicle, but that was under the new vehicle warranty and if not completed before 80,000 miles not covered. I explained that I bought it used and wasn't aware of ignition coil problems. Don't know if current problem is related but feel like car has spent more time parked in a repair shop than in my driveway. Could they be related and what recourse do I have? #177 denise says: January 31st, 2016 at 6:43 pm Bought a certified pre-owned 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 in 2010 and within two weeks the oil light came on. Brought it back for service, thought it was a simple oversight and that it had been "fixed." Little did we know then how that yellow "check oil" light would come to dominate our lives, our use and enjoyment of the car, AND OUR WALLETS. Within the first three years we had the car serviced so many times for excessive oil consumption that we finally took to the internet and found we weren't the only ones with this issue. After 43,000 miles and countless service visits, we demanded that Audi rectify the problem and (because the car was still under warranty), they replaced the pistons and rings at no cost. Fast forward two years, and, at 91,000 miles (just outside of warranty, of course) an ominous "turn off engine immediately and check oil" warning appeared on the dashboard. Brought the car in for service immediately and found that the engine had a leaking intake manifold. Replaced manifold at cost of $1K. One week later, "check engine" light went on. Brought the car back to Audi and this time, the water pump needed replacing (another $1K). A few days later, that ominous "turn off engine immediately and check oil" warning appeared again. Brought the car back YET AGAIN. Service department informed us that they had found metal shavings in the engine pan, indicating that engine parts were grating and the engine was compromised. They told us that we needed an entirely new engine, at a cost of $10,600!! We were livid. Dealer went to Audi North America and they "offered" to pay for half. Now we are stuck with a dead car and the prospect of having to put another $5300 into it (for a total of $7300 since December) to make what is now a "lemon" driveable. Unfortunately, our warranty ran out a few months ago, BUT shouldn't Audi take some ownership of this, as they replaced the pistons and rings on an engine that they knew was faulty? And, did their replacement of the intake manifold parts somehow compromise the engine, resulting in the engine failure? (the timing of the engine failure was just a bit too coincidental.) We bought this car for what we thought was exceptional Audi performance and service. What a joke. Do we have any recourse?!! #178 LemonLaw says: February 4th, 2016 at 3:52 pm @Denise: In the states where we practice, you waited too long. I would contact Audi corporate. #179 M says: February 11th, 2016 at 12:34 am Purchased a brand new 2008 Audi A6. Purchased Audi Care as well as the additional service package after Audi Care ended. Always took the car back to the dealership for its scheduled maintenance and whatever else. Noticed the oil light in August 2015 (49k miles) and bright it in (service due anyway). Went on a family road trip and racked about 1,500 miles. Oil light went off again. Went back to the dealer and was told that older cars burn more oil. At some point I'll probably need to replace valves but for now just top off the oil. The next two times the oil light went off I tipped it off. The last time I did it, I noted the mileage. Oil light went off again after 600 some miles. Brought it back to Audi. Advisor told me they found metal shavings in the oil and that I pretty much need a new engine. Said he would call Audi Corporate to see if they can provide any assistance. I called Corporate myself and logged a claim. Also called another dealership and shared my situation with the Service Director. Said it wasn't anything I did and that I did everything right. He pulled my records and said my maintenance history was impeccable. He's going to contact the dealer where my car is now to see what is going on and will try to help me with Corporatr as well. Not sure what my options are at this point. I didn't really have any issues with the car until now. If I did everything 'right' and it truly is a manufacturer defect of some sort, would Audi own up to it and make things right despite the fact that my car is no longer under warranty? #180 Mitch says: February 23rd, 2016 at 1:16 pm Purchased a 2012 Q5 with an 10/11 or 11/11 production date, about 75000 miles on it. Purchased it from the lessee who purchased it off lease and then sold it directly to me. It now has about 88000 miles on it. The first 10K miles of my ownership, didn't use a drop of oil. Been changing the oil at about 5K miles, first oil change, didn't use any oil at all, maybe a 1/4 of a quart. Second change, pretty much the same. PCV valve went bad so I replaced it. Third oil change, now it is using about a quart in 500 miles or less. Since it is a 2011, apparently the Audi goodwill doesn't apply directly but, if a service manager contacts Audi on my behalf, the service manager can contact audi usa and they may work out a solution. Trouble is, I've got to spend $1000 with them to determine if they are going to try and work with Audi USA which may then be another $5000 give or take. #181 Joann says: April 12th, 2016 at 2:22 pm I purchased a CPO 2010 Audi Q5 in 2012 with about 39,000 miles. I started getting the oil light around 70-75K miles. The dealership said to just bring the car in and have the oil topped off. This happened a couple of times until finally the dealer said they needed to start a paper trail. The car is no longer under the extended warranty. I just dropped the car off again today after only having the oil topped off 2 months ago. My advice is to make sure the dealer creates a service record each and every time you take the car in to get the oil topped off. My next step is to contact Audi HQ. Ironically, the service consultant says the problem has been corrected in the 2014 and later models. Seems to me Audi knows there was a defect and corrected it in future models. Doesn't help much unless they are going to buy back these models that have the problem. #182 Ed says: April 24th, 2016 at 10:48 am I purchased a New Q5 in 2012 but notice that the 2.0 Turbo engine was manufactured in August of 2011. It had the standard 4/50,000 warranty. I am 2000 miles outside of the warranty, with 52,000 on the vehicle… and the engine lost it's oil in a matter of hours and my engine has seized. Used engine will be $4900, with another $1300 in labor to install. Pissed! I know there have been well documented oil consumption issues related to these engines. Any suggestions on where to start? There was a recall related to this issue on '09, '10 and '11 models. Does the fact that my engine was manufactured in 2011 help my case? Rgds, #183 LemonLaw says: April 25th, 2016 at 10:34 am @Ed: In order for us to help, the trend does need to start prior to warranty expiration. #184 Jorge L. says: April 28th, 2016 at 3:53 pm I recently bought an used 2011 Audi Q5 2.0 just below 99K miles on it at the time. The vehicle was fine the first day but once I left the dealer my wife who was driving behind me noticed that there was very visible oil smoke when I accelerated which we found weird. The dealer was in Inwood, NY and we drove home to CT about 70 miles. By the time we arrived the check Engine light had already turned on, I contacted the dealer about it and he was trying to clean his hands from the situation. I drove the car for a few days when I noticed performance issue when accelerating like if the car was breaking down. When taken to a mechanic, he noticed the car was almost dry, all the oil was consumed. The oil change was done and in just a week of driving it. Since then I have to add oil 3 times since I got this car and everyday is a new thing, that i have to change the engine coils, spark plug, oxygen sensor. I wonder that now that I'm over 100K miles I still qualify for the oil consumption recall. #185 Tomas says: May 31st, 2016 at 9:49 pm It's been an old discussion, but I want to say that I have AUDI A6 2009 and it's "consuming" an oil too. About every 2000 miles. The car has only 53 000 miles. Not bad but I'm afraid about what is going to happen to engine in next few years. I don't want my car/engine to "fall apart" while I still have to pay a loan. #186 Orlando Vargas says: June 8th, 2016 at 10:00 pm I am from Puerto Rico an I have an Audi A4 2010 2.0T with oil consumption problem and because of the mileage 112,000 Audi of America wont fix it. I would never buy an Audi again is the worst Auto company in the world. #187 Ryan Hussey says: September 20th, 2016 at 8:12 am I have a 2011 Audi Q5 with 90k miles and we just recently brought the vehicle in because we are burning over a qt of oil every 1000 miles. My warranty was up this year and I was never warned too look out for this problem (was even serviced as recently as June by this same dealer). I am being told I need to buy a new block and pistons and I am no longer under warranty and the class action lawsuit has expired. Audi obviously knows well about this since a service desk rep was able to diagnose the problem in a 5 minute conversation without ever looking at the car. Hard to believe a "luxury" car that is less than 6 years old has a well known and costly engine problem but it is my problem. What are my options? #188 Andrew Corwin says: November 4th, 2016 at 1:24 pm HI,I have a 2010 a4 avant with 97,000 miles and it consumes about a quart every 1000 miles. Today I scheduled an appointment for a oil consumption test and they told me that since the car was over 80k that it would not be covered. I asked if they would do the test at my cost and they said they didn't feel comfortable and I was better off talking to Audi NA. I talked to Audi of NA and they stated that the vin wasn't one of the recalled ones and therefore didn't even have the extended 80k warranty. Let me know what you would recommend or if there is anything I can do. #189 Andrew Corwin says: November 4th, 2016 at 1:24 pm BTW car has always been serviced at Audi by previous owner. #190 Thomas Hislop says: November 23rd, 2016 at 7:03 pm I have a 2011 q7 which I bought from the dealer with 12k miles. The car has been maintained by the dealer only. I have always had to add oil during service intervals. The last service I did was the 65000 mile service and I am about 2000 miles from the next service. During this interval I have already put in 3.5 quarts of oil. I took the car in for the problem while it was under warranty. They told me they found a leak ehich the warranty covered and was supposedly repaired. I don't believe them because I had the same problem reoccur less that a month later. I think this is a problem on all Audi vehicles and a recall should be issued to repair the problem or owners should be give free oils to replace the burning oil. This is very annoying for such an expensive car – to purchase and maintain. #191 Thomas Hislop says: November 23rd, 2016 at 7:09 pm I am now out of warranty is there anything I can do to get this situation rectified without incurring out of pocket expense? #192 LemonLaw says: December 2nd, 2016 at 4:54 pm @Thomas: Certain cars did receive a 80,000 mile warranty extension. Call your dealer to find out if you are applicable. #193 LemonLaw says: December 5th, 2016 at 4:38 pm @Andrew: Sadly if you are not under warranty, Audi would not be held responsible. #194 Mike says: January 28th, 2017 at 12:17 pm If Audi performed the Consumption test #1 under warranty and that failed out of warranty has Audi still covered the issue? all dealings to date with Audi have left me feeling slimey #195 LemonLaw says: January 31st, 2017 at 1:06 pm @Mike: I would certainly bring this up with Audi corporate to see if they are willing to extend a goodwill repair. #196 Kyle says: February 28th, 2017 at 9:41 am I also have an 2006 A4 Quatro 3.2 L V-6. I bought last July with 83000 miles on it. After driving approx. 2500 miles I also needed one quart of oil. I carry a gallon of oil in my trunk to respond every time the light comes on. It is a hassle and now I have 105K miles going to dealership today to see what they can do or say. #197 Shelley says: March 7th, 2017 at 1:01 am Hello, I purchased my Audi A4 private in August 2016. Currently my car has 109,000 miles. I drive within a 10 mile radius every other day or so. I must always put a quart of oil in every two weeks like clock work. Is there anything I can do to get Audi to do anything at all? An Audi dealership in Ohio told me that I would have to pay $8,000 to replace the pistons in the engine to fix the consumption issue. My 2006 BMW had a consumption issue if I went long distances only, so I assumed it was similar and did not think this would be an big issue when I purchased this Audi. #198 Randy says: June 20th, 2017 at 12:37 pm I bought a new Audi Q7 2017 that had around 200 miles on it at the time of purchase. The low oil light came on at 3900 miles. I did not check the oil at the time of purchase, so wasn't sure if it was ever full. Took back to Audi, so they could add oil and that acted like this is not a normal occurrence and told me to monitor it. I just took it back for a 5000 mile check up and it was around 1/4 low on the gauge. This time the are telling me that this is normal for an Audi auto to use oil. My problem is if this normal why wasn't I told before I purchased the vehicle. What action can I take with the dealership that sold me the car? Seems like this should have been disclosed during the sales process.State: OK #199 Frank B says: July 6th, 2017 at 1:33 pm Hi- I bought a 2009 Audi A4 with 38K miles that was Certified Pre-Owned in 2011. It started consuming oil shortly thereafter, and I brought it back to the Audi dealer who did the stage 1 consumption test about 2K miles after I bought it. At that point, they didnt feel it met criteria for piston ring replacement since it was "only" burning about 1 quart of oil ever 1K miles, which they said was "normal". Over the years, I had often mentioned the oil consumption every time I brought the car into Audi for service, but they never fixed it under warranty – claiming it was normal.Now the car has 89K miles on it and the consumption problem has been getting progressively worse – about 1 quart every 300 miles. I found out about the class action law suit through the internet – as I was never informed by Audi of the settlement in 2015. I brought the car back to the Audi dealer and one of the service reps told my wife they fix cars out of warranty all the time and since my car was only slightly out of warranty, they would probably take car of it under the class action settlement. I also spoke to somebody at Audi of America.Well now, they want to only cover a portion of the $6K repair and want me to pay $3K of the bill.I think I need a lawyer. Can you help?State: CT #200 LemonLaw says: July 10th, 2017 at 4:39 pm @Frank: I would contact the attorney general's office in CT to discuss your rights. #201 Saad khan says: August 6th, 2017 at 11:57 pm I bought an Audi 2009 A4 2.0 t Quattro. I noticed it was consuming oil faster than I would think is normal. I bought it June 30, 17. With 83,400 miles. I have a one month warranty from the dealer and I informed him of the issue but he just never got back to me, I'm going to see him tomorrow. I might need some help here. This is my first buy. I told him to do my breaks and rotors and told him abou the oil consumption via text and phone. The text I still have saved. It was before my one month 1,200 mile warranty. He did my breaks, but he never said anything about the oil. Help me please.State: Massachusetts #202 LemonLaw says: August 7th, 2017 at 4:06 pm @Saad: The age would prohibit us from getting involved. I would contact the MA attorney general and look into statute 93a–the lemonaid MA used car law. #203 Nicole Wilson says: August 28th, 2017 at 8:13 pm I have an 2011 A5 with 83000 miles.I had the oil consumption test done Phase 1 & 2 done and everything was fine. It drove perfectly . I went to the Audi dealership on 8-4-2017 and had my oil change done and it seemed fine .I only drive it 4 days a week for 6 miles a day total to and from work.On August 24,I was driving on the Paper turnpike and my check oil like came on and 1 minute later my car stopped working.I had to do and emergency pull over .I got my car towed to the Audi dealership and now they are saying that I need a new engine because I had metal fragments in my engine,the cost for the repair is 13,000 and I can't afford that.Please help I don't know what to doState: Pennsylvania #204 L. Donahue says: September 6th, 2017 at 1:36 pm 2012 Audi Q5 has been burning oil regularly for almost a year now. Was getting about 1000 miles before needing qt., now its down to 5-600 miles. Dealer says experience shows piston play but no recalls etc. I have an extended aftermarket warranty but am being told I'd still have to pay $620 for testing and another $2K to tear engine down to the pistons to prove problem to be considered. What can I do????State: Missouri #205 M. Chair says: September 23rd, 2017 at 1:50 am I've owned my 2011 Avant since day one. Started noticing the oil consumption issues 2-3 yrs ago but always took the dealers word that it was part of normal ware and tear and now I'm at a point where it's about having to fill about a 1qt per 300-500 miles. Any remedies at this point? I'm way beyond any manufacturers warranties and can't afford the thousands of dollars to repair the vehicle.State: CA #206 Maricela montes says: October 24th, 2017 at 8:50 pm I have a 2007 Audi A4. For years out while I was under warranty I was reporting to Audi the issues I am having with my oil. They informed me it was normal and continued to top it off and never documented my visits. My last interaction with Audi was in 2014 after they finally decided to test for oil consumption and tested back positive with problems. My paperwork indicates my car is fine to continue driving and shared the repair would cost my over $5k. I escalated to Audi corporate and got nowhere. I stopped driving the car to avoid making the problem worse. Please let me know if I can get help. I have my paperwork where I'm telling Audi I have an issue.State: California #207 Maricela montes says: October 24th, 2017 at 11:12 pm I have a 2007 Audi A4. For years while I was under warranty I was reporting to Audi the issues I am having with my oil. They informed me it was normal and continued to top it off and never documented my visits. My last interaction with Audi was in 2014 after they finally decided to test for oil consumption and tested back positive with problems. My paperwork indicates my car is fine to continue driving and shared the repair would cost my over $5k. I escalated to Audi corporate and got nowhere. I stopped driving the car to avoid making the problem worse. Please let me know if I can get help. I have my paperwork where I'm telling Audi I have an issue.State: California #208 LemonLaw says: November 6th, 2017 at 3:44 pm @Maricela: I think the age would be an issue, but contact your attorney general for a second opinion. #209 Asheley St.Clair III says: December 16th, 2017 at 3:04 am I have had the vehicle about a month, and the add oil light continues to come on. The more oil I add, the more the oil I seem to be adding. The cost of synthetic oil is pricey, so it is definitely becoming a problem. Should I return the vehicle to the dealership?State: MA #210 Olivia says: March 19th, 2018 at 1:24 pm My boyfriend bought a 2010 A5 a year ago from a deal. He noticed the oil issue about a month after owning it and took it to the Audi dealership in New Orleans. They told him that he needed documents showing his oil purchases to decide whether they could do the test. It's now a year later an over $4000 turbo replacement that took over a month which is likely a result of the oil issue and the dealership finally sees that he has a problem after changing the oil and it burned through it all in 2 days. Now they want him to pay another $1000 for work when it should have been dealt with over a year ago. Is there anything we can do?State: LA #211 marius says: May 22nd, 2018 at 12:21 am I own a 2011 Q5 and 90000 mile burns oils since 70000 miles, dealer said is ok, now that that is out of warranty they ask for 50% of cost. is there anything I can do? maybe to report the problem for others?State: CA #212 John says: July 11th, 2018 at 8:20 am 2014 Q5 with 80k miles, regular maintenance and original owner. Oil consumption test failed, they only want to cover 50% of the repairs, and said if I questioned why they would only cover 50% they would revoke their offer, and I would be liable for all of the repair cost. They were very blunt about this and would not budge. I left that call feeling very helpless.State: WA #213 Heather Sutton says: July 30th, 2018 at 12:21 pm I've been denied good will assistance from Audi. We have a 2012 A4. It is 5.5 years old now. We purchased it when it had 30,000 miles on it. The previous owner had it for 3 months and trade it in. The 5 year warranty expired, we did not buy the extended warranty. (Had we known it was necessary then we would have!) It has over 100,000 miles. We were told they would not cover repair costs because we used 3rd party places to provide us with oil changes. (Valvoline) We first brought it into the dealership for service on the oil consumption back in 2015. The car was only 3 years old. They swapped some small parts and sent us on our way. The issue came back less than 2 years later. Now they are saying it's going to cost almost $6,000 to replace the pistons and rings. After they denied us we also had a 2nd common issue come up with this vehicle. The rear parking brake motor would not disengage. Now looking at almost $7,000 of repairs. Unfortunately we are not able to afford that on a car that is only worth $10,000 and which has consistent issues. We had to trade this vehicle in over the weekend, but I'd be interested in learning of any future legal action being taken against Audi.State: New Hampshire / Indiana #214 Israel Medina says: November 14th, 2018 at 2:14 pm My wife owns an 2012 Q5 (4-Cyl, turbo, 2.0-liter engine) that she bought brand new from an Audi dealership and has had it serviced per Audi recommendation, at an Audi dealership every time. At her 105k service visit, she notified the service adviser that she had been burning a lot of oil; he advised her to keep a log and he would take a look at her next service visit. At 113k her car started sputtering out on the highway (which resulted in an auto accident). She had it towed to the dealer, long story short, they tell her that the car has a broken piston ring with damage to the cylinder wall and will need a new engine costing $11k plus $1k for diagnostics already performed. Her log showed that she went through 14 quarts of oil in 9k miles (7 months). After going back-and-forth with the service manager and Audi of America, they have agreed to do the work for half the cost ($6k). We are at a loss as to what to do! Surely there has to be many others with the same problem? Is anyone aware of another class action? Thanks in advance for any info.State: MD #215 Chris N says: November 28th, 2018 at 4:45 pm Bought my wifes 2012 Audi Q5 with 67k from Northwest Motorsports (horrible experience). Oil light came on at 1200 miles of ownership. Audi dealership said thats normal. They inspected the car otherwise and found it to be in great condition. Since then it has went through 4 quarts in 1300 miles. Took it in for the oil consumption test and it made it 455 miles before the light came on. Audi dealership said the next step was $4-6k repair (pistons and rings). I contacted Audi of America to ask for assistance and they denied due to multiple owners, not purchased from an Audi dealer. First of all we are only the 3rd owner and the 1st owner was leased through Audi for 3 yrs. Second it shouldn't matter where I bought it when its an issue caused by Audi's inferior manufacturing. Overall just a disappointing situation. Not only did Northwest Motorsports sell us a defective car but the automaker is not taking accountability for its mistakes. Audi as a company has failed to live up to standards you would think a "luxury" car maker should have. I will say on a good note that the Audi dealership has been very great to work with. Overall I am regretting trying an Audi, we should've stayed with Lexus.State: WA #216 Andy T says: December 13th, 2018 at 8:52 am I have an 2012 Audi Q5 2.0T with 76k miles, bought in Nov. 2015 as a CPO from an Audi dealership. Long story short, I was just informed that it failed the 2nd part of the Oil Consumption test performed by the Audi dealership in Atlanta, GA, thus confirming it indeed has excessive oil consumption caused by the faulty pistons that were said to be fixed in 2012 Audi 2.0T engines. I have only had it serviced by the same Audi dealership in Atlanta that conducted the oil consumption test (not the same dealership we bought the car from though). The service advisor I am currently working with is going to contact Audi of America to see if they will help out with the repair cost. I do not have very high expectations at all, considering all that I have read thus far about people with the same issue in 2012 Audi vehicles with the 2.0T engine and their experience with Audi of America. It seems like A LOT of people are having the same experience. Any advice on what I can do to help my situation would be greatly appreciated.State: Georgia #217 Connie says: January 12th, 2019 at 11:10 am I ordered a 2018 Q7 from an Audi dealership in Schaumburg in March 2018 and it arrived in May. I am a first time Audi owner. Just last week, my oil light came on with 5,600 miles. I was completely surprised by this since the dealership said my first maintenance would be at 10k. I did bring it in and they said it just needed a quart of oil and would be fine. I've owned several foreign and domestic vehicles in the past and never have I had to add oil to a car at such low miles. I am going to keep a close eye on this situation and track how many times I have to go to the dealership for oil. Thank you all for your postings!State: IL #218 Emilio Raffo says: January 16th, 2019 at 9:38 am Back in 2015, I decided to purchase an Audi model A4 year 2012 version Quattro. Even though I was not going through a good economic momentum, I felt confident choosing this car due to Audi's reputation as well as the fact their engines are made to last. For this reason, I was ok getting in debt for 6 years since I was sure I was investing in a good product. When I made the purchase the car had 35,000 miles. I am a very meticulous person; therefore, I've never missed one oil change, and I have always kept the car maintenance to very high standards, either through the dealer or a mechanic I trust. Moreover, I have always filled up the tank with the highest quality gas. For three consecutive years, I've never had a problem with the car, until recently the oil light turned on, indicating that the engine needed one Qt. of oil to keep functioning. Each Qt. costs between $10-12. The first time the light turned on happened in the same week I had an oil change. This issue was gradually getting worse. The light was going on every 700 miles, then 500, then finally 300. I've been investigating on the internet and noticed these vehicles had a problem in regards to excessively consuming oil. I am also aware there is a recall for models between 2009 and 2011, in which they extended the warranty to 80,000 miles. My vehicle current has 78,000, but unfortunately, it seems like it's not under the recall guidelines.As recommended by Audi USA through a phone call of my own, I went to an authorized dealer (The Collection in Miami, FL) in order to do a consumption test, get a report and hopefully open a case. They also requested me to show all the records in regards to my car maintenance and oil change. This happened on July 23rd. The person who helped me suggested me to do an oil and filter change first, which had a cost of USD90. They mentioned they were going to call Audi USA in order to expose my case and see if Audi was willing to move forward with a consumption test. That same afternoon the advisor called me back and informs me that unfortunately, Audi cannot move forward with any sort of repair since my car is 2012 and out of the recall guidelines. However, I am a persistent person and I back to the dealer and told the advisor that I spoke again with Audi USA, and they gave me a case number. The advisor now told me that the cost for the oil consumption test is two payments of $360.00. (total $720.00) because I need to test the car first and they will charge me the other $360.00 when I come back with the oil light turned on.Honestly speaking this is a very frustrating situation. Therefore, my balance in the car is higher than the car value in the market. I'm upside down with this car. In order to fix this issue, the estimated cost is between USD 6,000 – 6,500.I really can't afford this repair and not willing to pay $720.00 for a test if I don't have the guarantee that Audi commits to repair the engine. My wife and I are expecting our first child and this is our biggest financial priority. Therefore, I kindly ask Audi USA to reconsider my request and help me to fix this issue. Although for Audi to say no is the easy way out, for me this is a huge headache that I will have to deal with for the next 5 years, hoping that this problem doesn't progress even more.I kindly ask you to put yourselves in my shoes. I'm still astonished by the fact I am facing this problem considering my car has less than 80,000 and it's an Audi.Thank you in advance. I look forward to hearing from you.State: Florida #219 James Sexton says: March 27th, 2019 at 3:38 pm I just purchased a 2011 Audi A4 2.0T. I found out that it has never had the pistons and rings replaced for this oil consumption issue, and it has been noticeably burning oil. Is it too late as it is now 2019?State: MA Leave a Reply Name* Email* State *Indicates required field. Your Comment « Previous Post Next Post » FREE Case Review Why Use The Lemon Law? Is My Car a Lemon? Client Testimonials Meet Our Lemon Lawyers Vehicles With Known Problems Car Complaint Index Lemon Law Home Page Select Your State: Select State California Connecticut Delaware Maryland Massachusetts Michigan New Hampshire New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Tennessee Washington, D.C. West Virginia Wisconsin Wyoming Other Are YOUDriving a Lemon? Find out in SECONDS Get Lemon Law Help Now! 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Office Locations: Ambler, PA Pittsburgh, PA Bucks County, PA Wilmington DE Cherry Hill, NJ New York, NY Buffalo, NY Lakewood, OH San Francisco, CA San Diego, CA Los Angeles, CA Common Problems by Manufacturer: Acura, Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Ford, Honda, Hyundai, Jeep, Kia, Land Rover, Lexus, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Mini, Nissan, Porsche, Subaru, Suzuki, Volkswagen, Volvo Disclaimer | Site Map | Privacy PolicyCopyright, Kimmel & Silverman,© 1991-2019.20 Report Follow Asked by ukman May 10, 2012 at 09:43 PM about the 2001 Audi A6 2.7T quattro Sedan AWD Question type: Maintenance & Repair I have an 2001 Audi 2.7T. It has been leaking oil. I had the oil gasket replaced/fixed 2 months ago. The car was working fine but then the check oil light came on after driving for 3 weeks. The folks at the garage told me that turbo's eat up gas. They filled up the oil pan and asked me to bring the car back after 2 weeks - I noticed that that there was fresh oil drips on my garage floor. I did and the oil was low.  The garage did some looking around and told me that there is an internal and external leak in the Right turbo and the oil was dripping on the catalytic converter.  Their recommendation is to replace both turbos.   The cost is $6000.   If I don't replace the turbo, then the converter maybe drenched with oil which will kill the converter.My question to you all is:  Is it an issue?  if so how big of an issue? Can I drive the car and for how long?  Is the cost quoted reasonable?   I also need to have the oxygen sensors and  the exhaust gas temp sensor replaced.   The secondary air kombi valve bank had showed up last time sensor were checked but not this time.   The total cost is close to $8000 to fix.   Is it worth spending the money or should I get a new car? 8 Answers Report LarchmereImports answered 6 years ago First I have to assume the problem you are most concerned about is the oil loss in your engine. You did not note how many miles were traveled and how much oil was lost this would be the most important information to have. The first step is to perform an oil consumption test on the vehicle. Drips of oil on the floor will not account for any notable oil loss. If you were to have leaked a quart of oil from your car it would leave a mark were you park it the size of your car. I dought this is the case and you seem to be talking about more than one quart of oil. Check the oil after the car has been sitting all night and fill it to the full line. Exactly the full line! Write down the mileage and then drive the car until it is a quart low and note how many miles you have traveled. Then you will have an idea of how big of an oil BURNING problem you have. It is common for turbo charges to develope oil leaks in the oil seals and oil can leak into the exhaust or intake side of the turbo. Oil leaked into the intake side gets burned thru the engine combustion chambers, oil leaked into the exhast side gets burned in the catalytic converters. Neither are good long term. As to the value of the car if you like the car it is worth repairing if you are ready for a new car then do not fix it. You will only recover your costs of repair if you if the vehicle continues to serve you. 3 people found this helpful. 3 Mark helpful 3,755 Report Hector answered 6 years ago It is a good advice not to repair if you are ready for a new car, but before you replace the turbos or sell your car you must check the ventilation valve of the engine. Most audi/VW engines have this valve in the valve cover or on a hose connected to the valve cover. Its called oil separator, it separates the vapors produced in the crankcase from the oil and oil vapor and directs them to the intake. When the diahpgram breaks oil gets into the intake and consumes it.It is normal for turbocharged engines to enter oil because of the wear on some parts but depending on the engine and make it can't be more than 1 quarter X 1000km.hope this helps you 0 Mark helpful 165 Report Samuel answered 6 years ago have they cheaked the turbo for any play becasue the bearings go in side the turbo that lets oil thought and will drain oil out of the engine it sucks it out or the piston ring have gone might be good to do comprestion test . hope this helps 1 people found this helpful. 1 Mark helpful 3,325 Report garageman answered 6 years ago One thing that no one has hit on is the reason for the turbos to fail.The reason is the oil feed lines get coked or carboned up restricting the oil flow to the turbos.This is from not changing the oil and filter at roper intervals or by not using the correct oils.Use the correct oil and be certain that the level is correct.VW and Audi both do not believe that oil consumption is excessive until it's a quart every 800 miles or less.The turbos to be replaced on this car,require that the engine and transmission be pulled as a unit,it's a very labor. Intensive job,so between the parts and labor what you got quoted would not be out of the realm of reality.Audi,s are expensive vehicles to keep going as you are finding out.Now what you need to keep in mind is at this point ,can you replace this car for 6 k? Possibly,but the reality of it is do you want to sink that amount of money into a car that has other possibility of high dollar repairs( transmission)I would say cut your losses and find a newer car. 1 people found this helpful. 1 Mark helpful 215 Report Zachary answered 6 years ago Audi 2.7T is one oil-hungry motor - period. Why do you think Audi only produced it for five years? Don't get me wrong, it's actually an awesome engine...but the reality of owning this motor is those twin turbos gives the car incredible performance, all at the cost of insane oil consumption. You have to live with this fact of 2.7T ownership. Audi even says 'normal' oil consumption is one quart every 800-1000 miles! 1 people found this helpful. 1 Mark helpful 3,755 Report Hector answered 6 years ago That is very true, oil consumption is normal on engines but this varies on engine to engine that is an oil hungry engine. 0 Mark helpful 124,985 Report tenspeed answered 6 years ago Check in at Audiworld.com and Audizine.com for tips on the care and feeding of your A6. 1 people found this helpful. 1 Mark helpful 10 Report Chris_5144 answered 2 years ago It is never a good idea to put more money into the car than it is worth 1 people found this helpful. 1 Mark helpful Your Answer: Upload Photo Photo (optional) Related Questions Audi turbo problems 8 Answers I have an 2001 Audi 2.7T. It has been leaking oil. I had the oil gasket replaced/fixed 2 months ago. The car was working fine but then the check oil light came on after driving for 3 weeks. 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ZIP: Shortcuts Audi A6 Questions All Questions Ask a Question Audi A6 Reviews Audi A6 For Sale Search Audi A6 Questions Search Audi A6 Questions Audi A6 Experts #1 Deathjam4 Reputation 330 #2 JRKPerformax Reputation 290 #3 tenspeed Reputation 280 View All Related Models For Sale Used Audi A4 316 Great Deals out of 10,461 listings starting at $899 Used Audi A8 40 Great Deals out of 2,007 listings starting at $1,500 Used BMW 5 Series 468 Great Deals out of 20,639 listings starting at $1,500 Used Mercedes-Benz E-Class 574 Great Deals out of 22,320 listings starting at $1,500 Used Audi S6 21 Great Deals out of 365 listings starting at $6,000 Used BMW 3 Series 840 Great Deals out of 25,772 listings starting at $1,800 Used Audi S4 30 Great Deals out of 1,281 listings starting at $3,999 Used Mercedes-Benz C-Class 736 Great Deals out of 26,490 listings starting at $799 Used BMW 7 Series 167 Great Deals out of 4,693 listings starting at $2,190 Used Mercedes-Benz S-Class 224 Great Deals out of 8,318 listings starting at $1,500 Used Cars for Sale 2019 Audi A6 For Sale 3,782 listings starting at $49,197 2018 Audi A6 For Sale 24 Great Deals out of 921 listings starting at $25,927 2017 Audi A6 For Sale 12 Great Deals out of 198 listings starting at $24,990 2016 Audi A6 For Sale 37 Great Deals out of 1,118 listings starting at $14,230 2015 Audi A6 For Sale 17 Great Deals out of 329 listings starting at $15,995 Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. 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0_ In that same vein and price category, I've looked at early Audi TTs and SLK230/320 Mercedes. The TT doesn't appeal to me–too ugly–and driving the SLK . I think you're on point — the IMS bearing .

can you clean a audi oil separator

Source: https://www.sites.google.com/site/lightbulbie54/Automobiles-Motorcycles/oil-separator-audi

Posted by: garzareque1949.blogspot.com

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